G
Guest
·Please, before you decide to reply to this posting, please read all of it below. I was getting too many people replying on a another post that I made telling what I should do when I already did these things. I need someone that has had this exact experience that I am having and basically done to their car all that I have done listed below. This is not an easy diagnostic fix. This freaking Sucks.
This is all going on with the car parked. This car has an intermittent starting issue and running issue. It doesn't matter what the temperature is. Sometimes it starts up right away and sometimes it doesn't want to start up right away. When it does start up, it will run slightly rough to real rough at times. It varies on each start up. It also runs super smooth when it starts up and has lots of power. It also dies at idle sometimes right when it starts to run a little rough.
Sometimes when it is running perfect at idle and I snap the throttle down numerous times at different RPM levels, it will start to run a little rough and then it starts running smooth again; but it is inconsistent each time I do this. The most prominent issue that occurs is when I push the gas pedal down about three quarters of the way it will die on me like no fuel. The way it dies is like making a sound from your voice boooooaaaaaaaahhhhh. Like if you cut off all fuel to the combustion chambers. If I let off the pedal it will stumble at times and still run; but dies shortly after. If I try to move the car a short distance when it will stay running, I have to pump the gas pedal to get the car to move; but that don't always work. No, it's not a Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced it. Please read below so you know the whole scoop of all I have done to this car. The fuel pressure is a constant around 55 pounds at and in the fuel rail. I also have constant hot spark and the timing Cog Gears are set correctly per factory specified settings.
A detailed list of work performed, diagnostics and parts replacement.
4/86 Chrysler New Yorker 2.2L Turbo 1 Multi Port Fuel Injection
Serial# 1C3BT56E2GC263426
Nothing has been modified on this car. Everything is stock. The engine, transmission and everything else is what came with this car from the factory other then replacing sensors, etc; but those were of OEM Specification after market parts and some OEM Factory parts.
All the work I performed was of aircraft quality. No errors or mistakes were made. I'm a total perfectionist.
Diagnostic tests and Parts Replacements
Parts reference and diagnostic results will be listed as >--> (OEM Factory) (OEM Aftermarket) (New) (Old) (Used) (Good)
Perfectly Rebuilt Original Engine (Flawless Job) with 10,000 miles on it. No leaks, nothing loose, perfect job. Under hood area's all clean.
Radiator, Water Pump, Thermostat, Hoses, Belts have been replaced with the engine rebuild. Turbo Hoses and Gateway (New)
1. Battery Voltage 12.58 (New) (Interstate) No corrosion on terminals or below, and a side it.
2. Alternator Output 14.28V (New) (OEM Aftermarket) Wiring (Good) Connections (Good)
3. Spark Plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, hall effect sensor (Good) (New) (OEM Aftermarket) Wiring, connectors, no corrosion and tight contact fit. (Good)
4. No play in-between the distributor shaft and bushing. Tight (Good)
5. All vacuum lines are new and all fuel hoses are new. Routed per factory. No Errors.
6. Power Module (New) (OEM Aftermarket) Wiring to it, connectors are tight and no corrosion.
7. Logic Module (OEM Aftermarket) (Two Years Old) Note: Within a two year period, the power loss light came on and then back off. A total of 5 times. Car still ran OK.
8. No previous or present codes while diagnosing my problem. (Good)
9. All Wiring harnesses were inspected for faults, breakage and loose connections. (Good)
10. Fuel Injectors, No leaks and new O-Seals. (Good)
11. Fuel Injection Harness and Connectors Inspected. No corrosion on terminals or injectors. Snug Fit (Good)
12. Fuel pump in tank. new sock filter, o-seal and rollover valve in tank. (OEM Factory) Hoses (New) The connector has no corrosion or bad wires to it. Snug snap fit.
13. Fuel Filter (New) Fuel Tank Inspected and Clean. (Good) Inspected fuel lines from tank to engine. (Good)
14. Fuel Pressure Regulator (Good) Replaced during the engine rebuild. (Good)
15. Tested Fuel Pump Relay. Checked Wiring and Connection. No Corrosion, Snug Fit. (Good)
16. Checked Mechanical Timing. Crank to Cam to Auxiliary Shaft set per factory setting. (Good)
17. Checked Distributor rotor location on TDC #1 compression stroke. (Good)
18. Sensors replacements, etc. Oxygen, Coolant, Knock, TPS, Intake Temp, and IAC Motor. Map sensor and vacuum hose. (OEM Aftermarket) (New) (Good)
19. Air Filter. (New)
20. Air Duct Inlet Tube. No cracks, no splits or leaks. Clamps are tight. (Good)
21. Checked Fuses, wiring to fuse block, firewall main bulkhead connector. No corrosion or bad wiring. (Good)
Take Note: I covered all basis with the diagnostics of all these components above and they read out fine per factory specifications.
This leads me with a few options left.
