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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
ImperialCrown said:
The 4-digit 'secret key' SKIM ID # has to be entered into the new PCM. I have replaced PCMs before without having to replace the SKIM module.
This ID entry can be done with the DRB III. The new SKIM will need it's 'secret key' ID # entered into the new PCM as well.
Do they have access to dealer information?
Be careful using an independent shop for this kind of work.
The Chrysler dealer is the one doing all of the scanning. The "shop" was troubleshooting the electrical issue as well as part replacing. If the SKIM and PCM are matching already, will they still require the secret key ID, and won't the chrysler dealer be able to obtain that?

thanks
 

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Yes the dealer should be able to load the secret key ID into either module with the scan tool.
If the numbers match and the modules shake hands, then everything should be happy to go.
The ID # is accessible to dealers through STAR on dealerconnect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The shop called and we are going this morning to pick the car up. At this point they are 99% sure the problem has been corrected.

Here is a summary of what all they did:

Replaced Instrument cluster
Replaced PCM and SKIM modules
Replaced wiring harness from Cluster to PCM
Reprogrammed the modules


Before replacing modules, they removed the main modules and had they sent out for independent testing and determined the PCM and Cluster were bad this way.

I hope this helps anyone else having the issue, and it will certainly give you a place to start if you experience similar.

I will update if the problem is not fixed, otherwise solution found.
 

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OMG...I am going thru this same thing right now & its pure torture! Unfortunately I've paid for it too in more than 1 way (if you know what I mean).
I've got a 2009 PT and I'm just glad to see that you have had some success in finding out what the issue is because I've had none. I can't wait for your next update.

And by the way - thanks for keeping such good notes and detailing your experiences. Non-technical folks like me not only appreciate your detailing the problem but also all of the good advice given here in the forum by the more seasoned mechanical types - your inputs are in fact read and appreciated. Thanks to all!
 

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I also have a 2004 PT with the same identical problem and it is driving me insane. Tach drops, temp drops, CEL comes on and so on and so on. I have pulled the cluster inspected and resoldered a few cold solder joints, pulled multiple harness apart, reseated many grounds even tried a rebuilt PCM to no avail. The final repairs that were made on your BK6797 PT did they cure your problems and if so what do you think was the ultimate fix. I do still have a couple of harnesses to take apart and check but at this point I am not sure what I am looking for such as an open ground or an open or short in the buss line which it seems all of the affected sensors and or dash cluster have in common. Any help or suggestions you could give would be appreciated so I don't commit suicide by PT Cruiser
 

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This is like a broken record that skips. and skips. and skips. Dealer has no idea, replaced the electrics (but not the mechanics) of the ignition yesterday. Can get the cluster back by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. No problem with starting the car, and it has never died on me. Chrysler says no recall, but it seems to me that this is a safety issue.
 

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This is like a broken record that skips. and skips. and skips. Dealer has no idea, replaced the electrics (but not the mechanics) of the ignition yesterday. Can get the cluster back by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. No problem with starting the car, and it has never died on me. Chrysler says no recall, but it seems to me that this is a safety issue.
Dead instrument clusters are often caused by poor solder connections. Check the solder connections on the back of the cluster and reflow any that show signs of poor connection.
The cluster failing may cause a communications failure that can keep the car from running.
 

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I have done quite a bit of reading. 2005PT Turbo ragtop. The issue in my vehicle is not a hard wire issue, it is a shut off issue. Or perhaps I would call it an inhibition issue, in that something trips the shut off, but it can be reset. Cluster gone, but able to reset (temporarily) with a cold reset. Here was my answer, it may not last long, but it is worth a try:
Disconnect black lead on battery, then disconnect red.
Clean posts and connector with a post cleaner (they have both male and female components for cleaning both)
Reconnect red, then black.
This will be a cold reset, and if the problem is as above, the cluster now comes to life (or it did in my circumstance, maybe not yours). Like magic. No cluster disconnection, no dash removal, etc. So that would say to me that there is not a hard wire issue, nothing broken, nothing "loose".
But don't stop there.
Put the key in the ignition, do not turn key
Hold down the odometer reset button, then turn key to on position, may have to turn the motor on, but not likely
Keep the reset button held in, the computer does a self check and a reset, going through all of the numbers individually on the odometer, then several codes. 10 to 20 seconds, be patient as long as numbers and codes are changing on the display.
Finally it goes back to the odometer reading.
Done.
If this works, please let me know at [email protected] If it doesn't, let me know what your cure is.
The dealerships don't seem to be able to figure this one out (codes may not read, and if they do they tell you that there is a communication problem, but not where it is), called Chrysler and was not able to speak with a tech, just an online chat call centre individual. So that got me no where, but they did call the dealership where I had a new ignition put in yesterday (This as well was one of the listed cures but was not the solution for me) and suggested I have a computer scan. See above, and see all of the other owners' experience in this forum. The lasts suggestion was a new integrated power unit, 800 dollars more or less, two hours installation. But no guarantees. See previous comments from other owners.
Good luck anyone who is having this problem.
Michael
 

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The dealerships don't seem to be able to figure this one out (codes may not read, and if they do they tell you that there is a communication problem, but not where it is), called Chrysler and was not able to speak with a tech, just an online chat call centre individual.
The cluster going out can be the communication issue. It's a simple thing to check the solder joints on it compared to replacing other parts.
In other words, the cluster may be the cause of the communication error, not that the cluster is going dead from a communications issue.
 

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Thanks. Does this mean that I have to take all of the dash out as suggested on several youtube videos? BTW my "fix" only worked for a couple of hours. In the dark again.
 

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If the communications bus is going down, the problem has to be hunted down while it is still in failure. If it isn't in failure or starts working while you are working on it, there may be fault codes stored, but no real diagnostic clues other than that.
There is no magic tool to tell you where (underhood or underdash?) the problem is.
It has to be located methodically by isolating one module and portion of a wiring harness at a time. You will need wiring diagrams, a meter and probably removal of some interior trim.
Corrosion, dampness or poor connections are the most common failures. The low bus currents are very sensitive to electrical leakage. The modules (including the cluster) usually hold up pretty well.
The ignition switch and steering column wiring can fail. Sometimes gently moving the tilt-column up or down or gently moving the key slightly towards 'off' or 'start' will cause things to work again.
 

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If the dealership tells me that I must replace the integrated power supply/module, will this likely fix all of my problems. BTW, the cluster has been working without disruption for the last week. Go figure. But I know that it is fooling myself to think that there has been some sort of divine intervention or miraculous healing of connections.
 

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If the dealership tells me that I must replace the integrated power supply/module, will this likely fix all of my problems. BTW, the cluster has been working without disruption for the last week. Go figure. But I know that it is fooling myself to think that there has been some sort of divine intervention or miraculous healing of connections.
Sounds like they are willing to gamble with your money. What makes them so sure that module is bad?
 

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While trying to diagnose this issue it appears that Iam getting a voltage drop at battery from 13.50 down to 12 volts when this happens . Possibility bad alternator and the computer picking up drop causing this prioblem
 
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