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Hi, all. Thanks for visiting last update of 2018. I recently put Signet away for the winter - as insurance expired Nov.30th. The last three months of driving have been pretty much flawless. The car is functioning so well it is almost shame to give it up due to (impending) weather. Unlike a year ago, I could drive right up to last day and, could easily be driving it now - as yet to snow in main (lower) part of city.
Still got looks of appreciation and 'thumbs-up' from strangers (even on N.30) and more than one person asked if it would be my 'winter' car? Of course I had to explain to them why it's not an option. Maybe we drove our (new) A, B and E-bodies all year round 30 or more years ago - but no way today - especially when snow, ice or gravel and salt on roads. I would expect most of us with these older 'classics' tend to have a newer 'all-season' vehicle anyway, right?
So, as my insurance ran out Aug.10th, I was not in a big hurry to 'activate' it again so car remained parked until Sept.01. In British Columbia, we can buy insurance for 3 or more months at a time. Sept.01 would expire Nov.30th. - but they still add on (greedy) surcharges for 'short-term' insurance and registration - (about $30. extra).
Anyway, I got around to troubleshooting the sudden fuel delivery issue. Yes, I initially pointed to the pump itself - likely being a check valve issue. If diaphragm failed, gas would leak externally. I did have a couple other pumps to try if need be. Strangest thing was that carb was definitely dry inside as nothing coming out the 'squirter' - unless I filled it manually via the air vent tube. Then, it would squirt, start, run and then, about one minute later, it would stall - dry. But, when cranking engine with line off, gas would shoot out (as it should) into a container. Hmm. Never had this happen before. But, until Nov.2004, I'd never had a vehicle with the Holley single-barrel carb. I did 're-kit' this one in fall, 2012, mainly 'cause it needed the fuel bowl gasket, and only problem since has been the (pesky) periodic idle-feed tube failure (as documented in previous posts).
So, as logic dictates, good fuel supply AT the inlet of carb should allow fuel to enter via needle valve. Well, not in this case. I removed the four screws from fuel bowl and only a couple drops of gas fell out. Float assembly worked okay so what would be preventing fuel from entering through needle valve? Only reason would be float (stuck) in UP position and, I soon pointed finger to the (yes, 'homemade') bowl gasket. When I made it up months earlier, it fit and worked fine - through both trips to the Coast and back. But, as time went by, the material managed to swell and distort enough to (apparently) cause a part of the gasket to wedge against the float body. Never would imagine this could happen. The (OEM) gasket supplied in kits is a choice between thin or thick. Right away, 'thin' can causes float rubbing issues and hense 'erratic' fuel flow. Yes, I learned this the hard way back in 2012. So, from that time I used the thicker one. Then, when playing with the idle-feed tube, gasket had to be replaced as it will change 'integrity' depending on whether wet or dry. We all know those 'cork-rubber' engine gaskets tend to shrink when used and then allowed to dry out. Holley two and four-barrels also had metering block and fuel bowl sealing issues (with used gaskets) so this one-barrel not exempt.
Anyway, I had good gasket material so measured as precisely as I could to get the inside and outside diameters as close to perfect, and, used the sharpest 'exacto' surgical type knife I could find. You want nice, smooth, sharp edges - to prevent tearing or gasket particles from breaking off. It takes a bit of time but results well worth it.
So, with this done and car back on the road, I haven't had any trouble over the past three months. The car has never run better. It starts good whether warm or cold. The power steering, as 'dialed-in', is biggest improvement in past 14 years. It is so smooth and quiet (for almost 50 yr.old vehicle). When idling, even in gear, I find myself glancing at oil pressure light - to see if engine in fact has stalled.
The coolant leak stopped and no heat issues, but, still not a permanent fix. I may or may not have the head re-surfaced next Spring. I'll decide that when the time comes.
So, with loss of family member in early October, there are just the 'two of us' in the home - and Christmas going to be - - - different. My 14 yr. old daughter is my priority and wouldn't change it for anything.
