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· Super Moderator
1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
17,578 Posts
If it is leaving red, oily spots on the ground underneath, you have a leak and will want to make sure that the solenoid pack is what's leaking first. The cooler hoses above the solenoid pack can have loose clamps and appear to be a sol pack leaking when it isn't.
It may be worth cleaning the area of oil before determining where the leak is. Solvent or degreaser followed by a rinse on a warm engine should do the trick. A short drive to dry the area and start a small leak again to find it is a good start to leak diagnosis. Because of the tight underhood access, some things may have to come out of the way before you (or they) can get down in there.
The only way the transaxle will fail is if it is allowed to run low on fluid. Use ATF+4 fluid only. A fresh fluid and filter change is good maintenance if that hasn't been done recently. Resealing the pan will also help rule that out as a leak source.
If the front tires are wearing unevenly, make sure that there are no worn parts first and then get an alignment. Any 'clunking' or 'popping' noises over bumps or on turns?
Many auto parts stores will install the battery for free if it is easy to get at, which I believe that yours is. Carry jumper cables with you until you get that fixed. Batteries are usually 'pro-rated', so any battery coverage is only partial and is not a full warranty.

In this view, the rectangular-shaped block is the solenoid pack (single connector and 3 retainer bolts). The 2 hose fittings above it are for the ATF cooler. It is resting on the oil pan:
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