[a_bartle]

My daughter's driver side power door lock will NOT lock. It will unlock however, so I figured I needed to replace the actuator (all the rest of the door locks are working properly). I purchased one from a salvage yard, but last night when I installed it, I ended up with the same results. So I'm assuming I must have a wiring issue, or perhaps even the RKEM (remote keyless entry module)? I'm not really sure how do diagnose the problem or what to test. I did get my electrical tester out and found that when I press the "unlock" button on the door, I have power on the terminal connected to the pink with black stripe wire. I could not get anything else to give me a reading.

I'd really appreciate any help with this problem, I need direction as to what/how to test for the problem. I have some photos I'd like to post that might help, but I've not figured out how to do that yet...

 

[ImperialCrown]

I would start at the 2-wire 'key-in' switch inside the steering column at the key cylinder. It is stuck on or damaged somehow? The steering column shroud halves separate after removing the 3 torx screws in the bottom half.
The key cylinder may need removal in order to remove the bottom half.
If the module sees an ignition key in the key cylinder, it' logic won't allow you to mistakenly lock your keys in the car by refusing to lock the drivers door.

 

[a_bartle]

Thanks for the tip, much appreciated! I didn't even know there was a "key in" switch, and that really makes sense (not that the lock actuator couldn't be bad, but it looks like new, and the car only has 27,000 miles on it). What does the switch look like, and if I need to have it replaced, is this a "dealer only" part?

 

[ImperialCrown]

Some aftermarket keys also don't go in deep enough to trip the switch.
Does she have more than one key for the vehicle? Is it an OEM-style key and has it been tried?

 

[a_bartle]

Yes, I'm using the OEM key (at lease I think it is, recently purchased the car used from an older women, who I know lost a lot of keys, but had them replaced at her dealership). I've also been looking in the shop repair manual, but I've not seen reference to the sensor you've pointed out; do you know what specific name it has? Is this sensor part of the ignition switch itself, or is it something that attaches to the ignition switch?

Hey, again, I really appreciate your help!
Art

 

[djsamuel]

If the sensor is bad, and is giving a false reading that the key is still in; wouldn't the chime go off when the door is open even if the keys are removed from the ignition?

 

[ImperialCrown]

I do believe that Doug is correct. Does the chime sound with the drivers door open, even with the ignition key out?
The key-in switch is part of the ignition switch. A plastic stem sticks out of the center where the cylinder goes and is pushed in when the key is inserted. The Lt blue wire is then grounded to body.
If there is no ground on that Lt blue wire circuit, then the drivers door lock should lock electrically.

 

[a_bartle]

I "think" the chime does chime, but I'll have to confirm that tonight. If the chime is working, then does that mean the key-in sensor is ok? Should I be tearing into the steering column anyway just to check things out? Does anyone know a good way to check the actuator itself? Is it the same as the one on the passenger side (could I plug it into that circuit to test it)?

 

[ImperialCrown]

The chime should sound with the key in and the drivers door open. It should stop chiming as the key is removed. It should not chime with the key out.
If the lock actuator works in one direction, it should work in the other. It simply reverses direction from a switched +/- polarity that comes from the RKE module.

 

[a_bartle]

Ok, so my "first" asignment is to check if and how the chimes are working. I'll do that this afternoon and report back. If the chimes are working correctly, then perhaps I've got a bad RKE module? Is there any way to check the RKE?

The shop manual just keeps referring to using the "DRB III" scan tool to "magically" find all the problems. That's great if I had access to one, but I'd like to try and avoid a trip to the dealer and pay "highway robbery" prices to get this thing fixed.

 

[a_bartle]

Update:

I've tested the lock actuator itself and it's working fine, so I believe the remote keyless entry module is bad. I pulled it the other day, but I was wondering if there is any way to "test" that module to be sure it's not working correctly. I hate to keep "throwing" parts at this problem, wish I could be sure it's bad. If nothing else, can a Chrysler dealership test it?

 

[a_bartle]

I was also wondering, in my search for a replacement RKEM, I've noticed a lot of modules that are "listed" for a 2001 will have the last digit different. For example, my part # is P05293040AH, but I've seen them as P05293040AI or P05293040AJ for example, and still states used for a 2001 PT. One guy said that as Chrysler made improvements, the last two digits would change, and those numbers would "supersede" the older numbers. Can anyone confirm that??

 

[Bob Lincoln]

The last two digits are apparently the revision, and not part of the part number itself.

 

[ImperialCrown]

The dealer wouldn't be able to test the module 'standalone', they would need the car with it to have it plugged in.
If the -040 part of the module number is the same, it is the same part. The last letter changes to reflect revisions or updates as stated. Usually the later the 'letter' is in the alphabet, the more improved the part.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Last two letters, in this case. There are 8 numbers in Chrysler's PN system, and here there are two letters following. So rev AJ has gone through A to Z changes, minus the ambiguous exceptions, and wrapped around to J again.

 

[a_bartle]

So I'd be better off buying one with a higher number in the alphabet then (better because they've hopefully made improvements). I just wanted to be sure it would still work with my system and the key fob.

I did call a dealer's parts department. He "thought" that they could check the module (again, "thought") out of the car, but then went on to say it would be a minimum of $85... can you believe that? I can buy a used replacement for half that and take a chance, lol. He did make a suggestion though that might help. He said that he'd jump the "lock" wire directly over to the actuator, that way if a wire is broken somewhere in-between (common at the door/body area) it would then indicate a wiring problem. I told him I looked over the wires in-between the door and they looked good, not abused or damaged. He said that the wires could look excellent, but the wire strands "inside" the wire could have failed. That makes a lof of sense. Now, I just hope that the "orange/w black stripe" wire stays the same color right up to the RKEM.....

 

[a_bartle]

Ok, so it's not going to be as easy as I thought to run a jumper over from the RKEM to the door lock actuator. I found the pin-out diagram in the repair manual, and of course there isn't simply a matching orange/black wire from the RKEM. Now I'm not sure which wire I can use....

Has anybody tried to do this???

 

[a_bartle]

I've been looking at that diagram again (more closely), maybe it's pin # four (4) and it controls the lock feature for all the doors...

 

[a_bartle]

Jumped the #4 wire, that didn't work, now the RKE only clicks and "no" doors are locking or unlocking. If the unit wasn't fried before, it is now....

 

[a_bartle]

Just wanted to update everyone. Turns out the replacement RKEM (it was an updated part # from the original 040AH to a 040AI) solved the issue. I also had to replace the #3 fuse from the dash panel fuse box, which I'm sure I blew when I was trying to jump the orange/black wire to the lock. I'm just happy that the problem was with the RKEM and not faulty wires (which would be difficult to track down).

Thanks again for all the help everyone offered, really appreciated!

Art