I do not log in as much as most others but hope to do it more often as things slow down here. So, with that in mind, to everyone who takes some time to read my periodic 'blogs', please enjoy a safe and happy Holiday season, and all the best in 2019. If any questions or comments, do not hesitate to message.
Still got looks of appreciation and 'thumbs-up' from strangers (even on N.30) and more than one person asked if it would be my 'winter' car? Of course I had to explain to them why it's not an option. Maybe we drove our (new) A, B and E-bodies all year round 30 or more years ago - but no way today - especially when snow, ice or gravel and salt on roads. I would expect most of us with these older 'classics' tend to have a newer 'all-season' vehicle anyway, right?
So, as my insurance ran out Aug.10th, I was not in a big hurry to 'activate' it again so car remained parked until Sept.01. In British Columbia, we can buy insurance for 3 or more months at a time. Sept.01 would expire Nov.30th. - but they still add on (greedy) surcharges for 'short-term' insurance and registration - (about $30. extra).
Anyway, I got around to troubleshooting the sudden fuel delivery issue. Yes, I initially pointed to the pump itself - likely being a check valve issue. If diaphragm failed, gas would leak externally. I did have a couple other pumps to try if need be. Strangest thing was that carb was definitely dry inside as nothing coming out the 'squirter' - unless I filled it manually via the air vent tube. Then, it would squirt, start, run and then, about one minute later, it would stall - dry. But, when cranking engine with line off, gas would shoot out (as it should) into a container. Hmm. Never had this happen before. But, until Nov.2004, I'd never had a vehicle with the Holley single-barrel carb. I did 're-kit' this one in fall, 2012, mainly 'cause it needed the fuel bowl gasket, and only problem since has been the (pesky) periodic idle-feed tube failure (as documented in previous posts).
So, as logic dictates, good fuel supply AT the inlet of carb should allow fuel to enter via needle valve. Well, not in this case. I removed the four screws from fuel bowl and only a couple drops of gas fell out. Float assembly worked okay so what would be preventing fuel from entering through needle valve? Only reason would be float (stuck) in UP position and, I soon pointed finger to the (yes, 'homemade') bowl gasket. When I made it up months earlier, it fit and worked fine - through both trips to the Coast and back. But, as time went by, the material managed to swell and distort enough to (apparently) cause a part of the gasket to wedge against the float body. Never would imagine this could happen. The (OEM) gasket supplied in kits is a choice between thin or thick. Right away, 'thin' can causes float rubbing issues and hense 'erratic' fuel flow. Yes, I learned this the hard way back in 2012. So, from that time I used the thicker one. Then, when playing with the idle-feed tube, gasket had to be replaced as it will change 'integrity' depending on whether wet or dry. We all know those 'cork-rubber' engine gaskets tend to shrink when used and then allowed to dry out. Holley two and four-barrels also had metering block and fuel bowl sealing issues (with used gaskets) so this one-barrel not exempt.
Anyway, I had good gasket material so measured as precisely as I could to get the inside and outside diameters as close to perfect, and, used the sharpest 'exacto' surgical type knife I could find. You want nice, smooth, sharp edges - to prevent tearing or gasket particles from breaking off. It takes a bit of time but results well worth it.
So, with this done and car back on the road, I haven't had any trouble over the past three months. The car has never run better. It starts good whether warm or cold. The power steering, as 'dialed-in', is biggest improvement in past 14 years. It is so smooth and quiet (for almost 50 yr.old vehicle). When idling, even in gear, I find myself glancing at oil pressure light - to see if engine in fact has stalled.
The coolant leak stopped and no heat issues, but, still not a permanent fix. I may or may not have the head re-surfaced next Spring. I'll decide that when the time comes.
So, with loss of family member in early October, there are just the 'two of us' in the home - and Christmas going to be - - - different. My 14 yr. old daughter is my priority and wouldn't change it for anything.
I do not log in as much as most others but hope to do it more often as things slow down here. So, with that in mind, to everyone who takes some time to read my periodic 'blogs', please enjoy a safe and happy Holiday season, and all the best in 2019. If any questions or comments, do not hesitate to message.