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Well Troy, if you're really bad at fixing cars, you're in good company at least! I had very similar problems on my '95 Spirit. I replaced the fuel pump and relay only to have a completely bizarre no-start. Turns out, I had removed my bulkhead disconnect in an attempt to install a trip computer and not tightened the screw enough, leaving an intermittent connection. It sounds like you've got the same issue. I don't think the Sundance was available with engines that had cam or crank sensors; both the 2.2/2.5 and the 6G72 used distributor pickups. The ECU shouldn't be looked at as a problem until all the wiring checks out. If the car started and ran, it's most likely good (99% chance). Make sure you're actually dealing with a fueling issue too, see if you can get the car to start on ether, carb cleaner, or a little bit of gas. If not, you're not getting spark. Electrical gremlins are a MAJOR PITA and really require a very thorough diagnostic process. Keep at it, and you'll find it.
 

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See if you can get the pump to run by jumping the relay terminals going to it. That could help rule out the pump relay. Also check for voltage at the pump with the car cranking. Voltage COULD mean a bad pump; they do very very occasionally fail pretty quickly, but it's a HUGE off chance. That being said, it certainly sounds like a wiring issue to me. You messing with the car moves something enough to make passable contact. I would try probing the pump wires at the bulkhead disconnect. That way you can at least figure out if the problem is in front of the firewall or behind it. If you disconnect the connector, make sure that bolt is in there tight. Close enough really isn't good enough with that, as I've experienced firsthand...
If the car will start with cleaner/gas, the ASD is closing. The ASD completes the circuit to the fuel pump relay as well as to the primary on the coil. If the ASD isn't closing, there's no possibility for spark. The questions you want to answer are:
Is the fuel pump relay closing, reliably, every time? If it is, is the power going INTO the relay and coming OUT the other side? If the power is coming out, is it getting to the fuel pump? The way I would go about this is to wait until the car won't start, and then start probing, jumping and testing. Try to simulate as many components of the circuit as you can. Clean and check all connectors. Jostle the car around and see if you can get something to change (i.e. go from starting to not starting or vice versa), and then see if there's one specific area that you can move to cause a change. Like I said, wiring is a MAJOR PITA.
 

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The ASD really has nothing to do with automatically shutting down the engine. It has no way of detecting an unsafe or potentially damaging condition; the electronics just aren't that sophisticated. It's really more of an anti-run on relay than anything else. It kills fuel delivery and spark to ensure that the engine shuts down when you tell it to. Chrysler often uses weird names for things or holds over names that really no longer describe the function of the component or system; this may be one of those cases. While loose fuel lines are certainly a safety hazard, I still think you have an electrical problem.
 

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dc8flyer- The factory issued service manuals (you'll see them referred to on here as "FSM"s or Factory Service Manuals) in sets of three for the FWD cars. There was a manual for engine, chassis and body, one for electrical, fuel and emissions and one set of factory wiring diagrams. Here's a link to all three: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Chrysler-Dodge-Service-Manual-Set-3-Daytona-Le-Baron-New-Yorker-/201037369408?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item2ecec2d040&vxp=mtr . The full set is nice, but if you just want the engine manual, there's one listed here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge-factory-service-manual-front-wheel-drive-car-/380585884285?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item589cafba7d&vxp=mtr . I have a full set of 1992 manuals, but there were significant changes between '87 and '92. I can still scan you a few pages from mine and email them to you if you would like, just PM me.


troy-- Are you sure your fuel is getting to the injector? Try disconnecting the fuel lines at the TB and running the pump with a bucket to catch any gas that comes out. Also do a pressure check; I don't have my manual in front of me, but I think the pressure should be somewhere in the 16-18 pound range for TBI. If you're getting fuel to the injector and the pressure is good, the next step would be to connect a 12V lightbulb across the injector terminals in the cap. If there's power getting there, the issue is in the injector itself. If there's no power at the injector, there's a break somewhere or there's something wrong with the ECU. I only mention the ECU because of the surging issue. The surging COULD be because of a failing voltage regulator, which lives in the ECU. If one portion of the ECU is POSSIBLY bad, it's not too much of a leap to assume that the fueling issues COULD be related (bad solder joints can be abundant in older Chrysler electronics, depending on the supplier). The reason for all the capitalization? I find that many, many people equate the computer being a potential, but unlikely suspect with the computer needing replacement. Nine times out of ten, it's a waste of money. However, because you're potentially dealing with two circuits that run through the ECU, I think that the computer might actually be at fault here. You'll need to do a charging/voltage regulator test as described in the FSM. If the regulator tests bad, I would replace the ECU before pursuing any of the other issues. Worse comes to worst, you ended up replacing a part that was actually bad. The most important thing is a thorough diagnosis.
 
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