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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went to replace the door hinge pins and bushings in the Turbo Z this weekend, and was met with a nasty surprise...

I got the hinge pins and bushings out, noticing they were slightly different than the new ones (the Dorman kit for our cars), then dropped the new ones in, to find they are horrendously loose. The bushings that were in the car (as best as I can tell) are these:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0162920

They are the lower bushings for certain GM vehicles, and are about as large of a bushing as you can get. Now for the really bad part:

I had to put the door back on with the old parts, because the new bushings obviously weren't going to fit, and I needed to get the car back together. I noticed on removal and installation that the bushings were loose on the bottom hinge. After re-installation, I lifted the door to try and see where there was looseness in the system. The bottom bushings can be seen noticeably moving in the hinge...

I'm now at a loss as to what I should do. The GM bushings are the largest I've found, and they won't fit in the bottom hinge without moving around, and their ID is slightly too large for the proper pins. The best substitute I've found is a set for certain Jeeps: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-7451-38422.aspx?make=Jeep&parttype=Door%20Hinge%20Pin%20and%20Bushing%20Kit

The pin is (I believe) the same diameter as the correct pins, and the bushing has a larger OD than the correct ones, but I believe I will still have about 20-30 thousandths slop around the bushings, and more than that on the bottom... can these be shimmed somehow?

Otherwise, am I looking at needing new body-side hinges? I just hope someone hasn't reamed out the door side of the hinge like they did the body side...

Passenger side doesn't sag, and has the proper chrysler pins and bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've looked a bit more, and unfortunately can't find any appropriately sized bushings. Are shims worth a try, or should I be looking to repair the enlarged hole through welding, or is hinge replacement my only option?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The worn part is the body side of the hinge, which can be removed, though I'd have to wait around until the snow melts at the junkyards to get a replacement... I suppose that is the best option though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There are some splines toward the head of the pin - they are driven into one side of the hinge so that they don't fall out. Many also have a small clip in the middle as shown:


Thanks for digging up this thread, you reminded me that I need to finally fix this. I put a new striker bolt in last spring, which hid the issue for a while, allowing the door to close easily. I still need to fix the root problem when I get the car out for the season again...
 
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