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This past weekend, I decided to tackle replacing the hinge pins & bushings on my Lebaron Coupe to fix the slightly sagging driver's door issue. I wished I'd thought to bring my camera and take pictures of the whole process. The '89 FSM doesn't even have intructions for this process.

I decided it would be easier to do by unbolting the hinge plates where they attatch to the body, and then drive out the pins and the bushings with the door lying on the gound, with no load on the hinges. Here is a rundown of what I did:

Remove door trim panel (unplugging the courtesy lamp and speaker connector)
Remove the sound deadener/foam pad
Unplug everything inside the door: mirror, window motor, lock motor, door handle switch, illuminated keyhole light, etc.
Remove wiring from inside door, fishing it out through opening in the front of door.
At this point, I did 2 things to help me out later on: Remove the outboard mirror from the door, and temporarily re-connect window motor and lower the glass into the door.
Support door from below at the front and the rear. I used a jackstand at the rear and the car's jack at the front, protecting the finish with shop rags.
Remove from driver's side front fender: splash shield, 2 lower bolts (the ones between the wheel and the door), and the one inner bolt that'shalfway up the door jamb area (accessible from the wheel side). You can now pull out slightly on the fender, giving you easier access to the hinge bolts.
Remove 2 bolts from each hinge (the rearmost bolt and one of the forward bolts).
Ask a helper to steady the door as you remove the last 2 bolts. I had to steady the door as well with my other hand as I removed the very last bolt.
With 2 people, lift door and lay down flat on the ground with the exterior side down.

At this point, a few observations: The door was not as heavy as I expected. Lebaron coupe doors are probably the heaviest EEK doors out there. ('92 and '93 coupes would probably be even heavier than mine b/c they have side-impact beams), but with 2 people it was no difficulty. Having the window down gave us the convenience of using the upper frame as a handle, and I felt protected the glass for the remainder of the operation. Also, I had removed the mirror to prevent it from bearing the weight of the door as it lay flat.

I laid the door down on the grass where I was sure it was free of rocks. I didn't mind if it got a few grass stains. If you don't have a grassy area to lay it down, put down a few blankets or some padding.

Moving on:

Drive out the hinge pins. This was easier than I thought. The retaining tabs just sheared off the old pins, so I didn't have to worry about keeping them compressed.
Tap the old bushings out of the hinge brackets. These came out fairly easily too, despite having to use a few weird angles with the punch.
Insert the new bushings. I applied a light coating of chassis grease. These went in easily as well.
(I took the brackets and mounted them to a vise for stability when replacing the bushings, but probably could've been done just as easily resting on a block of wood out where you are working.)
Reassemble the hinges with the new pins. Again, I applied a light coating of grease. These went in easily with just a few taps.

Now the tough part: using jackstands and 2 helpers, hold the door in place while you get 2 bolts started in each hinge. this was tricky.
Once you get the 2 bolts started, tighten them down just enough to hold the door, but not too tight.
Adjust the position of the door. This was the hardest part, it took me about 20 tries to get it right. Feed the wiring back into the door so you can close it all the way. Practice opening and closing the door. Most likely it will need to be raised at the front or the rear or both. Keep loosening the bolts, lifting it, tightening the bolts, and then opening and closing until you get the right fit and smooth action. This can be difficult, because not only is the vertical position of the door adjustable, it also slides forward and back a bit.
When you achieve the proper position, give the bolts their final tightening and install the third bolt for each hinge.
Move the fender back into position and start all the bolts back in. adjust the position of the fender so that it matches the contour and does not contact the door. You can use peices of cardboard as shims to ensure an even gap. Once you have the right fit, tighten up the bolts.
Reinstall all the components onto the door that you removed.

A few final thoughts:

If I had to do it again, I think I would have tried to do it without unbolting the hinges. The whole part about adjusting the door was a real pain. You would still have to remove everything and completely take the door off, but by leaving the hinge bolts untouched, you start out with the hinges in their factory positions. Those hinge plates leave a lot of room for adjustment. It might be harder to get the pins in and out while trying to hold the door in place, but I think it's still easier overall. You may have to do some adjusting anyways, but at least you'll be starting off a lot closer.

