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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Hello to all,
unfortunately there was a big interruption in my repair, cause of some family stuff (sadly some next to kin passed away) but now I'm looking forward to get that thing back on the road again. This week I tried to assemble a fresh exchange cylinder head together, but I failed at the temperature sensor. The hole for it at the exchange head is just not drilled! Does anybody know, what kind of thread it is? As I have access to milling machines at my employer, it is no problem to do that hole, but like I measure it, it is not a common european style thread. It would be very helpful if anyone could identify the type of thread for the temperature sensor. Thanks in advance!

 

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Standard NPT (National Pipe Thread)? Hold the tap threads against the sensor threads to see them fit together. You should be able to tap a threaded hole.
 

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I've never seen a factory head without the temp sensor drilled so you "might" have a Chinese head.
There engines were used in china in everything from fork lifts to Audis, so quality "might" be questionable
especially on a performance car as the ports were often undersize and misshapen . Any photos of the head and its numbers and markings??

Thanks
Randy

CHINA HEAD.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #24
@ImperialCrown: Thanks for your hint: I found the right tread, it is a NPT 1/8" - 27 TPI and I just ordered the right tap.
Here in europe that kind of tread is unknown, so we do not have any US specific taps in our workshop. But with
your hint, I managed it to find out the right type. Thank you!

@GLHS60: Yes, I wondered also about the not drilled hole. But it is a fresh rebuild head from ClearwaterCylinderHeads
in Florida. It is a NOS part, but the labels were still on it, so I can't realy believe its a Chinese head, but it would also
explain that missing hole. Do you have some more information about that forklift stuff?
I've added two more pictures. Do you want a specific one? But I don't want to disassemble it right now.


 
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Clearwater is one of the main sources for the Chinese cast head. Nothing bad with them but they do have their fair share of things quality control should have checked.

Some notable features of the Chinese cast head is noticeable cast shift, excessive flashing that has been removed near the spark plug ports (like shown above near cylinder number 2), double cross drilling (like shown above), and lack of Chrysler markings.
 

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The picture of the ports I posted are Clearwater.
Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #28
OK, I have two options, which one would you recommend:
1.) drill that hole and use that Chinese Clearwater stuff like it is or
2.) use the old original head with the replaced seat ring
 

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I would return the head, refuse it and get another.
 

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The OP is overseas. There may be a problem returning and shipping the head for another.
Check their return policy if you want to consider this.
 

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Ratte, here is a link to the 2.2 and Audi connection, I haven't got a forklift link right now.

http://www.carnewschina.com/2012/02/28/history-the-hongqi-ca750f-from-china/

I have never used a clearwater head but many have so its probably a pretty good gamble.

Its not uncommon to have a new seat installed in the original head if you have any connection to a good engine machine shop. Cracks between the calves isn't a worry.

Good luck!!

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks at all for your comments!
@bob: returning the head is no option, because I bought it a year ago as a NOS part from ebay.
But as I requested it last year at Clearwater, they wrote it is the right one to use in my Daytona.

@Randy: Thank you for your link, thats really interesting stuff!
The original head is already done by a machine shop, so I have just to decide between the
two options right now.
I hope the tap comes tomorrow so I can prepare the thread for the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Recently I decided to use my old head with the replaced valve ring.
The reason why is, as I compared both heads, I thought that the cast from the original has a better quality.
It is more detailed and the water channels are bigger, also it should have a better cooling.

But before reassembling the engine, I had to manage the crack in the bulkhead.
I followed dana44's hint and drilled holes at each end of the crack.
Then I grinded away rust and old paint and painted it with rust prevention.


For giving the patch the right shape, I took a wooden beam and carved it like the bulkhead.
Then I beated the patch out on it.


Because for the moment the efforts for welding it are to high,
(seats, carpet, dashboard, heating with air condition should have been removed)
I decided to rivet the patch. I used sealing between the patch and the bulkhead,
placed all rivets and and sealed over all again. After curing I painted all black.


Now I mounted all engine stuff back in its correct place and after finishing I was glad that
not one screw was left over (three years after disassembling).
First I cranked it now w/o spark plugs till I had a stable oil pressure.
After that I tried it with spark plugs and it started with the first crank! Like nothing ever happened!

Perhaps you know, that in Germany all cars have to pass every two years a vehicle check to stay street legal.
And it is very strictly: even a bad wiper blade or a oily engine cause you to come again with repaired items.
So I had to do some other work like brake disks and pads front and rear, shock absorbers, engine mounts
and welding one rocker panel.
But now it is all done and it passed technical and emission controls.
Since that I drove approx. 500 miles now and all is working fine and at least, it had at December 7th its 27th Birthday.
So it is on the right way now to get a classic car. :)

 

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Long time ago when I rebuilt my '86 Turbo New Yorker it had cracks between the valves in the head - I had it tested first - I think they just used a die penetrant test - it failed - the die came through in the ports - I ended up buying a rebuilt head which looked to me like it had been repaired similar to what Dana said - ground, welded and remachined. I was told at the time there was a shop in Quebec that did this - that was 25 years ago. The Fast Burn "FB" as I see in your first pic used in '86 and up are prone to this - never seen in on a G head used in 84 and 85 - but far few of those around and they should not be interchanged.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Now, 3500 mls later, it is still running strong, as good like before that follower stuff. But now it has to take a break, because now its the turn of the Le Baron! Summertime, convertible time!
 
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Appreciate the report!!
I always like to hear of successful repairs and the international part is very cool!!
You are obviously very skilled and I wish you and your car a very good life!!

Thanks
Randy
 

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Npt taps are easily borrowed from a plumber.
 
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