The car always cranks, so I dont think it is the neutral safety switch.
I will remove the cap later next week and take a look at it.
I have an addiction...
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I will remove the cap later next week and take a look at it.
Yes, each time it has stalled, I have check and there is no spark.
So I was initially kinda excited that the car died, thinking now it has failed, we can find the issue. However, turned out to be rusty battery terminals
though it was not visible until i took them off, so cleaned them up and she is running fine now.
though it was not visible until i took them off, so cleaned them up and she is running fine now.
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2,098 Posts
Beautiful Valiant!!
For reference here is a link to a 1964 Canadian brochure.
Thanks
Randy
1964 Valiant Brochure (at http://oldcarbrochures.com/static/Canada/Plymouth/1964%20Valiant%20Brochure/index1.html )
For reference here is a link to a 1964 Canadian brochure.
Thanks
Randy
1964 Valiant Brochure (at http://oldcarbrochures.com/static/Canada/Plymouth/1964%20Valiant%20Brochure/index1.html )
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4,629 Posts
Yes. Also, I have seen the main screw on the ignition module harness being too tight, causing intermittent problems!
Could you take a peek at the U joint straps, next time you are under the car, and see if they have any date codes??
I have a thread on this. Much appreciated!
If I may ask, what did you do with the new yorker?So as some of you know, my 64 New Yorker was involved in an accident and I chose not fix as there was just more then I have time deal with. So that left me without a Classic Mopar and I felt a bit incomplete.
I always browse classic car ads to keep an idea on market trends & came across this car and I knew I had to have it!
This will make the 4th Valiant I have owned...so it’s very clear I have a Valiant Addiction
More pics to come, but I tired from the 4 hour drive home.
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718 Posts
That is a fantastic brochure. Lots of detail, text, pictures.
I sure can, I will see if I can jack up the car later tonight.Yes. Also, I have seen the main screw on the ignition module harness being too tight, causing intermittent problems!
Could you take a peek at the U joint straps, next time you are under the car, and see if they have any date codes??
I have a thread on this. Much appreciated!
I technically still have it. The current plans are to scrap the body(not really worth fixing) and use the engine/trans combo in a 60's era Dodge truck.
Did you need parts? or the whole car?
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4,629 Posts
I finally got a chance and looked under the car, I dont see any date codes. Sorry.Yes. Also, I have seen the main screw on the ignition module harness being too tight, causing intermittent problems!
Could you take a peek at the U joint straps, next time you are under the car, and see if they have any date codes??
I have a thread on this. Much appreciated!
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4,629 Posts
Another vote for no codes on the small joint straps...
Thank you for looking.
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2,605 Posts
Yes, and they apparently did.
Haven't seen much about this car in the last 6 months. I hope that no news is good news.
The car has been pretty good for the most part. We took the trip to LA in April for the MOPAR show and took 2nd place in our class.
I have a few little things that need to be addressed:
The voltage bypass(not sure of the exact term) during cranking is not working. So if the battery happens to be a bit low, there will be no spark. I am going to order a new ignition switch and see if that fixes it, if not we will come up with a solution. This has not caused to much of an issue, as the battery is good and the weather is warm.
The next thing I need to replace is the distributor, as the shaft has some play. It does seem to run just fine.
The Carburator needs to be rebuilt, it not horrible, but with the E10 gas, it is not happy. So have been running Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas and that has helped tremendously.
Otherwise, there are just some cosmetic things that need to be done, but nothing urgent.
I have taken the car on a few car shows, but with the summer heat, I have laid low. The Valiant is no fun to drive when its 107 degrees outside....
Here is the video I did for the MOPAR show in April:
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2,605 Posts
Good to read that it's been reliable, and your trophy was deserved. In fact, given the competition in your class at the meet, it's pretty impressive.
Not sure what to recommend about this. Earlier, you reported that cleaning the posts and terminals helped with another electrical problem, so maybe it just needs cleaning more often. When I bought the Dakota that I recently sold, it had a WalMart battery that had a slight opening in its positive post, and I had to keep cleaning that side. I wound up replacing the terminals more than once. After I replaced the battery, that problem went away. You might check your battery posts periodically, though it doesn't read like this is your problem.
Right, E10 will do that. I just read that more refineries are receiving exemptions from forcing them to use ethanol. The farmers are squawking, but this should benefit drivers of older vehicles, and those of us who use power lawnmowers, as we won't have to rebuild carburetors as often. Refiners might have to find another ingredient that helps boost octane (xylene is one of them). Whether the loss of the subsidies causes gas prices to rise remains to be seen. Wherever I see ethanol-free gas (E0) being sold, it's usually 30 to 50 cents per gallon higher than E10.
I thought I would update, the Valiant has been mostly reliable till the other day and I had no spark again....very irritating! This damn electronic ignition is a PITA! All my previous Valiant'd have had points and never had ignition issues.
Anyhow, we going to run a small relay to bypass the ballast resistor during cranking, so that should solve the low voltage issues during cranking.
Next thing we have to fix, is the carb, it has gotten so bad, that after sitting for 10 min or so, it is completely flooded. My dad ordered a rebuild kit from a company in FL that claims these kits are designed for E10 gas.
The Radiator has to pinhole leaks, very small and actually not leaking at the moment, but I will have a radiator shop reseal it.
One last thing, I have a slight rattle/clunk coming from the right front and I cant seem to figure out where it is coming from. I jacked up the front and checked the ball joint and control arm bushings, all seems tight. This only happens on slight road imperfections, like cracks and such. normal bumps do not cause any issues.
We should have all this wrapped up in the next few weeks, after all, Spring Fling is around the corner!
Anyhow, we going to run a small relay to bypass the ballast resistor during cranking, so that should solve the low voltage issues during cranking.
Next thing we have to fix, is the carb, it has gotten so bad, that after sitting for 10 min or so, it is completely flooded. My dad ordered a rebuild kit from a company in FL that claims these kits are designed for E10 gas.
The Radiator has to pinhole leaks, very small and actually not leaking at the moment, but I will have a radiator shop reseal it.
One last thing, I have a slight rattle/clunk coming from the right front and I cant seem to figure out where it is coming from. I jacked up the front and checked the ball joint and control arm bushings, all seems tight. This only happens on slight road imperfections, like cracks and such. normal bumps do not cause any issues.
We should have all this wrapped up in the next few weeks, after all, Spring Fling is around the corner!
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2,605 Posts
The clunk could be a shock absorber. You might also check the motor mounts.
When I was losing spark in a D100, the battery was grounded to the engine, but it wasn't properly grounded to the frame, and kept killing the coil. You might check all of the grounds.
When I was losing spark in a D100, the battery was grounded to the engine, but it wasn't properly grounded to the frame, and kept killing the coil. You might check all of the grounds.
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