[ImperialCrown]

It could be either the switch, the motor, the wiring or mechanical binding.
If you are getting a good 12 volts at the window motor terminals, then the switch and wiring have to be OK and the problem is in the motor or possibly a frozen/bound window regulator mechanism preventing motor/glass movement.
The dash switch is serviced as the pod of 4 switches. It does come apart for cleaning of contacts and inspection.
If you play with the switch lever or thump the door panel, sometimes you can get the glass moving again.

 

[Michael Mann]

I can't add much, but - if you try the switch at night, with the interior light on and the car not running, you might be able to see the interior light dim. If it does, it's not the switch.

This isn't very sophisticated, but really easy, so worth trying. But remember, if there is no dimming of the interior light, you won't know it's not the switch. The switch is easy to get to, so it would be worth checking with a volt/ohm meter.

Good luck. Please let us know the outcome.

Michael
06 PTGT vert

 

[jd_1138]

Thanks for the input. I removed the switch pod and took it apart as much as I could to clean it, but still no dice. So I removed the door panel and slid the window up (had to unscrew it from it's sliding mechanism and then wedge it into place). That's as far as I got before we had to leave for a party.

Is there a way to leave the window on the mechanism and then turn a screw or something to raise it up so at least it's closed the right way?

I just left the panel off and the window switch assembly out so I can do further diagnosing. Of course, rain is forecasted for the next 5 days and today it's the 4th, and my mechanic is gone until Monday.

 

[mr2tim]

I'd probe the motors connector wire with 12V from the battery. Switch positive and negative to get the window up/down. Fastest way to determine motor viability.