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BACK IN MAY 2012 I POSTED A TOPIC ,SINCE THEN I HAD A STROKE AND FORGOT MY PW ETC ,SO I REJOINED AND STILL HAVE THIS MYSTERY CAR THAT I'VE TAKEN TO MECHANIC AFTER MECHANIC IN OUR AREA TO TRY TO FIX.. NO ONE CAN.
THE CAR HAS SIT IN DRIVE SINCE MY STROKE BUT IM BETTER NOW AND ID LOVE TO FIX IT AND DRIVE!
IVE SPENT A FORTUNE ON IT.

I RECEIVED AN ANSWER FROM SOMEONE HERE THAT SAID I MIGHT FIND "CODES TO FIX THE CAR " AND INSTRUCTIONS ON WHAT TO DO TO GET THEM ,BEST I REMEMBER WAS DISCONNECT BATTERY AND TURN KEY, SADLY AFTER THAT MY MEMORY FAILS ME.

IF THE PERSON WHO OFFERED ME THE CODES AND WHERE TO FIND THEM HERE WOULD RESPOND AS WELL AS ANYONE ELSE WHO MIGHT HAVE AN IDEA HOW TO PROCEED ID SURE APPRECIATE IT ..

IM GOING TO COPY AND PASTE MY ORIGINAL LETTER FROM MAY 2012

THANKS TO ALL WHO RESPOND WITH A CLUE TO THIS MYSTERY!














May 18, 2012 at 01:35 pm

I'm a senior citizen with a car mystery.I'm not knowledgeable about cars and it seems no mechanics in my rural area are either. I've taken it to 3 mechanics and all are puzzled about this.

I'm the 2nd owner of a 1989 Dodge Aires ,2.2 liter engine, automatic transmission, front wheel drive, 4 door.( I bought it from a lady in my church) and know it was maintained while she owned it.
The car drove WONDERFUL for about 3 years after I bought it then this started happening...

my problem:


after driving about 5 miles the red oil light goes on... yet all fluids are FILLED! It begins to act like its out of gas and has big troubles if you are on a hill even a small one.
after driving about 10-20 miles it begins to act like its completely out of gas and finally loses power Here's the kicker...you can pull the car over, park and restart it and it will drive perfectly for 10 -20 miles.... like something is resetting then messing up again in 10 -20 miles .
Sometimes it will restart quickly,but s sometimes if you put it in neutral after stopping and apply the gas it will operate OK ...but as soon as you put it in gear it stops again. No one in our area has an older style diagnostic to put it on to test ...so its hit or miss !

Repairs I've made to try to solve this:

1.new electric fuel pump( in fact I've had 2 new ones put on )

2.new fuel filter

3.new transmission filter

4. new catyletic converter

5.fuel tank emptied and checked for rust in gas tank

6. new computer system ( I'm not sure I believe this but mechanic said he did and took new off when it did not help this problem)

7.a reset something ( mechanic said he fixed that?)

I'm Clueless what to try next? so are these mechanics.. in fact one kept it from december til april and it's still doing the same thing.

I LOVE LOVE this car ! It drives great if you don't go over 10 miles LOL

I'm on a fixed income and I'm tired of saving to fix it and throwing more money into a car that is a mystery!

Can someone please suggest what I can do next besides get a new car.. sadly that's not an option)

I want to thank all who respond to my mystery in advance!
 

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Sorry to hear about your problem but happy to hear you are recovering from your stroke. A common problem that can be hard to diagnose is the Hall Effect or ignition module located under the distributor cap. Do you know if it has been replaced? Also is the car running now, it has to have been running to check codes. Unhooking the battery clears the codes. Lets take it one step, at a time.

Thanks
Randy
 

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Moving this to General Tech Support and Help...
 

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I agree with GLHS60, this sounds a lot like the Hall. It's easy enough to replace that you don't need to take it to a mechanic, either. For reference, the distributor is the lump in the middle of the front of the engine with the wires coming out of the top of it. There are two small bolts that hold the black plastic distributor shield on, and then two Phillips-head screws which hold the distributor cap on (the piece of plastic underneath the shield with the wires coming out of it). Then pull straight up on the distributor rotor (the piece in the middle underneath the cap, it might be wise to replace this while you're at it, since the rotor wears out very quickly on these engines and can leave you stranded), lift up the black plastic bit underneath (which is the Hall itself), unplug the wire connector, and then simply reverse the procedure to reinstall. In a nutshell, the Hall tells the engine where it is in its rotation cycle. This allows the engine computer to open the fuel injector and trigger the ignition system at the right time.
The oil issue could be a variety of things, from wiring to an issue with the engine itself. It should be checked out with a pressure gauge to verify that the engine is actually putting out the proper oil pressure as soon as possible.
By the way, don't think that, because the Hall is a repair, you can't do it yourself. I find a lot of people, women especially, tend to be intimidated by auto repairs, even if they're very easy repairs to do, because it's "man work". There is absolutely no reason that a woman can't be just as good a mechanic as a man. The hardest parts of auto repair are diagnosis and learning the terminology. The actual repair could be conceptually as simple as plugging in an electric light and turning a couple of screws. So give it a shot yourself, you never know, this could be the start of a new hobby!
 
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