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Idle issue,engine vibrates more than normal

21K views 39 replies 8 participants last post by  ImperialCrown 
#1 ·
hello I am new here ! I have an 2017 DODGE GC
With 55000 on it ! Well I bought it used with 54000 miles from a dodge dealer ! The car was perfect for a few days, after that I started feeling vibrations while Idling and on P I checked to see if it makes difference on D or on N or R but the vibrations where still noticeable!You can feel the vibrations all inside the car ! Then when I was driving I stopped at a red light and upon releasing the brakes the car start having a jerking motion but it goes away after pressing the gas pedal! I(if you stop and try to go again the car start to jerk again)Well I stopped on side of the road and check the engine and the engine had a bad vibration ! Took the car to dealer and he inspect it and update the computer software! That didn’t fix the problem! When I asked for a paperwork of the service he refuse to give it to me ! As of the jerking of the car he stated that’s normal!!! So I hooked up my OBD reader and there is no codes , when i did I system scan I can see like 30 to 40 misfires from cylinder 2 on a 10 minutes drive! I changed all spark plugs but it didn’t fixed the problem! Also the car has whining engine noise upon acceleration! Also the steering wheel makes a humming noise noticeable only on the inside of the car like you have have the car eat blower on medium! Also I have white smoke and water coming from my exhaust even on a hot day!its really annoying driving the car with that jerking motion on traffic it makes you sick to the stomach! Also I have no codes or engine light is not on ! I cleaned the throttle body and no change !

View: https://youtu.be/RFL7BDa-SKk


And that’s what my Rpms look like

View: https://youtu.be/QjTykIn92Lk
 
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#3 ·
hello I am new here ! I have an 2017 DODGE GC
With 55000 on it ! Well I bought it used with 54000 miles from a dodge dealer ! The car was perfect for a few days, after that I started feeling vibrations while Idling and on P I checked to see if it makes difference on D or on N or R but the vibrations where still noticeable!You can feel the vibrations all inside the car ! Then when I was driving I stopped at a red light and upon releasing the brakes the car start having a jerking motion but it goes away after pressing the gas pedal! I(if you stop and try to go again the car start to jerk again)Well I stopped on side of the road and check the engine and the engine had a bad vibration ! Took the car to dealer and he inspect it and update the computer software! That didn’t fix the problem! When I asked for a paperwork of the service he refuse to give it to me ! As of the jerking of the car he stated that’s normal!!! So I hooked up my OBD reader and there is no codes , when i did I system scan I can see like 30 to 40 misfires from cylinder 2 on a 10 minutes drive! I changed all spark plugs but it didn’t fixed the problem! Also the car has whining engine noise upon acceleration! Also the steering wheel makes a humming noise noticeable only on the inside of the car like you have have the car eat blower on medium! Also I have white smoke and water coming from my exhaust even on a hot day!its really annoying driving the car with that jerking motion on traffic it makes you sick to the stomach! Also I have no codes or engine light is not on ! I cleaned the throttle body and no change !

View: https://youtu.be/RFL7BDa-SKk


And that’s what my Rpms look like

View: https://youtu.be/QjTykIn92Lk
Yes they look good
 
#4 ·
The only other thing I can think of is u-joints, and your GC is front-drive, so that doesn't apply.

As for the misfires, it could be a bad wire. It could be several other things; does your GC have a distributor? If so, you might check the cap and rotor.
 
#5 ·
The only other thing I can think of is u-joints, and your GC is front-drive, so that doesn't apply.

As for the misfires, it could be a bad wire. It could be several other things; does your GC have a distributor? If so, you might check the cap and rotor.
I don’t have a clue If it has a distributor!!!and why the ecm don’t show any codes for the misfires?
 
#6 ·
Welcome to Allpar. No distributor. You may need to escalate this at the dealer. Read your warranties and consumer protection materials in your contract. Was this a Certified used car?
You are out of the basic 3/36 warranty, but is your powertrain warranty still in effect? Any extended service contract come with it?
It is important to sign and get receipts for any work performed on the vehicle. Without documentation or a paper trail, you have little to go on with FCA or a courtroom.
If the PCM is at the latest software revision and you were counting #2 cylinder misfires on a scan tool, this is important diagnostic information. If it hasn't set a misfire code yet, have them scrutinize the OBDII misfire monitor for a misfire count and which cylinder is misfiring.
If you can, arrange to meet with the service manager to explain the issue, sign a repair order and have the manager follow the repair situation through the shop. Is your salesperson aware of the issue? Alert them as to the situation when you bring the vehicle back in for service.
 
#7 ·
My 3 /36 warranty is out but I still have like 3000 miles on powertrain left! I tried to talk to the manager but he is the one telling me that the car is suppose to work that way(he said that the torque converter don’t have enough hydraulic pressure and that’s why it jerks)Lol!i took the car to a different dealer to diagnose the car but he said the problem has to get a lot worse to diagnose! Like my car to break down! He didn’t say anything about the car jerking!It was a certified vehicle , and i also purchased a 3 year extended warranty!
 
#10 ·
If they tell you it's normal, ask them to let you drive another van in their inventory to see if it does it. "They all do it" is the oldest excuse to avoid repair work in the industry.

It is possible it could have bad gas/moisture in the gas so the gas treatment idea might have a little merit.
 
#12 ·
If the service manager is unable or unwilling to assist you, move up a level to the dealer principal (owner). You can ask for an appointment with the district service manager the day when they are at the dealership. They may want to drive the car.
There is an 800 phone number for customer assistance.
Chrysler has an arbitration process, if it comes to that:
https://www.ncdsusa.org/documents/Consumer Arbitration Brochure.pdf
There is also a member here on Allpar from FCA that assists members with possible warranty/service dissatisfaction issues. Their name escapes me at the moment.
 
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#14 ·
Thank you all for the time you all take to look at my problem! What that arbitration do? I also have 15000 $ on car payment left on it for a car that is so unpleasant to drive ! On my first days after purchasing the car was so smooth and my family was so happy! Now the car brings me white hair on my head and bad dreams ... lol! I am gonna keep you all posted after I dropped the van off to the stealer !
 
#16 ·
I have done an oil change recently ! I also paid for another diagnosis but they found everything ok! I ask about transmission fluid they said it does not need any! I found the silicon gasket from the transmission pan having a leak but I don’t think is the cause ! The leak is minor !
 
#17 ·
Also the jerk movement happen when slowly releasing the brake and almost 1-2 Mph speed ! The jerks also appear when slowing down to almost complete stop ! If you let the car roll by it’s self like when you are at traffic the jerks getting really bad !even when the brake is not pressed!
 
#18 ·
That sounds very much like a u-joint, except your GC doesn't have one. I still lean toward replacing at least one motor mount. Someone else will have to say whether a CV joint could be the cause.

As for the trans fluid leak, keep a close eye on it. You might be able to tighten the pan bolts enough to end the leak, but it's more likely that the gasket will need replacing.
 
#20 ·
I checked several Chrysler powertrain diagnostic manuals for 4 cylinder and V6 engines. Typically an individual cylinder misfire code is set when a misfire rate exceeds 1 - 2% during 2 trips or misfire rate exceeds 10 - 30% in one trip. So your engine is close but is not exceeding the programmed misfire rate so no telltale code is set. But you still are getting a vibration from the misfires depicted on a scan tool.

Back in year 2011 when the Pentastar V6 was first released, a small number developed cracks around cylinder #2 and rough running and misfires occurred. Supposedly the manufacturer replaced engine heads to remedy the problem but it could be possible your engine is developing this issue???

You have replaced the spark plugs but the slight misfire continues. This engine uses individual coils mounted atop the spark plugs. I would suggest moving the coil on cylinder #2 to #4 and see if the misfire moves to cylinder #4. If it does then the issue is traceable to that particular coil.

If you swap #2 and #4 coils and the misfire continues on #2 cylinder, swap the fuel injectors between #2 and #4 cylinders. Again if the misfire moves to cylinder #4 then the fuel injector is causing the misfire. If the misfire continues on #2 cylinder then the cause lies elsewhere.
 
#21 ·
That’s what I am going to try next if the dealer finds nothing ! I have read about the cylinder 2 problem also and Chrysler had the cylinder 2 replaced on effected vehicles, also they extended the warranty to 10 years ! This morning before I left for work I got under the car to check the mountings again the 2 in the back there is no way you can tell if they are good because are surrounded of kinda metal housing ! But I notice a small crack on the front mount I’m the middle ! Looks small but can that create my jerking?
 

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#24 ·
First, investigate whether the state has a lemon law, and what it states. Next, let's see what happens after the vehicle is taken to the shop. It seems that it has more than one problem, but if they repair the main one (jerking and vibrating), at least the dealer has done its job.
 
#25 ·
Have you looked at the CarFax on this vehicle?
Having the problems that seem so obvious, I would think that the dealer would have unloaded this unit at an auction. Was the sale price to good to be true?
Check out Lehtos Law on YouTube for information about the Lemon Law.
 
#26 ·
#27 ·
"But I notice a small crack on the front mount I’m the middle ! Looks small but can that create my jerking?"

^ THIS. Bad motor mount.
 
#28 ·
^ THIS. Bad motor mount.
If Bob says so, I'd take his advice. My experience has been with rear-drive vehicles, and I've driven on mounts in worse condition without issues. But front-drive vehicles might be more sensitive, perhaps due to the weight of both engine and transmission.

The engine movement looks slight, but with very little clearance, any movement could cause vibrations. It seems like it's moving toward the rear instead of the front, so I'd suspect the rear mounts first. Ask the service manager to have the mechanic examine ALL of the mounts. And while it's on the lift, ask that he examine the rest of the suspension. Since you bought it used, you don't know what kind of roads the original owner drove it on. Definitely show your videos of the engine and pics of the mount to the service manager.

Not sure what to say about the grinding. It could be something as simple as the fan hitting the shroud when the engine moves back. You might check the shroud for evidence of this.

You might invest in the factory service manual for your GC. These days, it could be available on a CD for less than you would pay in book form.
 
#29 ·
Engine should not rock more than about 1/4". When a mount is bad, you can see it rock one way from R to D, and the other from D to R. Have had a center mount bad in two cars. First one gave a click/snap sound, and there was a TSB on it, but the dealer I took it to didn't care to fix it, even though it was on my dime. So I fixed it myself.
My other Daytona always had an abrupt clutch engagement, hard to keep it from stalling, and it vibrated like crazy at idle, enough that the dash had a buzzing sound. I owned it for 10 years before I had the time and thought to replace it. Sure enough, someone had installed a solid polyurethane mount. I put a factory mount in, and the difference was amazing. No more vibration, smooth clutch engagement.
 
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#30 ·
I’d be curious if this vehicle was brought in on a trade or at auction. It has a lot of miles for the average two years of ownership and the sale price may have been too good to be true. It seems the service department is playing dumb and hopes you give up and go away. Any chance the BBB could help? Is there a local mechanic that could diagnose the problem?
 
#31 ·
Being a Factory Certified Used Vehicle (as I gather from post #7), it would have to meet many qualifications like low miles, no accidents and clean history. The checklist is long. These are supposed to be the cream-of-the-crop.
The dealer generally wants these premium used vehicles to be an exemplary ownership experience. I don't know the full back-story here.
Something isn't right.
 
#32 ·
My brother has an BMW X1 2017 that he bought brand new and he has already put 50000 miles on it! He has to drive 1 hour to work and 1 hour back 6 days a week ! So miles add up fast I think..Now back to my dodge , the car has clean carfax, and it was sold as certified vehicle I paid 16000$ for it !I dropped my dodge yesterday morning back to the dealer , and talk with the service manager,he drove the car and said that he can feel what I describe and looked at videos and pictures! I got a call like 5 afternoon yesterday and got told the dust find anything yesterday and that the keep the car and try again today! They gave me a loner car exactly like mine same year and everything that’s drives smooth and stuff so I asked again for the service manager and I told him that’s how the cars is supposed to work and blah blah ! He said I am right but still no updates! I am gonna go by there in a few minutes to check !
 
#33 ·
This seems to be more progress than earlier, though you still lack a diagnosis. Since you have a loaner, have the dealership keep your vehicle until they find and fix the problem. You doubtless want your GC back as soon as possible, but at this point, I'd advise patience: yours isn't the only vehicle in their garage. You can have it right, or you can have it now: you'd rather have it right.
 
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