Just purchased a 1988 Omni w/automatic on the cheap as it is hemorrhaging transmission fluid from the drivers side drive shaft where it meets the transmission/differential. I plan to replace the offending seal. I have started tearing this down to remove the drive shaft, but the Haynes manual I'm using is pretty vague. It appears that I still need to separate the ball joint, and turn down the sway bar. The manual doesn't mention separating the tie rod, but it appears that this needs done also. If there is someone out there who has gone through this before and has any tips to help me avoid extra drama I would greatly appreciate it.
Drive shaft to transmission/differential seal
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Joined
·
21,504 Posts
You can leave the tie rod end and strut connected to the knuckle, just swing and prop the knuckle out of the way.
The driveshaft can be popped out of the transaxle by a sharp jerk of a prybar against the case and inner CV machined ridge (there is an internal spring clip to get past the side gear). Avoid pulling on the shaft or sharply articulating the CV joints just in case the joint might separate and come apart inside the rubber boot.
A prybar can remove the old seal and the new one can carefully be hammered straight in with an arbor.
Haynes isn't the best manual for the finer details. They are vague and general and sometimes misleading with what you are working on. A factory service manual is best. Most Chrysler FWD (K cars, E cars and minivans) in this era shared many of the same driveline attributes.
The main, local library may have older automobile manual material in the backroom or they might be able to locate a library that has the information that you seek. A Mitchell, Motor or Chilton manual may even show better detail (pictures and procedures) than Haynes.
Some libraries may have a subscription to Alldata that you can photocopy the pages that you need. Sometimes an exploded view tells you everything that you need to know.
The driveshaft can be popped out of the transaxle by a sharp jerk of a prybar against the case and inner CV machined ridge (there is an internal spring clip to get past the side gear). Avoid pulling on the shaft or sharply articulating the CV joints just in case the joint might separate and come apart inside the rubber boot.
A prybar can remove the old seal and the new one can carefully be hammered straight in with an arbor.
Haynes isn't the best manual for the finer details. They are vague and general and sometimes misleading with what you are working on. A factory service manual is best. Most Chrysler FWD (K cars, E cars and minivans) in this era shared many of the same driveline attributes.
The main, local library may have older automobile manual material in the backroom or they might be able to locate a library that has the information that you seek. A Mitchell, Motor or Chilton manual may even show better detail (pictures and procedures) than Haynes.
Some libraries may have a subscription to Alldata that you can photocopy the pages that you need. Sometimes an exploded view tells you everything that you need to know.
Joined
·
21,504 Posts
Up until 1982, the differential cover had to be removed and the circlips pinched with snapring pliers to release the inner axle joint from the transaxle.
After 1982, the circlips were 'spring-loaded' and not a positive locking retainer. A moderate 'tug' with a large flatblade screwdriver or prybar would get them past the side gear splines.
After 1982, the circlips were 'spring-loaded' and not a positive locking retainer. A moderate 'tug' with a large flatblade screwdriver or prybar would get them past the side gear splines.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!