Also any thoughts on ASD or Hall effect causing a problem? It's almost like something is cutting off fuel and/or spark at idle. Not sure if that would explain the miss or richness.
No, vacuum problems would make a hard pedal.Update. Well as a last ditch effort I got two gallons of regular unleaded and tossed it in the tank. I had previously put a few gallons in and I figured no way had it burned through it. Also it has been premium fuel before because I didn't know any better thinking t would help with any old fuel. Well with the regular gas....a few tries and she's idling as well as these cars ever did.
However it can't be all good news....I was moving it up and down the driveway and the brake pedal went to the floor and now the brake light is on. No fluid anywhere. Is this something to do with vacuum?
You don't read resistance with it plugged in, you unplug it to read it. But it sounds like you solved the problem - bad gas. I believe I called it on Friday.I tested the new CTS and i was getting about 8 ohms. The one on the car was pretty hard to access while still attached but I tried for quite awhile and didn't get any readout on the multimeter.
Haha thanks Bob. It was unplugged from the connector but the metal end was still attached to the water box. Frustrating as all of this can be I am having fun learning more and more about how cars work with this one.You don't read resistance with it plugged in, you unplug it to read it. But it sounds like you solved the problem - bad gas. I believe I called it on Friday.
Very interesting. I'll take a thorough look tomorrow. Thanks.The brake warning light is triggered by a spool valve that compares the pressure in the two hydraulic circuits (FR-RL and FL-RR). If, for whatever reason, pressure in one circuit is lower than the other, the higher pressure in the non-failed circuit is going to push the valve to one side. This movement closes a switch which triggers the light. So literally any failure in either hydraulic circuit could cause the light. I'm inclined to think that the master cylinder is probably not at fault here, since it's arguably the best protected and lubricated part of the system. Look for any sort of wetness around the brake lines, fittings especially. If that turns up nothing, take the wheels off and inspect, and pay careful attention to the rear drums. The rear wheel cylinders may be another prime suspect here. (Edit: read "no leaks anywhere" in your post above, I would definitely consider pulling the rear drums to check the cylinders for leakage. They're packed into a hot drum unlike the front calipers and the seals are already 28 years old... pushing life expired under pretty much any conditions.) Hydraulics usually work in the +1000psi range, and since the fluid stores no energy in compression, all of that pressure is lost through even the smallest of leaks. The fluid will find weak points fairly aggressively and when it does, that's it as far as that circuit goes.
It does make you think a bit about the condition of your parking brakes...
Still won't be 8 ohms unless the engine is at 500 degrees or so. It's a sealed thermistor, and you should get good readings with it screwed in. About 10-15K ohms with engine cold, about 700 ohms warmed up.Haha thanks Bob. It was unplugged from the connector but the metal end was still attached to the water box. Frustrating as all of this can be I am having fun learning more and more about how cars work with this one.