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20 Posts
Every had the fusible link under the hood of your car fry itself??
Scenario: 70' Chrysler c body w/ 383. Came to dead stop with no power the other day. I noticed a bit of smoke coming from under the hood. Turns out the fusible link was totally cooked/melted, apparently caused by a short somewhere. I have not found any immediate evidence anywhere near or on the positive batt cable of shorting out, also I pulled apart and checked the bulkhead connector for any burn marks, charred blades, nastiness, etc. and it's all clean as whistle. No charred or frayed wiring either. I am aware of the situation with the Chryco ammeter issue and how all the power goes thru this one gauge. I'm strongly leaning towards upgrading the wiring scheme to address that, however for now I need to know if a new fusible link can be spliced into the original batt. cable? The only credible way I can start chasing any shorts is to get pwr back up again so I can use a test light/multimeter. So I'll need to either repair/splice the original positive battery cable or replace the entire cable with a new one.
Would sure like to know if anyone else has gone through this and if so what was the outcome.
Scenario: 70' Chrysler c body w/ 383. Came to dead stop with no power the other day. I noticed a bit of smoke coming from under the hood. Turns out the fusible link was totally cooked/melted, apparently caused by a short somewhere. I have not found any immediate evidence anywhere near or on the positive batt cable of shorting out, also I pulled apart and checked the bulkhead connector for any burn marks, charred blades, nastiness, etc. and it's all clean as whistle. No charred or frayed wiring either. I am aware of the situation with the Chryco ammeter issue and how all the power goes thru this one gauge. I'm strongly leaning towards upgrading the wiring scheme to address that, however for now I need to know if a new fusible link can be spliced into the original batt. cable? The only credible way I can start chasing any shorts is to get pwr back up again so I can use a test light/multimeter. So I'll need to either repair/splice the original positive battery cable or replace the entire cable with a new one.
Would sure like to know if anyone else has gone through this and if so what was the outcome.