My old hinge pins were only slightly worn. I probably could've acheived the same improved fit by just adjusting the door. That would've saved a lot of work now, but I would've had to do this in a few years anyway. Hopefully I'll get many more years of service out of this car.
 

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I've never replaced the hinge pins, but had to remove a door on the 94 LeBaron because it sagged (actually the sheet metal split around the hinge). I just drove the pins out (I ended up using an odd assortment of socket extensions, long screwdrivers and other things to tap the pins out) and removed the door after disconnecting all the wiring. Once I had the door welded, I put the pins back in and the alignment was perfect. No adjustments to worry about.
 

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I did my Aries the down-&-dirty way. Knocked the hinge pins out (without unbolting the hinges from anything), drilled the holes to 5/16", installed gr.8 hardened bolts for hinge pins. That was 3yrs ago on a daily driver. They're still sag-free.
 
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when replacing the pins/bushings on the shadow I found it much easier to drive in the new pins after I drilled a small hole/indentation into the pin head, keeps the punch from walking around and damaging sheet metal. went from 5 min of cursing and repositioning the punch to 30 seconds of sledge hammer blows and seating the pin properly.
 

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Mopar starship captain
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I've replaced the driver's door hinge pins twice on my LeBaron Coupe. With a helper and a floor jack or two, I drove out the old hinge pins without removing the hinge from the hinge plate. I like gearhead's idea for hinge pin replacement better. I used the Help! kit twice and the current pin is already worn out. But then on the other hand, I was replacing pins every five years, so it's actually due. I've had the car ten years. However, since the car is very clearly near the end of its life, I probably won't do a third hinge pin replacement.
 
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the Q/C of the Dorman/help! brand pins does vary greatly from my experiance, first ones were very soft and easy to drill the guide hole into
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I bought these from an ebay seller because I couldn't get any of the auto parts stores to confirm that they would fit a Lebaron coupe (apparently they use different ones than the rest of the cars).

The ones I replaced must be the originals, they were painted with the hinges. I didn't really start having noticeable sagging issues until this year. That's pretty good I guess, since the car is 18 years old.

I originally thought I would do it without unbolting the hinges, but when I gauged how difficult it would be to get a punch on the pins, I really didn't like the angle. I did a few test taps and the pin didn't move at all, and the punch slipped around a lot. These coupe doors have a lot of contouring to them on the upper and lower edges which effectively prevents a clear shot at those pins. At best you get a 45* angle and with the head being rounded, it seemed like a lot of room for error. (maybe the convertible doors are better for getting at the upper pin). If I'd known the hinge plates were going to have that much wiggle room, though, I would've given it a second shot.

I'm the type who likes to approach repairs as "cleanly" as possible. I like to have as much clutter out of the way as possible when it comes to working on those buried components so that I can get a secure grip on those fasteners and good leverage on the tool. Plus it makes me feel better knowing that I didn't have to force things and possibly damage them in the process. I will go through 50 extra small steps to be able to have all the room I can get to work on the most difficult part. My dad is the exact opposite. He will try to get through a project removing as few extra bolts, brackets, hoses, wires etc as possible. In the process, he'll end up in some ungodly contortion of his hands trying to grip the slightest edge of an obscured bolt or not. Not for me.
 
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quick online search @ rock auto says the baron's use the same pin/bushings kit as the other's

Dorman/Help! 38388
 

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Mopar starship captain
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the Q/C of the Dorman/help! brand pins does vary greatly from my experiance, first ones were very soft and easy to drill the guide hole into
 

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The Contrarian
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I would avoid unbolting the hinges because you are just inviting a long struggle with recentering the doors afterwards.
 
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I would avoid unbolting the hinges because you are just inviting a long struggle with recentering the doors afterwards.

Very true, but sometimes they get enough slop in them that rebuilding the hinges wont remove it. so you have to over adjust the door to sit higher than it would. Have had to do that to my D-side front door. even if adjusted to sit properly it would rub the top of the door behind it, completely unbolted (removed fender first !) cleaned up everything and tried to make it as even as possible, ran out of space in the hinge bolt holes to do it, just fudged it to make it look ok and not be scraping the door jamb and rear door
 
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