How Do I Recharge My Ac
21 - 40 of 163 Posts
a 1989 will have come with r-12 from the factory.
An r-12 system properly converted to r-134a will have adapter fittings screwed to the charge ports. An r-12 system's charge ports look like tire valves. An r-134a system has quick-connect fittings just like those used for shop air compressor hoses. (where the air hose connects to the air supply line... not where it connects to the tire valve!)
If you are considering converting your system you should check out www.aircondition.com . They have a discussion forum where you can read up on the do's and don'ts of converting. The conversion kits sold at Wal-Mart have misleading directions. Many r-12 systems have a substance in their dryers / accumulators that disintegrates in the presence of r-134a, which will make your system stop working and will make it MUCH more expensive to get up and running again.
An r-12 system properly converted to r-134a will have adapter fittings screwed to the charge ports. An r-12 system's charge ports look like tire valves. An r-134a system has quick-connect fittings just like those used for shop air compressor hoses. (where the air hose connects to the air supply line... not where it connects to the tire valve!)
If you are considering converting your system you should check out www.aircondition.com . They have a discussion forum where you can read up on the do's and don'ts of converting. The conversion kits sold at Wal-Mart have misleading directions. Many r-12 systems have a substance in their dryers / accumulators that disintegrates in the presence of r-134a, which will make your system stop working and will make it MUCH more expensive to get up and running again.
Thanks for the kind comments, guys! 
All the R-12 work I have done was always gas-charged, not liquid. Same with R-22 (not mobile, stationary A/C!).
The problem with liquid charging is slugging the compressor. As each piston moves to the compression side of its cylinder, it is supposed to compress the gas and squeeze it out the output reed valve for that cylinder. As a gas, it is compressable, so there is a "give" to it (think 'bouncy, cushioned").
A slug of liquid has a different effect. Think of a solid rod flying into the cylinder. As the swash plate comes around, the piston starts to move in the compression direction. But the liquid doesn't compress. Instead, the cylinder pressure rises very sharply, and it rams the high-mass liquid out through the reed valve (think "smash"). Hard on the pistons, reed valves, etc.
Now some systems like Ford's fixed orifice sytems have an accumulator after the suction test port, and before the compressor. The accumulator will store excess liquid refrigerant, and it will vaporize it in with the flow of hot gas from the evaporator. But even then, its still recommended on those to gas charge.
I always use a bucket of hot water when using the 12 Oz. cans. I use a small plastic "painters bucket" that probably holds about a gallon of water, or a little less. It works with can tappers with their short hose that I have used. I only use the can tapper cheapie setup if I am adding oil to an existing, charged system. Because I don't want to heavily contaminate my gauge set and its hoses with oil (because of the different oil types!).
I'll try to find the reference for not mixing PAG with Ester and vice-versa.
I certainly agree with eyknough, if a system is working fine, then let sleeping dogs lie!
All the R-12 work I have done was always gas-charged, not liquid. Same with R-22 (not mobile, stationary A/C!).
The problem with liquid charging is slugging the compressor. As each piston moves to the compression side of its cylinder, it is supposed to compress the gas and squeeze it out the output reed valve for that cylinder. As a gas, it is compressable, so there is a "give" to it (think 'bouncy, cushioned").
A slug of liquid has a different effect. Think of a solid rod flying into the cylinder. As the swash plate comes around, the piston starts to move in the compression direction. But the liquid doesn't compress. Instead, the cylinder pressure rises very sharply, and it rams the high-mass liquid out through the reed valve (think "smash"). Hard on the pistons, reed valves, etc.
Now some systems like Ford's fixed orifice sytems have an accumulator after the suction test port, and before the compressor. The accumulator will store excess liquid refrigerant, and it will vaporize it in with the flow of hot gas from the evaporator. But even then, its still recommended on those to gas charge.
I always use a bucket of hot water when using the 12 Oz. cans. I use a small plastic "painters bucket" that probably holds about a gallon of water, or a little less. It works with can tappers with their short hose that I have used. I only use the can tapper cheapie setup if I am adding oil to an existing, charged system. Because I don't want to heavily contaminate my gauge set and its hoses with oil (because of the different oil types!).
I'll try to find the reference for not mixing PAG with Ester and vice-versa.
I certainly agree with eyknough, if a system is working fine, then let sleeping dogs lie!
94Caravan.... I believe you've just changed my mind.
I figured the liquid would just be squirted out the "out" valve with no harm done. (I swear the r-12 can I just bought said to charge as a liquid... which I thought was weird knowing that it's recomended to charge as a gas only).
Guess I'll look for a longer charge hose (or build in a nice can holder on to the hot tank on the radiator).
Thanks (says my a/c systems and myself)!
