Allpar Forums banner
1 - 1 of 1 Posts

Super Moderator
33,515 Posts
AC low pressure line replacement

Thanks to member Bob Lincoln, we now know that when your valve for adding more “Freon” begins to leak refrigerant that we owners of PT Cruiser have only the choice to replace the entire line from the condenser (in front of radiator) to the connector atop the pass side inner fender. Thankfully the cost of the pipe from aftermarket suppliers is approx $40.

Here’s my notes from just completing the replacement:

>To access the lower connection to the condenser you have to remove the plastic splash shield just inside the pass front tire. (#10MM, 9MM sockets)

>The condenser line connector, top and bottom is 13MM. Only a wrench fits in the tight area of the condenser. (This is the first connection I installed.)

>To fit the upper line connector you’ll need to supply a green “O” ring that fits the receiving tube next to the treaded bolt. This is NOT supplied with your new part. Only the lower “O” ring came with my part.

>To make this upper connection easier I undid the tubes connector just behind the connector itself. This allows you to move the aluminum pipes to fit the new upper line connection. (A must for me.)

>Replace the lower splash shield.

*You’ll need to vacuum the system after the repair before adding new R134.


  1. I would suggest that while the splash shield is off that you peek at the thickness of the inner disc brake pad. This pad wears way, way more than all the rest of the brake pads and will save you $ from having to replace the rotor due to damages.
    ( :) don’t ask how I know this :))

  2. You may also wish to inspect the lower motor mount as well. The front rubber circle section (where the bolt goes thru) often breaks/separates. (These are dirt cheap nowadays.)

    I have some pictures of this replacement and if you contact me thru PM we can let you see the items described above.

    Best Regards,

    Mister 2 Tim
    SupercharZed ToyZ RacZing
    A Toyota Race Team since 1987
Actually, my suggestion was just to replace the O-ring(s) and the Schrader valve core, which would be about $5, and not the line. Not sure if that alone would have stopped your leak.
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.