[dana44]

Between finding a rebuild kit, which is very simple, only a spring, check ball and diaphram, the latter is what goes bad most of the time, then go with a block-off plate and an electric fuel pump, maybe a regulator if needed. I would try a kit first.

 

[68RT]

Good possibility that they woulld be available from a forklift dealer that deals in older forklifts (flathead 6 was popular for forklifts in the fifties) or from the Power wagon people.

 

[dana44]

Try this: www.thepartsbin.com/guides/dodge/b-3/fuel_pump.html, right at $50, direct OE replacement,

Part number is #AF9543

 

[Ray Green]

Thanks for the suggestions.

Dana, I saw the pump you linked and it isn't like what we have but could work. AAP has that same part number as well.

I took the old pump apart and the diaphram looked good but the check valve was stuck. I freed it up and put the pump back on the engine. The battery was dead and it was quitting time so I'll try it tomorrow.

This classic has a 6 volt positive ground electrical system. Do I still hook red to hot from the battery charger even though the hot is the ground?

 

[dana44]

Attach the ground wire from the body/engine attachmnt to the positive for positive ground.


Oh, and good. Usually you can take the mechanical arm and push it to see if it is pumping, but then again, if it was frozen in the open position you still wouldn't know if it was working properly, haha. They are pretty simple pumps, and as long as the arm is the same length and the bolt pattern/gasket to the block is the same or seals against the block, yeah, there were quite a few different appearances, but they should still work.

 

[68RT]

Always hook the red to the positive. Make sure your charger does 6 volt though. Yes, both Chrysler corp and Ford and some others used positive ground for 6 volt systems. Theory was that the body would have less corrosion.

 

[Ray Green]

The Coronet started and runs smooth. I guess that stuck check valve was the problem.

 

[dana44]

Glad to hear it worked.