1. Ignition Switch?
2. Faulty Power Module? Even though it is new.
3. Faulty Logic Module? Power Loss light came on at times through two years of usage.
This is all going on with the car parked. This car has an intermittent starting issue and running issue. It doesn't matter what the temperature is. Sometimes it starts up right away and sometimes it doesn't want to start up right away. When it does start up, it will run slightly rough to real rough at times. It varies on each start up. It also runs super smooth when it starts up and has lots of power. It also dies at idle sometimes right when it starts to run a little rough.
Sometimes when it is running perfect at idle and I snap the throttle down numerous times at different RPM levels, it will start to run a little rough and then it starts running smooth again; but it is inconsistent each time I do this. The most prominent issue that occurs is when I push the gas pedal down about three quarters of the way it will die on me like no fuel. The way it dies is like making a sound from your voice boooooaaaaaaaahhhhh. Like if you cut off all fuel to the combustion chambers. If I let off the pedal it will stumble at times and still run; but dies shortly after. If I try to move the car a short distance when it will stay running, I have to pump the gas pedal to get the car to move; but that don't always work. No, it's not a Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced it. Please read below so you know the whole scoop of all I have done to this car. The fuel pressure is a constant around 55 pounds at and in the fuel rail. I also have constant hot spark and the timing Cog Gears are set correctly per factory specified settings.
A detailed list of work performed, diagnostics and parts replacement.
4/86 Chrysler New Yorker 2.2L Turbo 1 Multi Port Fuel Injection
Serial# 1C3BT56E2GC263426
Nothing has been modified on this car. Everything is stock. The engine, transmission and everything else is what came with this car from the factory other then replacing sensors, etc; but those were of OEM Specification after market parts and some OEM Factory parts.
All the work I performed was of aircraft quality. No errors or mistakes were made. I'm a total perfectionist.
Diagnostic tests and Parts Replacements
Parts reference and diagnostic results will be listed as >--> (OEM Factory) (OEM Aftermarket) (New) (Old) (Used) (Good)
Perfectly Rebuilt Original Engine (Flawless Job) with 10,000 miles on it. No leaks, nothing loose, perfect job. Under hood area's all clean.
Radiator, Water Pump, Thermostat, Hoses, Belts have been replaced with the engine rebuild. Turbo Hoses and Gateway (New)
1. Battery Voltage 12.58 (New) (Interstate) No corrosion on terminals or below, and a side it.
2. Alternator Output 14.28V (New) (OEM Aftermarket) Wiring (Good) Connections (Good)
3. Spark Plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, hall effect sensor (Good) (New) (OEM Aftermarket) Wiring, connectors, no corrosion and tight contact fit. (Good)
4. No play in-between the distributor shaft and bushing. Tight (Good)
5. All vacuum lines are new and all fuel hoses are new. Routed per factory. No Errors.
6. Power Module (New) (OEM Aftermarket) Wiring to it, connectors are tight and no corrosion.
7. Logic Module (OEM Aftermarket) (Two Years Old) Note: Within a two year period, the power loss light came on and then back off. A total of 5 times. Car still ran OK.
8. No previous or present codes while diagnosing my problem. (Good)
9. All Wiring harnesses were inspected for faults, breakage and loose connections. (Good)
10. Fuel Injectors, No leaks and new O-Seals. (Good)
11. Fuel Injection Harness and Connectors Inspected. No corrosion on terminals or injectors. Snug Fit (Good)
12. Fuel pump in tank. new sock filter, o-seal and rollover valve in tank. (OEM Factory) Hoses (New) The connector has no corrosion or bad wires to it. Snug snap fit.
13. Fuel Filter (New) Fuel Tank Inspected and Clean. (Good) Inspected fuel lines from tank to engine. (Good)
14. Fuel Pressure Regulator (Good) Replaced during the engine rebuild. (Good)
15. Tested Fuel Pump Relay. Checked Wiring and Connection. No Corrosion, Snug Fit. (Good)
16. Checked Mechanical Timing. Crank to Cam to Auxiliary Shaft set per factory setting. (Good)
17. Checked Distributor rotor location on TDC #1 compression stroke. (Good)
18. Sensors replacements, etc. Oxygen, Coolant, Knock, TPS, Intake Temp, and IAC Motor. Map sensor and vacuum hose. (OEM Aftermarket) (New) (Good)
19. Air Filter. (New)
20. Air Duct Inlet Tube. No cracks, no splits or leaks. Clamps are tight. (Good)
21. Checked Fuses, wiring to fuse block, firewall main bulkhead connector. No corrosion or bad wiring. (Good)
Take Note: I covered all basis with the diagnostics of all these components above and they read out fine per factory specifications.
This leads me with a few options left.
1. Ignition Switch?
2. Faulty Power Module? Even though it is new.
3. Faulty Logic Module? Power Loss light came on at times through two years of usage.