[saltydog]

I seem to recall early A bodies had staggered front wheels. I.E. centerlines were off almost 1”.
Could this possibly explain the odd wear rate?

Humm, never heard of that, but anything is possible.

 

[rapidtrans]

Humm, never heard of that, but anything is possible.

A Car Magazine was installing F70s on a 67 Barracuda way back when. They couldn't figure out why one side fit yet the other side hit the wheel opng. I believe a local alignment shop solved that mystery. They solved the clearance issue with a mallet.

 

[voiceofstl]

I wonder how a 3.8 drivetrain from a jeep would do in the A body.

 

[saltydog]

I wonder how a 3.8 drivetrain from a jeep would do in the A body.

I have wondered about that, nice narrow engine and drivetrain setup.

 

[voiceofstl]

I have wondered about that, nice narrow engine and drivetrain setup.

Everyone thinks they need a 500 horse V8 in the old cars. I would use that 3.8 4 speed auto in alot of old cars. from the last 30's to the mid 50's. The key is the 3.8 drivetrain is very compact and can fit in almost anything with out going through contortions to make it fit.

 

[saltydog]

Everyone thinks they need a 500 horse V8 in the old cars. I would use that 3.8 4 speed auto in alot of old cars. from the last 30's to the mid 50's. The key is the 3.8 drivetrain is very compact and can fit in almost anything with out going through contortions to make it fit.

I agree with ya, i can not count how many time I have had guys ask me when I am dropping a V8 in the Valiant... and I love to shock them with the "Never" reply. The 6 is plenty for me and I don't have any plans on racing the car and the I can drive and keep up with current traffic, so I am good.

I would love to convert to EFI and Overdrive Auto, but since this is not daily driver, not really worth the time and money to do all that.

In my dreams for a classic Daily Driver: Valiant Wagon with the 3.8/auto or 3.6/auto.

 

[saltydog]

Ok, so I need to replace ball joints on the Valiant and the one of the front drums is warped, right front brake is sticking. So there is some work I need to get done.

So I am thinking of doing this conversion: DBK6272A-40 - 1962-1972 Mopar A Body Small Bolt Pattern Standard Disc Brake Conversion Kit (at https://piratejack.net/dbk6272a-40/ )

Thoughts?

 

[Scrounge]

I'd personally keep it original, so long as the parts are available. Does it currently have power brakes? If not, was stopping at a reasonable distance an issue before the warp developed?

Sticking might be due to a faulty brake cylinder, master cylinder, or brake hose. Or maybe air is in that line.

 

[valiant67]

Front disc brakes are a really good upgrade if you plan to drive frequently. Just keep what you take off.

You may find power assist isn’t required even with disc brakes on such a light car.

 

[voiceofstl]

One of my last old cars was a 66 corone with drums.Thet were rebuilt and adjusted perfectly. As I drove the car I thought these brakes are great why do folks say drums suck.....well I was on the highway and I had to make a emergicy stop, I barely made it. I had manual drums and I had to push the pedal as hard as I could, I felt like fred flintstone trying to stop the car with my foot.
Get front disc brakes.

 

[voiceofstl]

I agree with ya, i can not count how many time I have had guys ask me when I am dropping a V8 in the Valiant... and I love to shock them with the "Never" reply. The 6 is plenty for me and I don't have any plans on racing the car and the I can drive and keep up with current traffic, so I am good.

I would love to convert to EFI and Overdrive Auto, but since this is not daily driver, not really worth the time and money to do all that.

In my dreams for a classic Daily Driver: Valiant Wagon with the 3.8/auto or 3.6/auto.

Have you thought about putting a 2 barrel in it? Should be a inexpensive bolt on and makes starting and driveabilty alot better and you pick up some performance.

 

[saltydog]

I'd personally keep it original, so long as the parts are available. Does it currently have power brakes? If not, was stopping at a reasonable distance an issue before the warp developed?

Sticking might be due to a faulty brake cylinder, master cylinder, or brake hose. Or maybe air is in that line.

The stopping distance is just ok and when I drive to LA for the car show, the stop n go traffic is not easy on the drums, hence the warpage. They just build up too much heat and the panic stops are not really an option.

