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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I'm curious if there is a good guide on pulling the engine from the front/top while leaving the intake intact.

I'm also curious as to the engine harness. Does it come out with the engine, or does it remain in the Durango?

Looking at the harness, it runs to the ECM on the passenger side, then splits off into 3 plugs which are at the ECM, and another bundle which is under the ECM. Then I have the ground wire, and alternator positive wire, but around the front, under the throttle body there's a bundle of wires that appear to snake down behind the crank pulley, which I've not investigated yet.

Just trying to get an understanding on pulling the engine before I get too involved in it.

Thanks.
 

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KOG
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Start by getting the FSM. You're going to need that when you put it back together anyway,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I might get the FSM, just wasn't really interested in buying it for this engine swap. I've already removed the bumper cover, grille, upper radiator support, radiator, condenser, power steering pump off the engine. Just waiting on my helper to come over this week to do the wiring, bell housing and torque converter so we can pull it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Yes, I understand that, but that doesn't really answer my question regarding the harness.

I've unhooked most of the harness, so I'll probably just leave it in the car and not mess with it outside the engine.

I'll also be pulling the transfer case and front differential as well and swapping over to the tailhousing for RWD.
 

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If you are removing one engine to replace with the same engine, leave the harness in place.

The only reason to pull a wiring harness with the engine would be because the harness is needed to reinstall the engine elsewhere either due to damage in the recipient vehicle or as a transplant to a vehicle with a different engine.
 

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AllData says to disconnect the harness at the engine, part of which is due to the weird engine lift fixture used, the intake has to be off to use it. AllData says position the harness to the right (passenger) side of the vehicle after disconnecting it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, thank you for that. One thing that has me stumped is why the starter cable is ran across the front of the engine and down behind the AC compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Anyone know what the stock rearend ratio is on the RT AWD? Curious if it's the same as the RWD.
 

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The intake plenum is usually removed because it is plastic and prone to breakage if it gets accidentally bumped
This is a debate that will always be present. almost all the plugs are different, mark the injectors, or, remove the whole injector assembly as a unit and move it to the side. A sharpie in white makes it a whole lot easier, but from there, it is up to you. I did a V6 by removing the connectors and didn't have a problem, the markings do help.
 

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The logic used by manufacturers on cable routing boggles the mind. I have seen some extremely strange battery cable runs and Chrysler is not alone on that issue. Back when GM was doing the "guess what engine we used" in the mid and full sized cars, some engines had left hand starters and others right hand. Where the starter and battery were on opposite sides, the positive cable ran across the front of the engine below the crank area then back to the starter. My Ford truck has the positive and negative cables bundled together to the starter.

Hopefully it is easily disconnected for engine R&R.
 

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KOG
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Logic? In 1970 I was and engineering tech for Reliance Electric, responsible for taking prototype motor controller boxes and then making the wiring harness boards for building the harness t be used in the boxes. They sent me a box down from Cleveland. I looked at it and rewired that thing from scratch. Took out about 1/3 of the wire in it, rerouted wire from over the top of the braking resister where it would have burned up in service and sent it back to them. Got reamed out. "You have not idea what you're doing, You may have created all sorts of electrical interference by altering our design". They admitted that my design worked just fine, but I was firmly told to NEVER second guess the "real" engineers in Cleveland ever again. I had undoubtedly had more training and real world experience with radio and high frequency electronics than any of the drafting board guys, but never mind that. Just don't confuse the guys in charge with reality.
 
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