Changing one-piece oil pan gasket in-car
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Couple things Tannon. Check the clearance, might need to pull both the engine mount cross bolts and use a 2X4 under the pan, jack the engine up and have enough room to put a 2X4 between the mount and backet to give you a couple inches to clear the K member. Might also have to drop the idler arm bolt to allow it to be pulled down (push the wheels around, get it to drop out of the way. Last thing, make sure the bolt holes of the pan itself are dimpled from the engine side downward so the gasket doesn't get squished at the bolt holes again and leak the same way as before. I also like to take the front and rear lips and do some firm taps on the lip so it tightens more against the front and rear seals, a small bead at the front lip on both sides, pea size in the corners, and a very thin smear along each rail. Cleanliness is next to godliness as usual, get rid of that oil film to ensure good seal. And hey, if the oil pump is old, replace it with a new high volume pump and check the screen for cleanliness. Oh, and both the starter and the two support brackets from the transmission to the engine may also need to be removed for clearance.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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I believe that the exhaust Y-pipe has to drop and steering link has to be disconnected at one end and swung out of the way. You may want to go by the service manual procedures and torques. The first one took me a while.
Okay. The plan is to use the engine hoist to do the lifting from above. The distributor, fan shroud, and starter will be pulled, the car has headers, don't know if they'll be in the way to start with or not. They're old Doug Thorley long tube headers, so we'll see. May have to disconnect them at the collectors down by the transmission if nothing else. He's going to bring the car by tomorrow night so that it can cool off by Saturday morning. Fortunately we'll be working in the climate-controlled shop so even if it's 110° outside we'll be in relative comfort.
I do have the FSM for the car (fortunately for him having the same model year as mine) so we'll see what we need to do there.
I do have the FSM for the car (fortunately for him having the same model year as mine) so we'll see what we need to do there.
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The header may go through and around the tierod drag link, but the headers themselves should not be in the way of removal so shouldn't have to disconnect anything there. Most of the fun is around getting the front of the pan between the crank and the K member clear. Do that and you will be fine. Yep, forgot about the fan shroud, but at least you don't have to pull a radiator, drian any antifreeze, anything like that.
Well, it's done. Had to go out to get a balljoint separator to drop the center link from the pitman and idler arms, and had a few other issues in addition to the pan to deal with, but in-car is possible even if it's a PITA. My friend that owns the car did most of the work, I basically handed him tools so that he didn't have to get out from under the car repeatedly.
Unfortunately while work progressed I realized that the HVAC in the shop wasn't blowing as cold as it should have been, wouldn't really come down below 85°. The primary coils in the various loops were froze up but the rest of the air handler was not terribly cold. So now that has to be fixed... *sigh*
Unfortunately while work progressed I realized that the HVAC in the shop wasn't blowing as cold as it should have been, wouldn't really come down below 85°. The primary coils in the various loops were froze up but the rest of the air handler was not terribly cold. So now that has to be fixed... *sigh*
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