[ImperialCrown]

If you can park the car straddling a curb in order to get clearance to slide underneath it, have a helper jounce the car while you listen and feel for the squeak. You might see a shiny spot in the metal where the sway bar may have slid sideways and it is possibly rubbing the crossmember or control arm or it is at a lower ball joint or dry tie-rod end?
The small splash shields that protect the sway link and tie-rod end joint rubber boots may be bent and rubbing?

 

[95chryslercirrus]

Nothing rubbing. Straddled the curb an felt around while my cousin moved the suspension. The sqeaking was best felt on the sway bar, and was traced to the sway bar end link. The sqeaking stops entirely when the wheel is turned to the left. I saw that it is twisted as far towards the left (back of the car if looking at it straight on) and the left side end link is not like this. The rubber seal is not even on the link all the way and is allowing grease to come out. I tried so hard to get it to stay straight and get it tight, but I am not doing something right. I should mention that I installed it by jacking up the entire front of the car, supporting with jack stands, and removing the old end link. I had to raise the suspension in order to get the end link to clear and get it out and the new one in. I found no documentation on installing this anywhere, so I assumed it was straightforward.

 

[ImperialCrown]

Having one side raised and the other side not can cause sway bar service problems. You might want to use the curb again so you can slide underneath and loosen things up to get the left and right side geometries as close to the same as possible.


INSTALLATION

1. Position stabilizer bar and bushings as an assembly into front crossmember. Install the stabilizer bar bushing retainer to crossmember and body attaching bolts Stabilizer Bar Bushing Retainer Attaching Bolts Tighten the retainer bolts going through the crossmember to 163 N·m (120 ft. lbs.) Tighten the retainer bolts going to the body to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
2. Align stabilizer bar attaching link assemblies with attaching link mounting holes in the lower control arms. Install stabilizer bar attaching links into both lower control arms. Install the attaching link to lower control arm retaining nuts. Torque the stabilizer bar attaching link nuts to 105 N·m (78 ft. lbs.)

 

[95chryslercirrus]

Okay, so the suspension needs to be loaded (car on a level surface, front of the car on a curb to get underneath to remove the sway bar from the lower control arm, and I can then remove and re-install the end links?

 

[ImperialCrown]

If you loosen the fasteners, you may be able to move things around to center everything, then tighten things up and retry it. Make sure that the links are oriented correctly.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

I have straightened everything up, and the sqeaking stopped. However, it has begun to turn again already, and I tightened it with the best of my ability using a wrench. Why is it moving?

 

[ImperialCrown]

The link stud is turning? They have to be held on the stud-side with a wrench while tightening the nut.

 

[95chryslercirrus]

The end link was turning where it connects to the sway bar, and also inside the lower control arm. I got in there and re-alighned and tightened back up. So far, it hasn't turned again, and there is no more squeaking. Sorry for my delayed reply, busy working, you know. Lol. Thanks for all your help!

 

[digitalrailroader]

that's why when I did My end Links AND my Bushings, I was using the two post lift at my Collision school!