I figured the liquid would just be squirted out the "out" valve with no harm done. (I swear the r-12 can I just bought said to charge as a liquid... which I thought was weird knowing that it's recomended to charge as a gas only).
Guess I'll look for a longer charge hose (or build in a nice can holder on to the hot tank on the radiator).
Thanks (says my a/c systems and myself)!
G
Guest
·YAY!! I got it to charge!!! FINALLY! Must Not Have had it long enough the first time....well it sucked in 14 oz. How much does the system hold? Should i add another small can? I think the small cans are 6 oz. maybe 8..... It blows cool air, not cold like R12 would Wish i could get my hands on some R12 cheap I now hafta replace my a/c compressor on my Saab to see if that is what is the leak...but a/c is so far easy to do. THX i'll be back with more questions too i'm sure. Keep on Truckin....
Wish i could get my hands on some R12 cheap I now hafta replace my a/c compressor on my Saab to see if that is what is the leak...but a/c is so far easy to do. THX i'll be back with more questions too i'm sure. Keep on Truckin....
Joined
·
1 Posts
EXCELLENT posts, guys. A/C is one thing I've never tackled and it's been costing me $100. every spring for a top up. (Something about the high cost of specially trained technicians, licensing, etc.)
I should have known it was just another scam! (I keep wanting and trying to trust these guys at the dealerships and garages but they just keep putting it to me every chance they get!!!!)
:blink:
I should have known it was just another scam! (I keep wanting and trying to trust these guys at the dealerships and garages but they just keep putting it to me every chance they get!!!!)
:blink:Quick question about oil-starving a compressor.... will the compressor start to make noises at higher RPMs? If my engine is in the mid to high RPM range and the compressor kicks on, I get a loud noise from it. Is this the compressor going? I know already that the compressor is on its way out, as it was found to be rattling at the last service. One of the bearings is going, I think, but it's still blowing cold, so I'm leaving it be.
DooD
DooD
G
Guest
·hey guess what....when you overfill the system, the compressor doesn't cycle, it just stays on had to vent a bit of the stuff out to get it back down to the norm. oh well, atleast it's FULLY charged but it vents green......guess that's the leak test crud, since the system has the "nomal" leaks (which are not known where about) Anyways....the charge was a success and we are off to MAINE tomorrow (Sunday) so we'll see just how well it does work. Next fix is the radio, the tape deck has a bad motor, any "self repairs" out there for it? Othwise we're gonna get a new head unit instead for the $$.
~Peace & Happiness~
~~BurnsSide42~~
had to vent a bit of the stuff out to get it back down to the norm. oh well, atleast it's FULLY charged but it vents green......guess that's the leak test crud, since the system has the "nomal" leaks (which are not known where about) Anyways....the charge was a success and we are off to MAINE tomorrow (Sunday) so we'll see just how well it does work. Next fix is the radio, the tape deck has a bad motor, any "self repairs" out there for it? Othwise we're gonna get a new head unit instead for the $$. ~Peace & Happiness~
~~BurnsSide42~~
Joined
·
37 Posts
Please guys, don't make a blanket statment, about getting ripped off. There are good shops, and bad shops. There are good techs, and bad techs. I am an ASE certified master auto tech, with A/C being my specialty area. By federal law I have to be certified, Also I am required to have a recovery/recycling machine for every type of refrigerant I work with. R-12, R-134a, R-22 (i do RV's also), and a recovery only machine for contaminated systems, (when someone mixes two different refrigerants in the system. Such as adding R-134 when the system is not empty of r-12, or adding r-22 to a system that does not use it. There are a lot of nightmares out there for the tech. Each recycling machine costs between $3000-$4000. Then I have to buy a identifier($2000) so I know what is in the system, and can use the correct machine. There you go $15,000 just to recover what is in the system. I have about $2000 invested in leak detection equipment. Each type detector, has advantages and disadvantages. How about a scan tool at $3000 to "see" what the computer is telling the A/C. Did you know if the engine temp gets too high, even if the engine does not overheat, the computer will shut off the A/C, to protect the engine? There is a lot more investment required, but I hope you get the point. PS this does not even figure time and money for continuous training.
RANT OFF.
eyknough,
are you sure that was r-12? It could have been "FREEZE 12", that gets charged as a liquid, since it is a blend. It is not the same as r-12.
RANT OFF.
eyknough,
are you sure that was r-12? It could have been "FREEZE 12", that gets charged as a liquid, since it is a blend. It is not the same as r-12.
Nope. It was r-12. Had to whip out my certification and all.
I'm pretty sure the can is still hanging around. I'll just have to take a look at it the next time. Heh. It was probably freeze-12 with an r-12 label put over it.
I know it's easy to be blas? about venting refrigerant. But just don't get caught or turned in. It's a HUGE gigantic humongous no-no in the a/c profession.
