[Bob Lincoln]

No, that would indicate that the passage is clear.

 

[ImperialCrown]

4287646AD is the correct part for your application. A 2007 build date could place its installation anytime after that. There was a TSB # 18-26-95 for an improved (non-kinking) EGR vacuum harness from the brake booster that could cause code 32. Too much or too little EGR flow can cause code 32.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

How would I be able to determine that it's been corrected according to the TSB? Took off EGR this morning. Inspected the tubing, passages, and the EGR itself. It's pretty clean in there. No blockages. I did discover that at one point my coolant cap slobbered a little, and dripped onto the EGR. Could that cause a problem?

 

[ImperialCrown]

The upper hose could also leak if the aluminum outlet pipe got 'crusty' oxides where the radiator hose pushed onto it. There should be no external leaks at the radiator cap. It's cheap enough that I would replace it if this is the case.
The short EGR pipe fitting and short rubber hose to the base of the black, plastic transducer carries exhaust gas pressure to indicate the amount of exhaust back-pressure to the transducer. I have seen plugged cats push more exhaust through this pipe than it should and melt hoses and transducers.
The transducer halves do come apart and the inside diaphragm can be inspected for water, rust and tears. We know that the transducer solenoid works electrically, but it can fail inside here as well.
As long as the vacuum hose from the booster shows no kinking and delivers good vacuum to the solenoid, you should be OK.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

The upper hose could also leak if the aluminum outlet pipe got 'crusty' oxides where the radiator hose pushed onto it. There should be no external leaks at the radiator cap. It's cheap enough that I would replace it if this is the case.
The short EGR pipe fitting and short rubber hose to the base of the black, plastic transducer carries exhaust gas pressure to indicate the amount of exhaust back-pressure to the transducer. I have seen plugged cats push more exhaust through this pipe than it should and melt hoses and transducers.
The transducer halves do come apart and the inside diaphragm can be inspected for water, rust and tears. We know that the transducer solenoid works electrically, but it can fail inside here as well.
As long as the vacuum hose from the booster shows no kinking and delivers good vacuum to the solenoid, you should be OK.

I plan on it, it's $6. Just wondering if it could cause the EGR not to work, I know coolant can be hell on electrical connections and other mechanical parts.

There's no sign of melting on the backpressure hose. The hose going from the solenoid to the EGR itself was sorta loose fitting, and could be easily twisted and pulled off the EGR with little effort. Thinking of finding a tighter fitting vacuum line, just for assurance. \

I popped apart the transducer and it looks alright on the diaphragm side. It holds vacuum well, just as a check to make sure the diaphragm is working and plable. The plastic surrounding the hole in the middle of the solenoid underside is slightly melted, but it isn't ugly. However, isn't the vacuum input on the solenoid from the brake booster line supposed to hold vacuum until the solenoid is electrically activated? I applied vacuum to it and it doesn't hold any vacuum, but manages to suck air in from somewhere.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

Update: I thought for a minute and applied vacuum to the solenoid while I activated it, just in case the car has it always activated when on. It held vacuum better, but lost it slowly over 5 seconds. When/when isn't this solenoid supposed to hold vacuum, and is it supposed to slow leak?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

It should hold vacuum, so you may have a transducer diaphragm leak. They often tear and cause this failure mode.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

It should hold vacuum, so you may have a transducer diaphragm leak. They often tear and cause this failure mode.

Is there anyway to take it apart? I didn't see any way. Since they are sold together, I would rather not pay $200 dealer price. So, anyone know a good website to get OEM genuine Chrysler parts?

 

[Bob Lincoln]

You can open the transducer to check the vacuum diaphragm, it snaps together with plastic tangs. But they can break off, so this time of year, best to bring it inside and let it warm up for several hours. It's an orange rubber diaphragm, very thin, and mine had 3 small tears in it, and lots of black water poured out of it.

And these days you can buy a replacement EGR assembly for about $50, not $200. Aftermarket is fine, I'd use rockauto.com or Advance Auto Parts.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

I looked at the orange diaphragm. It was intact, pliable, and held vacuum. The actual solenoid didn't hold vacuum. Mine was also full if black residue, but it smelled strong of exhaust fumes from the back feed. Plus for me, I didn't break any of the tabs. The engine had been run, so it was already warm. Is the solenoid itself supposed to hold vacuum all the way when activated? I snapped the idle up to 2,500 rpm and the EGR opened, but barely.

 

[ImperialCrown]

The EGR stem won't move much when the engine is revved freely. Only under load (like power-braking) will it move much more. The PCM determines the real EGR test.
I would go to a salvage yard and pick up a used transducer (if possible) for a swap or comparison. The transducer failed more often than the valve, but both are always sold together as a matched set.
I believe that the PCM is being truthful in setting the EGR fault code.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

The EGR stem will move about 1/8" to 1/4" inch when revved at warm idle.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

Yea, the reason for setting the code seems genuine. I will attempt to find a local junkyard that may have one, but most of them within 100 miles are import wrecking. And 1/8 inch was about right, it didn't move much. But it closed while the idle was high righ after it opened, I would have expected it to stay open.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

It won't stay open unless the engine is under load. You have to rev and let go, rev and let go, to see the motion of the EGR.I strongly recommend against a junkyard part. Go new - $67 for your car at Advance Auto.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

Sounds good! Both EGR and Transducer? And they do not have to be genuine Chrysler? I'll plan on getting them and clearing the computer, hope it doesn't come back. Anything I should check/do while I have it all apart to make sure all goes smoothly?

 

[ImperialCrown]

Follow the instruction sheet. Make sure that the gasket surfaces on the front head and EGR tube are clean and use the fresh gaskets and bolts that (should) come in the kit.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

If the kit doesnt include any, I'll be sure to buy them. Thanks guys! I'll post back here if there is a problem or the code comes back. It may be a bit, I'll have to wait till I have more money available.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

The EGR valve does usually come with the gasket. Haven't seen them supply new bolts, but that's not a show-stopper.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

The EGR valve does usually come with the gasket. Haven't seen them supply new bolts, but that's not a show-stopper.

Yeah, I can always buy them seperate. I cannot use Advance Auto. It refused to let me purchase anything and see prices, because they do not service my state. Know any other good stores? I do not want to use Autozone or O'Reilly for parts again, they tend to use the same crappy manufaturers and rebuilders.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

NAPA is good. And rockauto.com