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Sounds like your battery is low. I'd suggest a HOT battery with at least 12.5 volts in it. Timing may be off as the slow cranking just doesn't sound right. Have you checked the points and spark plugs for a good, blue white colored spark? That's what you need. Orange/yellow spark will not fire that engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Sounds like your battery is low. I'd suggest a HOT battery with at least 12.5 volts in it. Timing may be off as the slow cranking just doesn't sound right. Have you checked the points and spark plugs for a good, blue white colored spark? That's what you need. Orange/yellow spark will not fire that engine.
wasnt aware there was different colour of spark till now

no idea how to check timing
and i dont think i have power to the dizy hooked up yet :S ?
 

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You need to find start and run signals from your truck’s wiring.
 

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2017 Ram 1500 3.6 Crew
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If he has points and does not have a starter relay that bypasses the resistor during cranking, spark will be weak.
 

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Good point, 68RT. It's been a LOOOOONNNNGGGG time since I fooled with anything that had points and a moveable distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
so for powering the dizy im still bit confused. prolly searching the wrong thing as i honstly never delt with car electrical till this point
 

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Pull the distributor cap and look inside. Most likely points. Roll the engine over until the timing marks line up with the zero and see if the rotor points to number one or number 6 (180 degrees out). If it does, timing is pretty close to start with. Now, with a wire to the positive post on the coil and to the battery positive, open and close the gap on the points and see if there is spark there. Utnless the battery is too low, she should start, if there is gas, or starting fluid to assist running. Go from there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
where would you finding timing marks cause im asuming their not like honda where on the flywheel
 

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Behind front pulley on the vibration damper. But check to see if the damper outer ring has slipped due to the age of the rubber inner layer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
forgive me vibration dampner huh? not realy sure what im looking for



and what the diistributer looks like under the cap



determand the battery i have is toast so went hunting for one around town for anyone with an extra as nearest store that sells them is 400kms away found something but was to dark to go back and play around though it did start to sound like it tride to do somthing with little wd40 sprayed in the carb. no one sells starter flluid up here i gotta drive 400kms and canada post wont allow stuff like that in the mail
 

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That distributor looks ugly. And, as you can see from the tag on it, it is a rebuilt. I'd be looking very carefully at it to see that both the mechanical and vacuum advances are working correctly and that the shaft is not loose due to worn bushings. Then get new points and condensor.
If you can get Gumout brand carburetor cleaner it makes a fine starting fluid. I don't think that WD40 will work for that. As far north as you are there has to be a supply of ether starting fluid for diesels in your area. I much prefer to use Gumout rather than ether, but you may not have that choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
That distributor looks ugly. And, as you can see from the tag on it, it is a rebuilt. I'd be looking very carefully at it to see that both the mechanical and vacuum advances are working correctly and that the shaft is not loose due to worn bushings. Then get new points and condensor.
If you can get Gumout brand carburetor cleaner it makes a fine starting fluid. I don't think that WD40 will work for that. As far north as you are there has to be a supply of ether starting fluid for diesels in your area. I much prefer to use Gumout rather than ether, but you may not have that choice.
all they sell in fuel line anti freez and over priced motor oil here

rebuild tag never herd of that befor thought was a brand thing carb has ne on it as well
 

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You have points that look very dirty. They are not expensive and it could not hurt to change. Since you have points, wiring to them should go like this:

Ignition on should send power to the ballast resistor and other end of resistor to positive side of coil. Negative side to distributor and then points.

When starter is engaged, the starter relay should send power to the starter AND power to a second wire attached to the distributor side of the ballast resistor bypassing the resistor when cranking for full coil power during cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
startinging to figure that out last night then my battery went flat in seconds to 12.1v
hard finding info when everything i m able to find refers to 450's 405's 383 builds witch confuses the hell outa me huh.

anything i order will take least 2 weeks to get amazon dont ship here
 

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To make sure you have a good spark on the points, take a fine grit piece of sandpaper, fold it in half (only need about an inch square piece), open the points, put the sandpaper between the contacts and sand it five or six times to clean them up.
Once they are clean, and with the power running from the coil to the battery and distributor, you should be able to take a screwdriver and stick it between the arm of the points, twist the screwdriver gently and open and close them and get a spark. This is the best and fastest way to check that they are working

The harmonic balancer is on the front of the crankshaft, a pulley is bolted to it for the fan belts. The balancer is about an inch thick and there is a groove running front to back, then there should be a piece of sheetmetal welded to the timing cover that has some tiny numbers and lines on it to line them up to the groove on the balancer. Rotate the engine over by hand until the groove lines up with the 0 (zero) on the sheetmetal indicator to get timing close.
 
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
finest grit i can get is 200 that should be ok?

this the balancer then?
now that ive blown up the image i notice the mrkings on the block plate


whats this go to?


im asuming this was the fuel line?




can see where it screws in upper left
what this tag all about says 440 is 268 01




thought i took a pic but gues not theres some sorta linkage that comes up from the transmision shifter? that doesnt seem to do anything as the travel it has is longer then the ability for it to push on the carbs pivit point? has a big spring atached to one end to a bracketoff the head as well
 

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There's a slot on the damper which should be TDC, but you'll need to check that to see that the damper hasn't slipped. Vacuum port on carb would go to brake booster. That is the fuel line. Best to replace that with a rubber line from the pump and use and inline filter before the carb. If it's a Chrysler automatic there should be a link from the left side of the carb, not the right side in the pic and I think I see one.
 

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You will see the deep cut groove for the timing of top dead center (or 180 degrees out, no big deal right now), just rotate the engine and line that up on the little hole on the indicator. The vacuum port should go to the hose in the third picture just aboe your hand that attaches to the PCV in the valve cover, it sucks fumes and pressure from inside the engine during rotation to keep it from going outside and into the atmosphere (and idle when running). Check the carb for any other vacuum locations that may not have anything attached to them. Fuel line noted in third picture, and the kickdown rod does move like that and not do anything when not running. When the throttle is pushed it will move the rod and increase the pressure inside the transmission in relation to the throttle amount used so the trans will shift, kick down, and basically increase transmission fluid pressure to the clutches and bands as needed. Don't worry about it for now, we can deal with that later.
 

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Ahhh, missed the PCV port., brake booster would come off of manifold.
 
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