People are driving more and more distracted and traffic will just stop at moment's notice, that is not a good situation to be in with this nice old car. I have considered just trailering the car to LA, as that is how unnerving it can be.

As for the sticky brake, its not too bad, but since I need to replace drums & hardware, ball joints, it makes sense to do the upgrade to disc.

I would save the original items.

 

[saltydog]

Front disc brakes are a really good upgrade if you plan to drive frequently. Just keep what you take off.

You may find power assist isn’t required even with disc brakes on such a light car.

Yeah I am thinking that just getting the disc upgrade is going to be enough and we could always add a power booster later on without much work.

 

[saltydog]

Have you thought about putting a 2 barrel in it? Should be a inexpensive bolt on and makes starting and driveabilty alot better and you pick up some performance.

I have, many times, but I will have to completely redo the throttle/kick down linkage, as my car still has the rotating rod for the throttle linkage. Needless to say that will be a whole new adventure that I am not quite ready for.

 

[Scrounge]

When my '84 D100 developed a sticky right front brake, it pulled to the right while stopping. It only did so when outdoor temperatures were warmer and it was sunny outside. Replacing that brake hose fixed the problem. If you upgrade to disks, the calipers replaces the brake cylinders.

Looks like your pics are no longer up, and I don't remember; does it also have the original single reservoir master cylinder? If so, and you intend to upgrade, you might also want to replace it with a newer dual master cylinder. I forget what exactly will work, but I vaguely recall that the master cylinders from '67 to '74 models bolt in fine. You'll have to replace the shorter brake line from the master cylinder with two of them; there might be a how-to page on this site that describes the process.

 

[saltydog]

When my '84 D100 developed a sticky right front brake, it pulled to the right while stopping. It only did so when outdoor temperatures were warmer and it was sunny outside. Replacing that brake hose fixed the problem. If you upgrade to disks, the calipers replaces the brake cylinders.

Looks like your pics are no longer up, and I don't remember; does it also have the original single reservoir master cylinder? If so, and you intend to upgrade, you might also want to replace it with a newer dual master cylinder. I forget what exactly will work, but I vaguely recall that the master cylinders from '67 to '74 models bolt in fine. You'll have to replace the shorter brake line from the master cylinder with two of them; there might be a how-to page on this site that describes the process.

My account expired or something like that. I will see if I can post with Google.

Anyhow, my car has the single master cylinder, so yes will be upgrading that and adding a adjustable proportioning valve.

 

[Scrounge]

Have you thought about putting a 2 barrel in it? Should be a inexpensive bolt on and makes starting and driveabilty alot better and you pick up some performance.

I have, many times, but I will have to completely redo the throttle/kick down linkage, as my car still has the rotating rod for the throttle linkage. Needless to say that will be a whole new adventure that I am not quite ready for.

If you go this route, prepare for worse gas mileage. The earliest slant 6 engines had an optional 4-bbl package called a Hyper Pack, and I saw either a Dart or Valiant around your vintage at a Mopar show that had 2 1-bbl carbs, but that may have been customized. Some 225 smog engines had 2-barrels in the late 1970's. Other than them, I don't know where you'd find a 2-bbl slant 6 intake manifold.

 

[valiant67]

The slant 6 2bbl motor has much, much better driveability than the 1 bbl version. It's getting hard to find the parts (especially if you have an automatic and need the kickdown).
I'd gladly take the 1 MPG hit for the better driving of the "Super 6" 2 bbl setup. Look for parts from a 1978-1979 slant 6, it was especially common on the Aspen and Volare.

 

[voiceofstl]

The slant 6 2bbl motor has much, much better driveability than the 1 bbl version. It's getting hard to find the parts (especially if you have an automatic and need the kickdown).
I'd gladly take the 1 MPG hit for the better driving of the "Super 6" 2 bbl setup. Look for parts from a 1978-1979 slant 6, it was especially common on the Aspen and Volare.

Isn't there a after market that sells a 2 barr setup?

 

[saltydog]

Isn't there a after market that sells a 2 barr setup?

Not that I am aware of, there is a two 1bbl setup I have seen, but that does not appeal to me for tuning reasons. There is several 4bbl intakes that are available as well, but I not interested in making it a hot rod.

So I have seen several custom made 2bbl intakes and it seems rather strait forward, provided you have fabrication skills.