One violation is a career breaker if you're busted. It's probably harder to prosecute a non-certified person, but I bet the epa would make your life unhappy if not fine you outrageously even if you are not certified to make an example out of you.
The power of the DuPont lobby.
$100 for a top off? Yes... you were paying too much.
Hang in there.... unless you're in the southern hemisphere, it's ALMOST over...... Soon it'll be ice scrapers and kicking slush buildup off the wheel wells.
A one... a two....
ohhhhhhh the weather outside is frightful... but the fire is sooo delightful..... And since we've no place to go.... let it snow let it snow let it snow.
(Hey, nice new site setup! It's been a few days since I've been around)
I'm pretty sure the can is still hanging around. I'll just have to take a look at it the next time. Heh. It was probably freeze-12 with an r-12 label put over it.
I know it's easy to be blas? about venting refrigerant. But just don't get caught or turned in.
It's a HUGE gigantic humongous no-no in the a/c profession.One violation is a career breaker if you're busted. It's probably harder to prosecute a non-certified person, but I bet the epa would make your life unhappy if not fine you outrageously even if you are not certified to make an example out of you.
The power of the DuPont lobby.
$100 for a top off? Yes... you were paying too much.
Hang in there.... unless you're in the southern hemisphere, it's ALMOST over...... Soon it'll be ice scrapers and kicking slush buildup off the wheel wells.
A one... a two....
ohhhhhhh the weather outside is frightful... but the fire is sooo delightful..... And since we've no place to go.... let it snow let it snow let it snow.
(Hey, nice new site setup! It's been a few days since I've been around)
Great explanation Karl. Anyone know if there was a retro-fix for this ?
If you do change the evaporator, what's to say it won't rust in 3 years ?
My 98 Voyageur started this A/C top-up cycle last year.
This year the dealer (Canadian) put in a sealer.
So far, so good. Anyone else try this ?
If you do change the evaporator, what's to say it won't rust in 3 years ?
My 98 Voyageur started this A/C top-up cycle last year.
This year the dealer (Canadian) put in a sealer.
So far, so good. Anyone else try this ?
hey guys,
i heard 96+ caravans had some kind of A/C problems.. I have a 98GC ES, that my mom drives. I noticed that water is draining into the interior. On the passenger side, and drips on the floor. When u make turns you can hear the water moving around.. sounds like its coming from behind the glovebox.. Also that's where it leaks from, sometimes heavy..
what's going on here? Is it water from the a/c??
i heard 96+ caravans had some kind of A/C problems.. I have a 98GC ES, that my mom drives. I noticed that water is draining into the interior. On the passenger side, and drips on the floor. When u make turns you can hear the water moving around.. sounds like its coming from behind the glovebox.. Also that's where it leaks from, sometimes heavy..
what's going on here? Is it water from the a/c??
vtec11, the a/c drain is clogged. It is on the bottom of the firewall behind the engine. Open it and you should solve the water problem.
Back on topic. I just put a can of Quest Super Sealer in my A/C. Its supposed to moisture activated epoxy that seals almost all leaks. Good news is the a/c still works after I did it. In 2-3 weeks, I will let you know if it actually worked. The a/c was leaking about 6-8 ounces of r134a per month.
Back on topic. I just put a can of Quest Super Sealer in my A/C. Its supposed to moisture activated epoxy that seals almost all leaks. Good news is the a/c still works after I did it. In 2-3 weeks, I will let you know if it actually worked. The a/c was leaking about 6-8 ounces of r134a per month.
Well I tried/ Went to Walter Mart and got the R144 kit with the gauge and
tried to check my 96 Caravan 3 liter. Well now, I found the high side fitting, but the only thing remotely close to a low side fitting was a relatively small plastic orfice with external threads. It had a tag stating Evap service port 1 psi regulated only. It DID NOT fit the quick connect, nor did it fit any of the supplied adapters
( It shouldn't have but I was desperate). Any thoughts ...
Thanks
tried to check my 96 Caravan 3 liter. Well now, I found the high side fitting, but the only thing remotely close to a low side fitting was a relatively small plastic orfice with external threads. It had a tag stating Evap service port 1 psi regulated only. It DID NOT fit the quick connect, nor did it fit any of the supplied adapters
( It shouldn't have but I was desperate). Any thoughts ...
Thanks
Hello, all. I'm on the hunt for auto A/C diagnostic and repair diy-type info.
I want to learn as many how-to things as I can before I shrug my shoulders and shell out a wad of bucks to a truly deserving and knowledgable repairperson.
I have some AC problems that I want to see if you'all can help me diagnose and repair.
I want to learn as many how-to things as I can before I shrug my shoulders and shell out a wad of bucks to a truly deserving and knowledgable repairperson.
I have some AC problems that I want to see if you'all can help me diagnose and repair.
21 - 40 of 163 Posts
