cranks no spark
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Just as a possibility, it could be the interconnect at the PCM instead of the sensor. I have had two seasons of my car stalling out at low speed, and also crank but no start. Codes indicated loss of 5V and loss of crank sensor signal, which are adjacent pins in my PCM. Unplugging and plugging it solves it every time. I cleaned the contacts with a contact cleaner spray, and the problem went away for months. Just recently back. Sometimes people replace the sensor over and over in this situation, when all along it was the computer connector that had oxidized contacts.
The crank sensor in the 3.3 is very sensitive to the gap being set correctly. If the crank sensor is removed or the transmission removed the gap must be reset via a paper senor that stick to the sensor and is wiped away when the engine is rotated. Obviously there is more to check than the crank sensor, but it all starts there.
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Exactly my experience. So when you check the sensors, also check the interconnects.
i don't know if you believe in God or not but if you own or work on a dodge you should. i was scratching my head trying to figure out why my van would not start and God told me to open my manual to the right page and low and behold there was the procedure for crank no start testing the crank and cam sensor all i needed was my test light. so where is that he told me to look in the back of your van and there it was plain as day. i thanked him and followed the procedure in the manual and figured i had a bad crank sensor, figured i would wait until payday and buy a new one. God told me to look on top of the transmission and there was the female end of the plug and a quick search found the other end tangled up in the other wires. plugged it in and it started and ran smooth. boy, i did a victory dance and thanked God profusely. then i heard a noise in the belt area so i took the belt off and found the idler pulley is loose and i need to tighten down the motor mount. it still won't shift right but i have a few thoughts and have eliminated a few things. this is why i bought the van to tinker on and keep me busy and out of trouble.
I once used a thin flat piece of copper cut down to size then wrapped around and layered once over the battery terminal to take up slack rather than replacing the battery cable ends, worked out well for years, could probably use another type alloy as well, maybe even steel but then corrosion might become a concern.
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Not a Dodge issue. If the clamps have been replaced or damaged, it's a previous owner's fault.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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At 27 years old, I would replace them with generic battery terminals.
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did that it is not ideal but it works. now for the next problem. the previous owner worked on the van or had someone work on it, and didn't put in all the bolts for the front motor mounts, the ones that bolt into the block, because the last bolt dropped out while driving the others haven't been in for a while. i wonder what size they are. another trip to the wrecking yard.
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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23,671 Posts
Metric M8 x 1.25 or 1.50. Various lengths. Hardness scale: 9.8:
![Motor vehicle Wheel Organism Mode of transport Font]()
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