Couple things Tannon. Check the clearance, might need to pull both the engine mount cross bolts and use a 2X4 under the pan, jack the engine up and have enough room to put a 2X4 between the mount and backet to give you a couple inches to clear the K member. Might also have to drop the idler arm bolt to allow it to be pulled down (push the wheels around, get it to drop out of the way. Last thing, make sure the bolt holes of the pan itself are dimpled from the engine side downward so the gasket doesn't get squished at the bolt holes again and leak the same way as before. I also like to take the front and rear lips and do some firm taps on the lip so it tightens more against the front and rear seals, a small bead at the front lip on both sides, pea size in the corners, and a very thin smear along each rail. Cleanliness is next to godliness as usual, get rid of that oil film to ensure good seal. And hey, if the oil pump is old, replace it with a new high volume pump and check the screen for cleanliness. Oh, and both the starter and the two support brackets from the transmission to the engine may also need to be removed for clearance.