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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1971 Plymouth Satellite Base 4 door. Does anyone have a diagram showing the route of the headlight switch wires? The two wires pictured are hot to the touch. The green and the black with white stripe. Not sure if this is normal or not. I want to make sure nothing is grounding. I’ve unwrapped every wire under the hood to half under the dash. Only one more section that is behind gauges. Side note, I was having an issue with the lights blinking after 15 minutes I ended up replacing the headlight switch and it quit Not sure if the switch itself was bad, or wires caused it to go bad
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The last picture shows a small melted spot from when the previous switch was in it. The new switch seems to be doing fine. I have ran the car with headlights on for avoid an hour with no issues. The two wires are hot to the touch but not melting hot like previously. Just for curiosity I put the old switch back in and the the two wires doubled in temp. And the lights started blinking again after 15 minutes
 

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Those terminals may still be heating up with current flow.
If they are brass terminals, they may have a dark oxidation or 'tarnished' appearance.
The high-resistance makes heat.
There is an internal circuit breaker inside the switch that may be cycling on & offl? Excessive headlamp current draw can do that.
I would replace the pigtail. There are quality generic replacement assemblies available.

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. . . . 1971 Plymouth Satellite Base 4 door. Does anyone have a diagram showing the route of the headlight switch wires? The two wires pictured are hot to the touch. The green and the black with white stripe. Not sure if this is normal or not. . . . .
Follow this link to the early June 2022 discussion about your issue with the blinking headlamps. Voltage Issue Satellite

Scroll to my post #25 dated June 3, 2022. Attached to the narrative is a drawing of the vehicle wiring. Enlarge the image and then look at the upper, right corner. It shows the headlamp switch. Terminal H is the power output from the switch to he high - low beam dimmer switch on the LGN / light green wire.

The headlamp bulbs ground circuit is through the body. Make sure you have good grounds or run a separate ground wire to the headlamp assemblies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Those terminals may still be heating up with current flow.
If they are brass terminals, they may have a dark oxidation or 'tarnished' appearance.
The high-resistance makes heat.
There is an internal circuit breaker inside the switch that may be cycling on & offl? Excessive headlamp current draw can do that.
I would replace the pigtail. There are quality generic replacement assemblies available.

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looks like Amazon has one. Thank you for the advice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Follow this link to the early June 2022 discussion about your issue with the blinking headlamps. Voltage Issue Satellite

Scroll to my post #25 dated June 3, 2022. Attached to the narrative is a drawing of the vehicle wiring. Enlarge the image and then look at the upper, right corner. It shows the headlamp switch. Terminal H is the power output from the switch to he high - low beam dimmer switch on the LGN / light green wire.

The headlamp bulbs ground circuit is through the body. Make sure you have good grounds or run a separate ground wire to the headlamp assemblies.
it’s very likely the ground could be my issue. I had the car painted shortly before Carlise. On the way to the show is when we first had our issues Other than the steering column ground, where exactly would I look for the headlight harness ground? Or where should I put an extra?
 

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it’s very likely the ground could be my issue. I had the car painted shortly before Carlise. On the way to the show is when we first had our issues Other than the steering column ground, where exactly would I look for the headlight harness ground? Or where should I put an extra?
it is quite likely there is a ground (or one for each side) for the headlight wiring at the front of the car. You may need to clean these grounds. There should be no need to add a ground.
 
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. . . .it’s very likely the ground could be my issue. I had the car painted shortly before Carlise. On the way to the show is when we first had our issues Other than the steering column ground, where exactly would I look for the headlight harness ground? Or where should I put an extra? . . .
The quad headlamps are mounted horizontally on your vehicle. The outboard lamps use a 3 wire connector: red, violet, black. The inner headlamps use a 2 wire connector: red and black. Trace the black wire to a common ground point somewhere in the front end of the vehicle. Clean the surface and connector to make sure you have a good ground attachment. If in doubt about the effectiveness of the ground run a separte ground wire from the common ground point to the negative battery cable clamp. See attached image.

Slope Parallel Rectangle Font Diagram
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
it is quite likely there is a ground (or one for each side) for the headlight wiring at the front of the car. You may need to clean these grounds. There should be no need to add a ground.
would a bad ground cause the issue of the headlights blinking and the switch getting hot?
 

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. . . . would a bad ground cause the issue of the headlights blinking and the switch getting hot? . . . .
A bad ground connection will increase the resistance of the circuitry. This causes more electrical current to flow to operate the headlamps. If there is a significant current increase beyond design characteristics, the wires and the headlamp switch will start to heat up. The circuit breaker in the headlamp switch works by sensing the temperature of the wiring circuit. Excessive current draw causes a bimetallic spring to open the contacts and stop the overcurrent. When the bimetallic spring contact cools it once again closes the circuit and the action repeats. This causes the blinking off and on.
 

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Rectangle Schematic Slope Font Parallel


M2 goes to the dome light wiring
M2A goes to the map lamp if you have one
E1 goes to the fuse block
L2A goes to the time delay relay and comes out as L2 and goes to the dimmer switch
L7 goes to the body wiring connector
L6 goes to the headlight on reminder buzzer connector
L1 goes to a splice.

Out of that splice:
R6A-12BK goes to the ammeter
J1-12R is the battery power to the 8-way plug at the steering column
Q3-12R goes to the battery power terminal on the fuse block
H1-16V goes to the Horn relay/key buzzer on the fuse block
R6-12BK goes to cavity 18 on the bulkhead disconnect then to the alternator
 
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