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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Folks,

I hope I can get this figured out as soon as possible because I'm trying to get the old girl to pass emissions in Ontario, and I leave NS for ON in just a few days. Last time she failed miserably albeit she runs great. So I figured I'd just bite the bullet and buy new engine management parts. So here's what I've replaced.
MAP sensor, TPS, Injector and Regulator, EGR valve, IAC valve and an O2 sensor.

Here's the problems that are present. Starts, but dies right away unless you're on the throttle. Around 2000-2200 RPM the car bucks a lot, but this tends to solve itself after a bit of driving in that range, smooths right out. The engine cuts out at just over 4000 RPM, almost like there's a rev limiter. Idle is a bit high, usually around 1200-1500 RPM. Other than that there aren't any issues present. Here are the codes I'm getting.
13
33
35
37
51

I'm going to switch the MAP sensor to the old one and see if there is any different, and I'm going to double check all the vacuum lines.

I appreciate any help that can be given! I'd love to be able to keep this car with me for a long time, it's too bad that it wasn't a year older, then it would have been exempt from the drive clean tests and I would have already had it for a year in Ontario!

Chris
 

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The 33, 35, 37 codes are indicating there is a short associated with the AC, which is affecting everything else from the looks of it (it is tied in with the idle control circuit/speed).
the 13 is the idle circuit/vacuum line problem.

They all seem to be related problem and sound like it is the place to look first, so a slight wiring short somewhere prpobably, or dirty connection. Here is the codes, and if you read them, they will make sense.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Daytona is an 1988, 2.5 NA 119000

dana44 said:
The 33, 35, 37 codes are indicating there is a short associated with the AC, which is affecting everything else from the looks of it (it is tied in with the idle control circuit/speed).
the 13 is the idle circuit/vacuum line problem.

They all seem to be related problem and sound like it is the place to look first, so a slight wiring short somewhere prpobably, or dirty connection. Here is the codes, and if you read them, they will make sense.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html
Thanks, the car has no A/C, and I've actually had those codes for a long time, at least I've had one or two codes associated with the A/C.
 

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AC associated or not, the codes point to something non-AC you can check, think it was the radiator fan. Look into this part first, it ties into the electronics of the idle circuit stuff and is messing everything up. There is mention of a vacuum line, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, so there was a wire disconnected from one of the relay's for the cooling system, fan now turns on when I disconnect the coolant sensor, I also eliminated a number of codes. Now all I have are 13, 33 and 37. Looks like I'm still looking at a short though for the A/C. Perhaps I should swap the relay all together?
 

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Worth a try. Have you looked at what the codes are and try to figure out how they all relate to each other, look at items associated with each other and the way she is running?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well if you're saying the IAC and A/C stuff is related, then the melted casings leading to the connector might explain that. Code 13 is now resolved, the new MAP sensor is faulty. Put the old one back on, the car runs much better and the check engine light goes out. Starts right up without any need to throttle. Hopefully getting these wires taped up will get rid of any other gremlins running about. Or at least rid of the codes
 

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I would say so. Hope this all helps, might breathe a little more life into the little jewel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
dana44 said:
I would say so. Hope this all helps, might breathe a little more life into the little jewel.
It is helping! I'm really glad you mentioned looking at the IAC, that cleared codes 33 and 35. 37 reappeared so I'll have a look at that, but everything else seems to be running well now.
 

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Good deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So most all is good. She seems to run great, idles fine, but my fuel econ is absolutely terrible. Less than 300km before the light is on (typically I used to be able to do 450-500). As well, when I'm just maintaining a speed between 100 and and 120km/h (RPM's are in the 2300-2500 mark), the car shudders and bucks quite noticeably. Sometimes it will clear itself up and I will actually have to let off the gas pedal a bit because the car begins to speed up.

Checked the codes again,
33 - I'm not sure where to look for this one, I don't have A/C. But if it has something to do with WOT, can somebody give me a hint where this solenoid may be?
37 - I feel like this one could be because the car was originally an auto, and now it's not...
51 - I'm going to be unhappy with Rockauto if this new O2 sensor is faulty as well. However, perhaps my old MAP sensor (the new one was bad, caused poor running and check engine light/codes) is good enough not to trip a code, but bad enough to cause the car to run rich?

Thanks!
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I checked over the wiring, found that the ground strap on the firewall wasnt attached to the intake. So I reattached that, cleaned up the one at the motor mount and the one that goes onto the drivers side of the block. Are there any others I should look for, and how possible is it that this is the cause of my issues!?
 

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I don't know if there are any others you should look for or not, but I do know that broken grounds can cause a multitude of problems. How's it running now that you fixed all of those?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I haven't been able to drive it because I ruptured a brake line. However it still starts, idles and revs just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Brakes all fixed up, got to run it. Honestly the best I have ever felt it run. Power was smooth and responsive, usually there's this slight hesitation when you get heavy on the gas. I can't really tell if the bucking is still there, but when I let off the gas it bucks a bit, however that could just be deacceleration. No codes besides the 37 which seems to me as though it's a part of the transmission swap
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Code 51 came back. I bought a new MAP sensor, but didn't clear the codes. Will do that tomorrow to see. Fuel Econ seems to be about 50kms per mark on the fuel gauge. Oich
 

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Check the ground connection at the driver's side rear corner of the block. That's the sensor ground. The wire in the ring tongue terminal will often fray or break, might be intermittent.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Bob, I will have a look at that
 

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Discussion Starter #19
As well as checking the ground, I found out the O2 sensor had yet to be replaced, so I replaced it. Off to Ontario now... Wish me luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I got back to Ontario. The Daytona averaged about 29MPG at 130km/h. Not terribly impressive to me, It has done better. How it runs, not too bad if you're accelerating, but if you're trying to keep a constant speed it bucks and just does not want to run right. I can see the black smoke rolling out behind, so it has me wondering if my injector is leaking. Dad replaced it, perhaps he missed an o-ring or something. I had also bought a throttle body repair kit, which was basically just a bunch of gaskets, would it do me any good to replace the gaskets? As far as I can tell, nothing is leaking except perhaps the gasket before the butterfly. I'm going to try and get it to pass emissions tomorrow... I will more than likely loose sleep over that. Until then! Thanks
 
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