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Discussion Starter #1
My wife's '01 Battle Wagon PT has a problem with the drs power door lock on her power door. To unlock the door you have to push the button from the outside AND key it at the same time. On the inside you can't pull the knob up when it's in the down position.

I'm unsure on what to replace from the keylock, actuator assemble, latch?

Would appreciate some advice or direction from any who has already solved this problem.

Tim
Mr2Tim
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I think I would start by taking off inner door panel and checking all pivot points for dirt/rust or other bindings wires broke loose etc and then silicone lube after all it most likely sits outside a bit like most cars and it's over 11 years a little lube in the right places never hurts
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response Jim.

I did pop off the door panel. I found what I found is a lock actuator mal-fuction.

The actuator actually works when powered, but, the actuator cannot be manually operated, that is, the upper push-pull knob cannot be moved.

Removing the actuator was easy and the door performs perfectly (manualy )with the actuator removed.

Finding this part however has proven the most difficult objective in many decades of my mechanical adventures.

The many many salvage yard's I've contacted say NOTHING on this car can be swapped with other PT Cruisers which I find to be incredibly impossible..

As an example, all 3 of the other actuators can be purchased for $17 (rockauto.com) but not the drivers door?? This is crazy!!

I'm sure there's some goofy reason why this is, but so far I have nothing to ad but some lunatic on CL who wanted $85 for a used actuator from a different year car.

Will post more news as I progress in this repair.

Tim (aka Mr2Tim)
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A Toyota Race Team since 1986
 

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Tim, I'm in the same boat, I bought my daughter a low miles 2001 PT and the drivers power door lock does not work. Been searching all over, pretty much the same story as you've experienced. Did you ever find a "reasonably price" replacement?
 

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Now that your have the drivers door actuator out you may be able to determine why it won't allow the locking knob to move. Maybe it's a problem with the actuator or the door latch itself. Do both the locking knob and the door latch work properly with the actuator removed ? How about the key lock ?
Since the removed actuator works electrically then it may just be a matter of cleaning and lubricating the actuator assembly. If that doesn't do it then it may just pay to buy an actuator for one of the other doors just to compare that to yours. It may simply be a matter of a different mounting bracket or some other small part. Maybe the replacement could either be modified to work or parts swapped between the two actuators to get yours working properly again. If a new one is only $17. it would be worth it just to find out.
 

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The lock actuator motor gears are plastic that can break and jam the linkage. This happened to vehicles other than the PT as well. The drivers door (LF) lock actuator may be part of the door latch and riveted into place. This may make it serviced by replacement only.
Look at a passenger door latch to see the differences.
 

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I'm really surprised that this "issue" hasn't popped up before. Haven't had a chance yet, but I'm planning on pulling the drivers door panel on my daughters PT and see what can be done. I'm just very surprised that the auto-parts stores don't seem to carry this one, and when I've asked, nobody can give me a reasonable answer???
 

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Discussion Starter #10
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This is the drivers door lock actuator you cannot buy at any (repeat any) aftermarket suppliers website. Not sure what or why Chrsyler's folks did or why these insanities happen but this drs door lock is not like the pass side nor the rears.

I'd like to know if any other owners actuators look like this one?

I've confirmed the actuator had a internal failure of some sort and gave off the symptoms noted in my initial post. Being that it's riveted together I have yet to open the defect.

Tim
 

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Tim,

Thanks for posting the photo, at least now I know what I'm dealing with. I am still surprised that Chrysler made the drivers side unique, and the the aftermarket segment has not mfg. one to sell. Very odd....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ImperialCrown said:
Sorry, the link that I posted wasn't the one I thought that I did. Try this: http://www.jcwhitney.com/2001-2008-chrysler-pt-cruiser/door-lock-actuator/p2025510d369y2001-2008j1.jcwx
It looks like it comes integral with the latch assembly. The drivers door may be different than the others due to the addition of the VTSS switch.
If the actuator is jammed or it 'whizzes' when actuated, the internal plastic gears have stripped.
Not sure about what a VTSS switch is but as my photo shows the electrical pigtail is two push-pull connectors and not the integral connector shown in you link you forwarded.

None the less Crown thanks for the JCW lead!!
I decided to buy the their generic (universal) actuator # 1JA JCWRB315301KP. It's a small 2 wire actuator for $14 and has a 2 screw attachment that I hope I can "make work" in my car's drivers door.

I'll pass along a DIY installation write up w pictures if this cheap alternative works for me.

Thanks for everyone's interest.

Happi Holidaze guys!!

Tim (Mr2Tim)
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Discussion Starter #14
This is a comparison picture with the above referenced JC Whitney $14 drivers door lock actuator on the left. Pretty close in size and of course a 2 wire (only) unit.

Unable to install till after the holidaze pass. Will post more installation info then.

Best Wishes

Tim (Mr2Tim)
------------------------------------

89 SC Mr2 Race Prepared/Street Licensed
88 SC Mr2 Street car
87 NA Mr2 Hardtop Drag Car
87 NA Mr2 Street Car Sunroof
87 V6 Fiero AutoX-street
95 Camaro Z-28 Race/Street
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83 Celica Autocross Prepped
70 Chevy Nova 396/325HP-Drag
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quote name="mr2tim" post="11311698" time="1356193251"]

This is a comparison picture with the above referenced JC Whitney $14 drivers door lock actuator on the left. Pretty close in size and of course a 2 wire (only) unit.

Unable to install till after the holidaze pass. Will post more installation info then.

Best Wishes

Tim (Mr2Tim)
------------------------------------

89 SC Mr2 Race Prepared/Street Licensed
88 SC Mr2 Street car
87 NA Mr2 Hardtop Drag Car
87 NA Mr2 Street Car Sunroof
87 V6 Fiero AutoX-street
95 Camaro Z-28 Race/Street
73 Triumph Spitfire-Rally
83 Celica Autocross Prepped
70 Chevy Nova 396/325HP-Drag
64 Olds F-85 Drag Car
 
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