[95chryslercirrus]

Hey all! Topic title says it all. First time it happened, it was raining hard and was really wet on the roads. I checked EGR function with engine running using a vacuum gauge and the engine died immediately. Also tested vacuum solenoid and it activates vacuum to EGR correctly. Cleared code, and code 32 came back when it was raining heavily again. I don't notice any drivability problems during any weather. No noticeable water in engine bay when this happens. Also, I haven't disconnected the battery, but code 12 comes up too when this happens. If I reset it by pulling the ECU fuse, it will go away within the normal ignition cycles and come back on the rainy day with the code 32. Checked electrical connections, car came with new Interstate battery when I bought it. Any suggestions?

 

[Stratuscaster]

I could be wrong, but 12 will come up when the battery is disconnected - and pulling a fuse to pull power to the ECU is pretty much disconnecting the battery.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

So, you have no driveability issue at all, but CEL comes on with code 32, despite reset?

Code 32 is 'no change in mixture when EGR signal is applied'.

If I understand correctly, you activated the ECR valve stem and it caused it to run rough/stall. That suggests that the stem was not sticking open and that the orifice is not clogged.

How exactly did you test the vacuum solenoid? Are you talking about the black transducer, or the manifold upstream from it? Did you test anything electrically? If the solenoid has an electrical problem and won't actuate the transducer when the ECM tells it to, that would trip a code 32, and apparently would still pass the tests that you did.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

I could be wrong, but 12 will come up when the battery is disconnected - and pulling a fuse to pull power to the ECU is pretty much disconnecting the battery.

You are exactly correct. And that's what's weird. When I got the car, it had code 12 on it. So I reset it, and it went away within the specifed ignition cycles, I think it's 10? Anyhow, code 12 was gone. I haven't touched the battery, all the connections are tight, charging system works, and I get code 12 and 32 together when this happens. I'm tired of the quirky problems with cars.

So, you have no driveability issue at all, but CEL comes on with code 32, despite reset?

Code 32 is 'no change in mixture when EGR signal is applied'.

If I understand correctly, you activated the ECR valve stem and it caused it to run rough/stall. That suggests that the stem was not sticking open and that the orifice is not clogged.

How exactly did you test the vacuum solenoid? Are you talking about the black transducer, or the manifold upstream from it? Did you test anything electrically? If the solenoid has an electrical problem and won't actuate the transducer when the ECM tells it to, that would trip a code 32, and apparently would still pass the tests that you did.

None whatsoever. And yes, I've reset it twice, and it comes back when it rains heavily again.

Yes, I used a hand vacuum pump.

I tested the solenoid (transdeucer) by activating it electrically. I jumped it with 12 volts power off the car. I heard it click, and I had a vacuum pump holding vacuum on the closed line, it would release when I actuated it. How does the car "see" that there is no change in the EGR? It doesn't appear to have an EGR sensor. I'm not sure if this means anything, it appears that all the EGR parts have recently been replaced. The OEM Chrysler sticker/part numbers look realy new on them, I think someone has tried chasing this problem before and ended up just getting rid off the car. I had to do a lot of work when I bought it. Needed new TCM, brakes, and master cylinder.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

The car uses the O2 sensor to sense changes in the air/fuel mixture, from EGR activation and many other inputs.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

How many O2 sensors does this car have? It's the 2.5 V6m btw. I did have a code when I got the car for code 51, O2 sensor detected a lean condition, but when I cleared the codes the first time, it never came back.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Not sure about that engine. Most modern V-6 engines have one upstream sensor on each exhaust manifold and either one or two sensors downstream from the catcon, depending on whether it's a single or dual exhaust.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

It's single exhaust, so I could have as much as 4. 2 for each manifold, a downstream and upstream. Hmmm. Geez I really hope not lol. I'll have to look I guess.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

No, the 'upstream' ones ARE the ones in the manifolds.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

Oh, okay. I gotcha, my bad.

 

[valiant67]

Code 12 is often set any time a new code is, that just seems to be the Chrysler logic used.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

Oh okay. Well that makes me feel better. My TCM was messed up when I got the car, I wouldn't be supposed to need an new ECM. Oh well. Thanks for than info

 

[95chryslercirrus]

I had the code 32 pop up again, this time when it was REALLY cold outside (20°F). Still no drivability issues. Checked connections to O2 sensors, everything looks good. Anything else I could possibly look at? Thanks!

 

[ImperialCrown]

The EGR valve and solenoid may pass all of your actuation tests, but the PCM's monitor test may still fail it if it feels that the EGR calibration or flow characteristics are different than what the PCM test would consider a 'good' passing EGR system.
Is there any label or stamping on the EGR itself? If someone has replaced it, it may be 'generic' and will not pass the PCM monitor test for your specific application.
You would want the correct EGR for the vehicle installed to get a passing EGR.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

The EGR valve and solenoid may pass all of your actuation tests, but the PCM's monitor test may still fail it if it feels that the EGR calibration or flow characteristics are different than what the PCM test would consider a 'good' passing EGR system.
Is there any label or stamping on the EGR itself? If someone has replaced it, it may be 'generic' and will not pass the PCM monitor test for your specific application.
You would want the correct EGR for the vehicle installed to get a passing EGR.

The solenoid setup is genuine, has a sticker with the Daimler Chrysler symbol on it, P/N: 04287 646AD. The EGR itself has no markings, except a year marking for 2007, and an X inside a circle. What markings would make it be genuine? I would guess they didn't try for a sticker because of the heat involved of the EGR.

 

[valiant67]

The EGR valve and transducer are generally sold as a set.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

The EGR valve and transducer are generally sold as a set.

Thanks! That is very good to know, so it's likely genuine Chrysler.




I thought I would like to tell everyone here that the problem has gotten worse. The check engine light is coming on about 3 times a day, depending on how often I drive it. It also does it only after it's warmed up, and is doing it in all conditions of the cold, not just during wet weather. No drivability problems. 26 MPG. I hate "ghost" problems.

 

[valiant67]

I don't know much about the 2.5 (other than it has similarities to the old 3.0 Mitsubishi motor) but some Chrysler motor designs were subject to tube or port blockage for the EGR depending on the type of EGR setup.

I assume the car is the 1995 in your user name so you probably won't get a more specific OBDII code which could narrow down the problem more. The old Chrysler code 32 would correspond to more than one OBDII code like insufficient flow that would help more with diagnostics.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

On these engines, EGR is not activated when the engine is cold, or at idle. So that's why you get no faults when the engine is cold.If it drives fine when warm and the code is stored, chances are that the EGR valve is not opening, or that the passage under the EGR valve stem is blocked, so no recirculation is taking place. This won't harm the engine, but emissions will be higher, and if you have a vehicle inspection in your state, it will likely fail.I'd buy a gasket for the EGR valve, remove it and ream out the passage under it with a thin metal probe or tiny drill bit, and spray it with carb cleaner. Also inspect the exhaust tube for the EGR to see if it has rotted and disconnected or is leaking.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

I don't have anything to lose, I will give it a shot. Take it off and look. Also, if vacuum is applied to the EGR at idle and the car immediately stalls, could the passages still be partially blocked?