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I have had EGRs fail without setting a fault code. It would likely be a stall at idle and not while driving down the road.
If it opened at low-speeds, it might cause a sputter, but it wouldn't be like someone just turning off the key.
There are generic data recorders. Some of the higher-end scan tools incorporate a data recorder.
 

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Our 4.0 litre van always stalled while driving never while idling, my mother in law was so afraid to drive it that she bought a Grand Cherokee, which is how I can to inherit the vehicle. My father in law already replaced the y connection above the egr valve with a connector from Home Depot and after I replaced egr valve no more problems.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Gesture Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks for that Jeff. I had a look, and my 4L doesn't have that y connector, nor any coolant line above the EGR. The EGR is supposed to be here tomorrow, so I'm hoping to get it installed within a couple of days after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well, it took some hand acrobatics, but after 30 minutes, I got the EGR replaced. I'll be starting to drive it tomorrow or Wednesday, and will post back with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
No luck with the EGR replacement. It ran perfectly for about 2 hours of driving, then stalled as I was pulling into my driveway. As usual, it started up again on the first try. I'm now at the point of either selling it to someone who wants to spend the time finding the problem (which I'm now almost sure is some obscure electrical problem), or looking into getting a real time OBD scanner. I'm heavily leaning toward selling it.
 

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Sounds like a coil opening up when hot. See if you can check electrical resistance of the primary windings when cold, and then as fast as you can after it stalls out. Thermal expansion may be opening a defective wire.
 

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On the minivans, the crank position sensor would often become temperature sensitive and not leave a code when it failed. But it's odd it would recover so quickly it would start right back up.
Another odd thing that caused frustration was the instrument cluster. When they failed due to bad solder joints, it sometimes shut the vans down.

I know yours isn't a van, but the early Pacifica shared a lot with the van.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Definitely a candidate for a data recording. It is probably the most sensible path for troubleshooting this type of failure.
Too sporadic and intermittent to have a tech standing there waiting for it to stall.
I wouldn't suggest buying a data recording device for this one-time repair. Find a shop that has one and is reasonable to deal with for a diagnosis. Dealers may be the most familiar with your car, but good techs are found everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
It seems the random warning lights (antiskid / catalytic converter / electronic throttle, etc), could very well be related to the stall. I would have to do more driving to confirm it, but it looks as though the random warning lights appear, followed by the stall. I believe this is further evidence of an electrical issue, perhaps even the pcm/ecu?? Also, to reiterate, when the stall occurs, the engine can be immediately restarted on the first try. I'll still consider the data recording, but wouldn't that be pointless if the issue is electrical?
 

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It may help. The more clues, the better.
ABS/ESC lights might mean fault codes are stored in the ABS module. These are not likely read by an OBD2 scanner as they are 'chassis' codes and not OBD2 codes.
If the warning lights are related to the stall, then the recorder can be programmed to look for 'MIL request on' and give a reason for it being on.
If a branch of the electrical system is dropping out that powers the modules, I would expect to see 'loss of communication' faults in the various modules on the CAN bus network.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions, but I've decided to sell it to someone who has the the time and skills to pursue it further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Since I wrote the post about giving up, I received some new information, and a major clue:

I was under the impression that it stalls while driving at city speed, but through further discussion with the owner, she indicated it only stalled when she was going very slow and braking. For example, almost stopped at a light, or when it stalled on me while braking to get into my driveway. So it's the gas pedal release or the applied brakes at really low rpm which initiates the stall. If it's the brake action, then maybe a vacuum leak? If it's the gas pedal release action, maybe the gas pedal extender (which is quite heavy), is not allowing the pedal sensor to "zero out"??? Keep in mind that the stalling didn't start until after I installed the pedal extenders. I don't know if that's just a coincidence, but I'll take off the pedal extenders and see what happens.
 

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Has nothing to do with gas pedal itself. But this is new info that it started after installing pedal extenders. You may have damaged or crossed some wiring in doing so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Has nothing to do with gas pedal itself. But this is new info that it started after installing pedal extenders. You may have damaged or crossed some wiring in doing so.

I don't know how I could have damaged or crossed wiring, but I did have to drill 4 small holes in each pedal to attach the brackets. Please don't tell me there's wiring in the pedal itself that I drilled through :)
 

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I would think that there would be APPS or ETC faults if the APPS wiring was damaged. The PCM monitors and controls engine idle speed and would not allow a stall. Instead of an IAC, I believe that the ETC opens the throttle blade slightly to admit air.
The throttle blade should 'sweep' the bore at key-on as a self-cleaning procedure. Carbon build-up on between the blade and bore might restrict air passage and choke the engine?
I'm now thinking there is an electronic throttle body issue if it can't catch and recover itself in time from an RPM drop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
I would think that there would be APPS or ETC faults if the APPS wiring was damaged. The PCM monitors and controls engine idle speed and would not allow a stall. Instead of an IAC, I believe that the ETC opens the throttle blade slightly to admit air.
The throttle blade should 'sweep' the bore at key-on as a self-cleaning procedure. Carbon build-up on between the blade and bore might restrict air passage and choke the engine?
I'm now thinking there is an electronic throttle body issue if it can't catch and recover itself in time from an RPM drop.
In my first post I wrote:

I got a mechanic to check for error codes, and an error code was produced for the camshaft position sensor and/or camshaft position sensor circuit. I also started getting a dash warning light for the electronic throttle. I replaced the throttle body and the camshaft position sensor, but the problem remains.

The next step I'll be doing is removing the extenders. If the stall remains after that, I'll do a lot of stops to find out if the stall is initiated by releasing the gas pedal or applying the brakes. One of those initiates the stall, but only at very low rpm (almost stopped).
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I believe the stalling that was occurring when almost at a stop has been solved. I have been driving it extensively for the last 4 days, and tried repeatedly to repeat the stall...but a stall never happened. All I did 4 days ago was (long story short), poured in a liter of a transmission cleaner / conditioner. The stall only occurred when almost at a stop at a red light or stop sign, when the engine was at idle rpm and the transmission was "winding down". It seems as though in that moment of low rpm, the transmission was causing some sort of "drag" on the low rpm engine that was causing the stall. Either that. or the cleaner revived the solenoids in the transmission? Either way, that transmission cleaner solved the low rpm stall.
 

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That would seem to be a lockup converter not unlocking.
 

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I have had lock-up torque converters cause a stall when coming to a stop.
Is this a 6-speed (62TE)? I would do a drain/refill with a new filter and ATF+4.
There is a screen that can clog (with clutch material) that the torque converter uses as a vent. If it can't vent well, it can stay engaged or partially engaged and stall.
A shift to Neutral as when coming to a stop will prove this, as it will no longer stall.
The clog may bleed off by the time you restart and resume driving.
 

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The 4.0 is a 62TE.
 
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