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Discussion Starter #1
I have installed a 360 into my 1975 Valiant. I left the slant 6 k-member in place and used Schumacker's motor mounts.
This is the first time I have taken on this type of a project and I am fearing that I'm in way over my head.
I was told to install the motor and then the tranny. The motor is in, but it is not sitting square inside the compartment. Right to left is not out of level to bad, but front to back is way off. If I jack it up level then how do I get the tranny connected?

Should the hole motor be level, or is there supposed to be pitch?
How can I make the motor sit square inside the compartment ?
Does anyone have some tricks to save me?
 

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Actually, if the motor mounts have been installed correctly, there is an offset to one side in the engine bay. They started doing this around the early 60s to give the side to side balance and the driver a couple extra inches of clearance for the pedals. Now, highly recommend removing the engine and attaching the transmission to it, then (I figure you have the hood off), remove the transmission crossmember (couple bolts on either side of it to the unibody), jack the front of the car up about 18-24 inches, slide the whole thing in, raise the transmission tail up and install the transmission crossmember, goes in a whole lot easier that way. From there you will be able to tell any offsets, which in the past, Schumacher has been really good with their adapter motor mounts. Doing it this way also helps prevent that 100+ transmission from being a bear when installing on the floor (it isn't that fun).
 

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Make sure you have the correct mount on the correct side. The engine, as Dana said, should locate slightly to the passenger side. When installing the torque converter, it is not fully seated until you feel two distinct thumps as it enters the tranny. Make sure you put a quart of tranny fluid into the TC before mounting it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I spent half the day trying to get the tranny in, with no luck. I'm going to pull the motor next weekend and do as dana44 suggested.
Even if I have to remove the radiator bracket, it will still be easier than what I've been through this weekend.

The back of the motor is only an 1" off the fire wall. Is that normal? The distributor and wiper motor touch.

Tazdevil what do you mean by dump a quart of tranny fluid into the TC? Is the fluid being used a lubricant ?

The flexplate bolts that I used hit the block so I ground they down to fit. Now they are different lengths. On average an 1/8" different.
Do you think that this could cause a balance problem, or am I over thinking it?
Thanks for the help.
 

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To the OP: the 360 was a factory option in the 1974-76 Mopar A body so you may be wise in picking up a factory service manual to guide you through the 'PITA' issues unless you can get someone to walk you through any possible pitfalls. :)
 

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If the torque converter bolts are hitting the block the torque converter is not engaged properly. When properly engaged in the front pump (this can be fun), with the torque converter removed (and front seal replaced of course), look at the two notches on the hub of the torque converter. Then look into the front of the transmission and locate two tabs inside the front pump. This helps line the two up, wiggle, push and jiggle, until the torque converter goes all the way in, past the front edge of the transmission (it sits about one inch inside the front edge of the transmission case). Replace the bolts, they are cheap, as the transmission torque converter itself is balanced with a big counterweight. If not there, it is a 318 torque converter, so let us know if that is present. So, if the bolts have been ground down because it isn't properly engaged it will damage the torque converter or the front pump, or if enough pressure it on it, not engage and destroy the transmission within minutes of starting, so fix that properly. As far as the clearance goes, if the trans isn't holding the engine at the right angle, yes, these parts can touch. Without the transmission mounted you don't know for sure if it is correct or not. Not sure if the radiator support is removable, but you shouldn't have to with the car raised, the transmission tipped down and the rear lifted by hand (it's a balancing thing when installing), it should correct this issue. Get that torque converter installed properly and get the new bolts to correctly balance it, which could make a vibration, the counterweight is about 3-4 ounces, so a quarter ounce could cause a vibration.
 

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You put tranny lube in the TC because you do not want it dry when starting the first time. Dry starts hurt seals. Be sure to plug the output shaft hole in the trans before tilting it down. The fluid will pour out if it has fluid in it. Correct engine/trans location after the rear mount is in it's proper place is around 2-3 inches from firewall to distributor cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The bolts that are wrong and hitting was for the flex plate. I ordered 1/2" ones today. Not worth the risk of damage for 15.00.
I'm using a TCI stall converter. It came with installation instructions and from what I've read I think I've installed it correctly.
I am going to remove it and add the tranny flued.
I talked with Schumacker's today and they said it is not uncommon for a motor to sit cockeyed. As long as the tranny mount lines up then everything should be ok.
I'll let you guy know how I make out.
Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Installed the tranny and motor as one piece like you guys suggested. It could not have gone smother.
Everything lined up and even the motor is sitting square.
It took longer to bolt the tranny onto the motor than to install it.
Thanks again for the help.
 

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Any time, and glad it went smooth. Got that torque converter in all the way and seated properly?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I kept checking to make sure it was al the way in. I check the distance with the directions that TCI sent.
Had to pull it forward about a 1/4" to meet up with the flex plate.
Thanks again.
 
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