[Guest]

front caliper hose replacement is the next step, did the caliper and still have intermittent cling on driver side front.
Is this a straight forward swap out does anyone know what to look for whether it has a trick or two involved?
I found the hose online and also wonder if there are any parts left out doing this beyond fluid of course and the two washes shipped with.
Thanks in advance,

 

[ImperialCrown]

Hoses that have swelled inside can act as hydraulic one-way valves causing the brakes to stay on and drag. Your parts list seems complete and should come as a hose kit. Bleed fluid until clear.
Also make sure that the brake pad mounting bracket hasn't worn 'ditches' in it that can cause the pads to stick and stay pushed against the rotors mechanically. Like shown here: brake_change_caliper_bracket_rusty_big.jpg

 

[Guest]

thank you for the input, all ought to be clean due to new calip under there, havent done my own work in a while but sounds str8 forward thanks again!

 

[moparroy]

I had a similar thing I think it was on our '92 - or maybe on the '96 - what I found in the end was there is a support bracket for the flex line. It had rusted and severly in the inside surface - enough that it would pinch off the inside of the flex line and act like a one-way valve as imperial described. I replaced one and since them I just make a habit to loosen the clamp on that bracket a bit. Replacing the line - the only trick I have found is if the lines are rusty you will often twist and break the line if you try to just unscrew the line fitting. What I have done successfully a couple times is disconnect the mounting on the flex line first and gently get it into a position where you can turn the flex line rather than turning the rigid line fitting - or even cut the flex line so you can turn th eflex line end fitting instead of th erigid line fitting. If you hold the rigid line fitting in place you will not damage it in removal. Once othe flex line is off you can heat the line fitting to free it up before assembling the new flex line. Again this is only necessary if the rigid line fitting is rusted in place and wants to turn the rigid line with it - find that is often the case. Saves having to reflare and possibly replace the rigid fitting.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Another gotcha is that some flex hoses come through with thinner copper washers than original - noticeably thinner. I had a small persistent leak after a replacement, and had to go out and buy another set of copper washers from the Help! section of Autozone, which were the same thickness as the original. So compare the new washers to the old before installation. I want to say the old were something like .070 inches thick even after crush/use, and the new ones supplied with the hose were something like .032 inches.

 

[ohcdoug]

I would recomment getting flexible stainless steel teflon lined brake hoses. exactly the same length and dimensions as OE but better in every way possible,use steel washers and look on ebay. I did mine for less than $100 when I bought the van.

Doug

 

[gusc]

I had both calipers refuse to release on my '88 about ten years ago. One side got so hot it melted a hubcap!

Turned out that the pistons in the originals were a composit and would swell over the years until they didn't move freely. Installed new calipers which have metal pistons and have had no further problems.

 

[Guest]

Another gotcha is that some flex hoses come through with thinner copper washers than original - noticeably thinner. I had a small persistent leak after a replacement, and had to go out and buy another set of copper washers from the Help! section of Autozone, which were the same thickness as the original. So compare the new washers to the old before installation. I want to say the old were something like .070 inches thick even after crush/use, and the new ones supplied with the hose were something like .032 inches.

Seems to be what is happening on the washers.. wicked leak so out the door now to locate them. strange thing tho.. there were none on the old unit where I am having the leak @ caliper connection hmmm... need to get out anyway.. maybe someone will shine some light on this 4 me? when you can!!! thanks again!

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Washers had to have been there. They get mashed in so well that you might not see them.

 

[Guest]

Washers had to have been there. They get mashed in so well that you might not see them.

thanks well must be in there or never were! the ones a parts guy grabbed out of another box for me were too small!! I went with 2 neoprene hope they do the trickle trick.

 

[Bob Lincoln]

Good luck. I never heard of using neoprene washers on a banjo bolt. The torque is about 20 ft-lbs, I would think it would leak. Let us know what happens. I bought copper washers from the Help! section of the auto parts store, and measured that they were about .071" thick, which was twice what came with the replacement calipers. The thin ones leaked, the thick ones held.

 

[Guest]

Good luck. I never heard of using neoprene washers on a banjo bolt. The torque is about 20 ft-lbs, I would think it would leak. Let us know what happens. I bought copper washers from the Help! section of the auto parts store, and measured that they were about .071" thick, which was twice what came with the replacement calipers. The thin ones leaked, the thick ones held.

Lol yeah that was dumb of me neoprene was a waste but only ones in size available. I will head to the zone today and git it right or else.. :frusty: