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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
picked up a older ih truck that has what im told is a 383 v block someone swaped in converting it to 2wd from 4wd
i know absolutely nothing about v blocks.

do the distributer caps just clip in? the one of this motor wont stay on kinda confused how sits on there. the points all look clean though
also dunno what order what wire goes where. dumb questions i know

i dont have the luxery of having access to a parts store near by closest napa is 400kms 4-6hr drive im in a remote part of canada at the end where the turn off to ice raods begin


was there only one belt for the fan and the altinator or did they run seperate ones cause the pulleys sure have lots of extra spots for belts
and the one on it is stupid loose i can take it off.

the air intake has 2 inlets and is sitting in the cab if thats of any relevance. googling the motor just comes up with allot of specs on hp and torque witch i dont realy care about at this point i just want to fire it up and move the truck



had it turn over easy by hand last night going over things plugs all look good.
need to figure out the eltrical for starting it as the keys missing.bit of a rats net under the hood
need rad hoses the ones on it are toast
do i need the vacume lines on one of these to work see they are falling apart soft rubber.

looking to be able to drive it from where its sitting a couple miles to my garage. where i can take it apart fix the rust and bring back to life.
oil looks decent (prolly should change it though) same with the trans looking good.
has some sorta automatic on it. again dont know anything on what i have honestly.

from googling i dont think i have stock seats sure cumfy though maybe from the car the engine came outa? shrugs



i
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Welcome to Allpar. It was someone's project truck that needs some TLC.
IH engines were used as Power Giants in Dodge trucks, so there might be some interchageabilty?
The dual-snorkel air cleaner was common on police cars.




 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
o sweet txs for the diagraam

is theres anything i should watcch out for when working on this motor?
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Check wiring and rubber hoses for varmint chew marks and nests.
Make sure that the engine is free to turn.
If it starts and stays running, make sure that there are no fuel leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
havent found any signs of roden nests anywhere first thing i looked for

i can turn the motor
need to figure out the fuel system on it
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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If it has sat for years, you might not want to use any fuel that remains in the tank.
Bring a charged battery or run it off jumpers if you can get your vehicle close enough.
Bring a can of fresh fuel and a length of 5/16" fuel hose.
If the fuel pump has dried out, it may not pump, even with fresh fuel.
See if it will fire up with a splash of fuel into the carb?
A 'gravity feed' from the can to the carb may keep it running to see if the truck can be moved.
A few moments of run time shouldn't hurt the engine without a cooling system.
 

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She sure does look like a 383 (or one of the other B/RB engines), and it has high performance exhaust manifolds on her, and if original, late 60s to early 70s engine, the engine code stamped on a flat pad at the left side water pump inlet on the block will tell you what she really is, along with the engine numbers cast into the left side of the engine.
The distributor cap should have a little cast notch in the plastic that will index onto the distributor housing, a clamp snaps onto the edge of the cap, one on either side of the cap/distributor housing.
You can get early wiring diagrams online for free, suggest something like 1968 Dodge Coronet/Charger or Dart. They are pretty simple and all wired the same, but it definitely needs to be completely redone, along with your vacuum hoses.
You have a bit of work before firing her up, so take your time and do it right once, instead of fighting problems one at a time.
 
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I will mention a couple of things (a) distributor should have an oil cup, engine oil into it as the upper bushing only gets oil that way (b) plug wires, #7 wire is roughly 7 feet long and runs down the inside of the driver's side valve cover and around the back of the head and up under the manifold to reach the plug, these originally had some nice hard plastic "bushings" that clipped around the wires and snapped into brackets. These B/RB engines are extremely hard on plug wires due to heat and location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If it has sat for years, you might not want to use any fuel that remains in the tank.
Bring a charged battery or run it off jumpers if you can get your vehicle close enough.
Bring a can of fresh fuel and a length of 5/16" fuel hose.
If the fuel pump has dried out, it may not pump, even with fresh fuel.
See if it will fire up with a splash of fuel into the carb?
A 'gravity feed' from the can to the carb may keep it running to see if the truck can be moved.
A few moments of run time shouldn't hurt the engine without a cooling system.
i think he fuel tanks sitting in the back seat not sure if its the one for this truck or somthing els
so the fuel pump is a mechanical diaphragm pump run off the motor like on the volvo B20?



its curently raining here oon and off if theres break ill take trip out to the trck see if i can crank it.
gotta get rad hoses for it theyre shot.

