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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
txs for the answers guys helpfull


so dont worry about the link from the trans for now.

how does one know what setting the transmisions in theres just a stick that moves back and for easly and i dunno witch ones park ect as i drive stick normaly
actualy 3 sticks ones not hooked up i see what it goes to on the transfercase figgure that one out once i know its running.

got a battery trickle charging for the night hopefully this ones good. play around tomarrow eve after work

no idea what condition the fuel tanks in might just rig up a jerry can to move it. got a low flow fuel pump i use for moving deseal at the cabin for the oil stove.
 

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The moving rod on the carb is for shifting, not the shift/gear selector. On the transmission, driver's side, there are two levers on the front part above the trans oil pan. They are horizontal. The shorter of the two (on top) is for the line pressure which goes to the carb, and its movement is in relation to the gas pedal and controls the shifting from 1, 2, 3 based on the amount of gas you give it, along with kicking down to pass. That's what the rod to the carb does, not change gears. The lower lever controls the shift position, all the way forward should be park, all the way back, first gear.
If the kickdown rod is too loose on the carb it will simply shift by itself, no matter how much gas you give it, from first to second to third at around 5, 10 and 20mph on its own, and that will get you to your garage safely. Long term damage could be caused if not adjusted correctly as I said in that it controls the line/internal pressure of the fluid to the clutches and bands, whereas cruising will give (for example) 90psi to engage and hold the clutches and bands, more gas to go faster or pull/making more torque to haul something will increase that pressure to (for example) 150psi. Doing the latter with 90psi may not be enough to haul and make the torque necessary to hold the clutches/bands and could cause slip, which would slowly allow them to slip and burn up. Your short trip before adjustment will not cause this kind of damage.

Didn't I see a Navy sticker on the door? A third floor shifter, based on the fact it is an automatic and four wheel drive, you have the transmission itself, the transfer case controls itself (you can look up the three gears and neutral online, the stickshift itself should have the markings like H1, N, L, L2 or something), and a third shifter would probably be for a PTO (power take-off) for something like hydraulics or winch or something like that. Wouldn't worry about it for now. As long as the transfer case is not in neutral you should be able to drive her to the shop without a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
theres no markings for what gears are what on the shifter just a stick

1 2

3

is the lay out of shifters




1 just goes back and forth next to the levers that go up to the carb

2 is stuck no idea what it does has look of muscle car shifter

and there is disconected from a lever on the transfer case from crawling under it to look
3 is also just a cast steel lever someone reused from the mine from something els
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
damn sun lights getting shorter up here 8pm and its dark now managed to sneak in a few minuts during sun down to play around after work only to find the battery i thought was good is not puting any curent out and reading 24V instead of 12 what on earth.
grab my tractor battery and its back at 12.5 so try it get sparks from the coil wire so must be good sign put some gas in the carb and try but not enough juice try charging it one more time and runing set of booster cables over tomarrow and see if it fires hopefully it will move so i can get it out of its spot and get it home
 

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As for the transmission, you have to see if the current transmission is hooked to anything inside. It may not be because if the engine electronics weren’t hooked up the transmission linkage probably wasn’t either.
 

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The connection between tranny and carb is the kickdown/ tranny linepressure control.
- it must be functional once you start driving this thing or the tranny may slip to death quickly.
The quick check is that on wot it pushes the lever on the tranny all way backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
As for the transmission, you have to see if the current transmission is hooked to anything inside. It may not be because if the engine electronics weren’t hooked up the transmission linkage probably wasn’t either.
shifters hooked up.
pedals hooked up

the carb transmision thing is missing some clips
 

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If it has been run without the kick down linkage connected you very likely have a dead transmission already. But you won't know until it's running.
 
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Can't you just drop the driveshaft and pull it to your house/garage?
 

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You need to see if you have spark from the distributor to the spark plugs themselves by removing one spark plug, put it back in the spark plug wire, and holding it against metal, crank the engine over and see if there is spark. If not, verify spark the way I mentioned at the points with a screwdriver with electricity running to the distributor. This way you can rule out spark being the no start issue. A bad condenser (the silver barrel looking thing inside the distributor) will prevent spark, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Can't you just drop the driveshaft and pull it to your house/garage?
tight spot be easyer to drive it out if i got it running
If it has been run without the kick down linkage connected you very likely have a dead transmission already. But you won't know until it's running.
no idea never seen this befor on a transmision figured id ask as was weird.

ill get photo of the inkage as it is now
 

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It's been a LOOOOONNNNGGGG time since I fooled with anything that had points and a moveable distributor.
The procedure hasn't change one bit. Remove old points and usually the condenser (2 or three screws unless dual points). Clean the old grease off the cam and put new grease on the cam to reduce rubbing block wear. Install new points and condenser. Rotate engine till cam lobes have opened the points to the maximum and set gap using a totally clean feeler gauge of the correct thickness and secure points. Start and reset the timing as needed. If doing an install on an engine that has not been started or distributor removed, a good preset can be done by lining up the timing marks BY ROTATING IN THE DIRECTION OF ROTATION until marks are lined up. Loosen the distributor clamp and rotate backward until points are fully closed and then turn on the ignition. Slowly rotate the distributor housing in opposite rotation until the points just open. You can tell that position by removing the coil wire from the distributor and having the end near a ground area. It should spark at the exact moment the points open. Repeat if necessary to get that point and secure the distributor clamp. You should end up within a couple of degrees of perfect before starting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
old owner who put the motor in had a few minuts to chat this morning eyes lit up when i asked about the old truck said it was running when parked damn good 4x4 he said just that he put a stupid amount of miles on it. figures its got lots life in it kinda regrets selling to the guy that parked it been sso busy with work getting home after dark this week
 

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KOG
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Now you have someone who can explain the shifters to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
yea i just gotta catch him when hes not out in the bush hauling gravel
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
this battery situation is annoying wound up running jumpers from the ram to the battery leads to test boom 3rd spin it ignited brefily and then again and again but spotty witch i know the plug wires are iffy at best but it definatly wants to run so success just time to find some carbles
 

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Is that running off a gas can or starting fluid? Make sure to disconnect the fuel line from the gas tank. You don't want that nasty old gas running through the carburetor. I suspect the tank will need to be cleaned and the carb rebuilt, but one step at a time. Kudos to you for getting it to fire off!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
fuel line is not hooked to anything

no one sellls starting fluid up here so i poored some gas in the carb
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
well that was comical wound up pulling the battery outa the ram to get it going then had to run the ram via booster cables but had to use the crv to boost the ram via another set of booster cables as battery had gotten low to start the ram battery siting in the truck but after getting that sorted got this one going right away sounded happy didnt bring the camera also sitting in gear and tride to move its self that was interesting so changed gear then tride going backwards then tride another spot and apeares to be in park. so thats a good sign

ran it just squirting gas in the barel of the carb.
got a boat tank im going rig up to feed the float boul. didnt smoke sounded happy no miss fireing
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
with a boat tank on the roof hooked to the carb it fired right away no issues
almost got it free from its ruts need to go back with a shuvil as i wound up spining the back tires and it does rock back and forth just the 2 front wheels are 2 deep in the ground with out some assistance
 
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