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I finally sprang for a wheel alignment on the 97 Intrepid, I found someone to do it for 70 bucks and it came out great, I wasn't sure if I wanted to do it after I replaced the struts and tie rods and sleeves, but after I seen the tires feathering on the edges a bit I changed my mind real quick, I got a set of tires from the salvage yard for the front as well that look almost new so I got them added on for another 94.00 so for just under 200 bucks the Intrepid is solid, handles better than ever and can cruise at any speed smoothly. I just love it, and with the Infinity speakers I took from the 2nd gen LHS the stereo is awesome to listen to. I am lucky the 4 ohm aftermarkets in the back didn't damage the crossovers in the amp, it is a day and night difference from before.

Tomorrow I am changing the rear struts and that should be about it. Best thing is it runs and drives like a brand new car without the payment every month.
 

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I thought the caster and camber settings were fixed on both my '95 Intrepid and on the '10 Charger - not sure about the '97s but would have figured same. The only thing adjustable is toe - so yes tie rod ends. Tie rod ends I just do one at a time and make sure the steering centre is the same as prior - you can tell a half turn difference.
 

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From the factory they are not adjustable. But there are ways to align them (LH, not sure the LX is the same):
1) Using factory parts there are crash kits to set camber (smaller bots offset to the lower mount of the strut can move)
2) Aftermarket struts often have elongated holes so you can use a regular size bolt with an eccentric washer to set camber.
 

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valiant67 said:
From the factory they are not adjustable. But there are ways to align them (LH, not sure the LX is the same):
1) Using factory parts there are crash kits to set camber (smaller bots offset to the lower mount of the strut can move)
2) Aftermarket struts often have elongated holes so you can use a regular size bolt with an eccentric washer to set camber.
Correction - the LX is not the same - I happened across the procedure in the manual - there are some adjustments on the LX - but only toe on the LH.
 

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There are two TSBs about camber and caster adjustments on the LH sedans. One says to grind the strut mounting holes eccentric, the other says to use smaller bolts but higher grade (aircraft) that get torqued higher.
 

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7 years later, but no need to grind. RockAuto sells offset bolts.

1 bolt adds or subtracts up to 1.75 degres, doing both nets up to 2.5 degrees of freedom.
AC Delco 45K18053 for example
 

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After the front-left strut lower spring support broke (rust) while hitting a dip in the road on my '00 m I'm going to say 7 years ago, I've since replaced all 4 struts (one of them twice), both lower control arms, both front tension struts, both inner and outer tie rods. And all 4 subframe bushings, and the 2 motor mounts and the transmission mount. Never took it in for alignment. I made sure new tie rod lengths matched the old ones. On the highway with no cross wind the steering wheel is level and the car will drive straight for as long as I care to take my hands off the wheel. Tires have shown perfectly even wear.
 
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