this point i just wana prove the starter works i know it will turn over


She sure does look like a 383 (or one of the other B/RB engines), and it has high performance exhaust manifolds on her, and if original, late 60s to early 70s engine, the engine code stamped on a flat pad at the left side water pump inlet on the block will tell you what she really is, along with the engine numbers cast into the left side of the engine.
The distributor cap should have a little cast notch in the plastic that will index onto the distributor housing, a clamp snaps onto the edge of the cap, one on either side of the cap/distributor housing.
You can get early wiring diagrams online for free, suggest something like 1968 Dodge Coronet/Charger or Dart. They are pretty simple and all wired the same, but it definitely needs to be completely redone, along with your vacuum hoses.
You have a bit of work before firing her up, so take your time and do it right once, instead of fighting problems one at a time.
i need to move this asap winters around the corner fall showers have begun and it dont take long to turn to snow here. if i get the rad hoses fixed and coolant i should be ok with gravity feed bottle of fuel to move it a couple miles even with vacume leaks or would i risk damage to the motor with vacuum leaks? i know vacuum leaks can make things cantankerous

ill look at the stamp closer on the block beside the water pump noticed it but burried in oil atm

found the clips on the dizzy last night when i went to try start it then found the trucks harnes is as bad a mess inside the cab splices all over.

ill look into the diagrams u suggest txs for some ideas to fallow

what size of vacuum line should i get i dont got the luxery of walking into a store to buy this stuff being in a remote part of canada and amazon wont ship here.
I will mention a couple of things (a) distributor should have an oil cup, engine oil into it as the upper bushing only gets oil that way (b) plug wires, #7 wire is roughly 7 feet long and runs down the inside of the driver's side valve cover and around the back of the head and up under the manifold to reach the plug, these originally had some nice hard plastic "bushings" that clipped around the wires and snapped into brackets. These B/RB engines are extremely hard on plug wires due to heat and location.
oil cup mean like adding oil like on a tone wheel hammond organ?

the valve cover on driver side still has its clips passenger side wire is damaged for #8 taped up so prolly should get all new ones for it long term.





 

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Not familiar with tone wheel Hammond Organ, AMPICO model A and B reproducing pianos, yes. Older electric motors used to have oil cups for the bearings. Chrysler distributors had them for the upper bushing. When I had my shop, we rebuilt a load of them as very few places did oil them during a tune up (we did).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
tx for the tip on oiling that see what i can find guesing regulr engin oil?
 

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That was what we used in them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thxs for the pointers though guys actualy having some fun goal try and get it outa its spot under its own power though if i have to have it towed i can rather not. but its looking like i will have to winters comming and i got a garage for her to spend the winter. didnt expect it to have what it did for a motor. figured be a simple inline 6 or somthing o well been eyeing it for few yrs and for 200 bucks i couldnt go wrong for a couple yr project to putter at.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Older electric motors used to have oil cups for the bearings. Chrysler distributors had them for the upper bushing. When I had my shop, we rebuilt a load of them as very few places did oil them during a tune up (we did).
Not many techs look for grease fittings anymore either. I stopped greasing door hinges & check arms unless I noticed a noise or was asked to. The grease was unsightly IMO.

Many later distributors had a felt under the rotor for a couple of drops of oil. I would pull the dipstick and touch the tip to the felt for oiling.
A clean, lightly greased point cam lobe is important as a dry one can cause point rubbing block wear. As the gap gets smaller, the dwell angle gets bigger...until the points don't open any more.

 

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You could always try starting it by running a wire from the positive post on the battery to the positive post on the coil and then jumping the starter relay.
 

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Not many techs look for grease fittings anymore either. I stopped greasing door hinges & check arms unless I noticed a noise or was asked to. The grease was unsightly IMO.

Many later distributors had a felt under the rotor for a couple of drops of oil. I would pull the dipstick and touch the tip to the felt for oiling.
A clean, lightly greased point cam lobe is important as a dry one can cause point rubbing block wear. As the gap gets smaller, the dwell angle gets bigger...until the points don't open any more.

IC, directly under the coil lead on the side of the distributor in your picture, you can see the oil cap I referenced. Good find sir! Yes, a light coat of grease on the points cam along with some oil on the felt was always a good idea. I always used to give the rotor a twist in the advance direction (counterclockwise in the illustrated distributor) to make sure it was free and would return properly. I also would check the vacuum advance.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You could always try starting it by running a wire from the positive post on the battery to the positive post on the coil and then jumping the starter relay.
theres a relay for the strter? what would that possibly look like?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
IC, directly under the coil lead on the side of the distributor in your picture, you can see the oil cap I referenced. Good find sir! Yes, a light coat of grease on the points cam along with some oil on the felt was always a good idea. I always used to give the rotor a twist in the advance direction (counterclockwise in the illustrated distributor) to make sure it was free and would return properly. I also would check the vacuum advance.
you mean the thing with a line coming out ofi t that looks like a vacume pluger?
 
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