[inptct]

I can't figure it out...I replaced the neutral safety switch because it would't turn over sometimes and all seemed well but the problem of it not turning over still happens. Now the odd part...It will start fine, shut it off, and then it will be dead, I will loose the memory of the radio like the battery was disconnected and as I turn the key its like the power turns on for a moment then shuts off. Also when driving I push the break and the radio shuts off and turns back on real quick without loosing memory, and I noticed that it also does this if the headlights are turned on and off, like the drain of the brake lights or headlights turning on shuts down the whole electrical system for half a second.

I was thinking a short in the ignition switch.

Any help would be great

Norm

 

[ImperialCrown]

Start at the battery terminals and posts. Scape off any hard scale and oxidation at the inside terminal and outside post contact surfaces. You want clean, shiny lead for battery connections.
Follow the battery cables to where they terminate at the fuse/junction box for the (+) side and the engine ground bolt AND body panels for the ground (-) side. Make sure that all connections are clean and tight. Make sure that all the fuses and relay plugs are seated.
Sometimes it helps to loosen and then retighten a connection or unplug and replug a connector because oxidation that causes a poor connection may not be visible from the outside and still affect the connection. The terminal metal gets scraped when plugged back in or nut retightened so a fresh conductive surface is now securely connected.
The headlight and brake light switch 'surge' makes me think that a firewall connection or dash/instrument panel ground may have a high resistance. 26 year old connections may be oxidized from just sitting there all these years.
The radio memory, headlight and brake light power do not go through the ignition switch as they get battery power to work all the time, even with the key off. Therefore the ignition switch probably isn't the first thing that I'd condemn without more investigation.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

+1. My truck will do this if I don't clean the battery connections at least twice a year. Even though they look immaculate, it will fail to crank, and it will work perfectly after I clean them.

 

[inptct]

I visually inspected everything, but will now check all connections for oxidation and other nasty crap.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Even if they look clean, scrape it all with a battery brush/terminal cleaner.

Also, check the battery voltage after sitting overnight with engine off (should be about 12.4V); while idling (should be about 13.8-14.4V); and while cranking (should be about 10.5V or higher). The battery may be failing, or the charging system has a fault, if any of these 3 are out of spec.

 

[inptct]

I tested the system and the voltage is right all around. All connections looked good and tested good when jiggled and pulled at. I cleaned the terminals, the pos was chalky white. I'll drive it for a week and let y'all know how it goes.

Norm

 

[inptct]

Cleaning the POS battery terminal fixxed the problem.

Thanks all

 

[Guest]

Stop over at the parts store and get some battery cleaner and some battery protectant. I've had excellent success with this stuff on all my old junk!