I'd check the fuses first. Consult the owner's manual to see where they are located. Not sure if your vehicle has TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module). If it does it will be black box somewhere under the hood. There may also be a fuse box under or behind the dash.
Welcome to Allpar. The power windows are on a self-resetting circuit breaker and not fuses. If the fronts work, the breaker is OK.
Generally the driver's window and switch will wear out first from the most use. The Master dash p/window switch feeds power through the rear passenger center console mounted switches before it reaches the rear door window motors. Being close to the floor and rear cupholders, they can get wet.
Unused switch contacts can easily oxidize and lose contact if the rears aren't normally used. By cycling the rear switches up/down repeatedly will sometimes clean the contacts enough where the windows may operate again. Otherwise you may need a service manual with wiring diagrams for colors and routing to find the problem.
Stiff or frozen rear window linkages can also cause the rear windows not to work. If you pull a rear door panel, check for proper voltage at the lift motor. If it has above 10 volts at the motor, it should be enough to move the glass. Dirty switch contacts can also cause a high voltage drop to the lift motor.
For future folks researching this. Driver door window failure, opened door, checked voltage at motor, ok, pulled motor/actuator out and found broken wire at the motor strain relief, very easy fix, zero cost.