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I have never had a torsion bar break on me after owning quite a few of these. I would look into it and make sure that rust is not the problem, but maybe after the high miles this could happen.
Torsion bars tend to break when the cars sit long periods of time.
I've had them break on two cars when they were stored over the winter. One of them was a relatively low mileage (80k mile) 15 year old Cordoba.
If this is really a 51k mile car (or even a 151k mile car), it sat a lot.
 

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I have never had a torsion bar break on me after owning quite a few of these. I would look into it and make sure that rust is not the problem, but maybe after the high miles this could happen.
We had the left torsion bar snap on my mom's 66 Belvedere wagon in 1977 while parked in the garage. Had about 100K miles on it.
 

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I was told the bar was broken, current owner suggested welding it together with a ring in the middle of the break. I would prefer not to.
You cannot repair them, replace is the only option. I would not let this person handle the repair.
 

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You may have to replace them as a set since one side will probably be higher than the other if you replace just one. They are side specific marked R & L on the end.
 

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Yes, replace. Don't weld. Really should be no problem finding used torsion bars from a Mopar junkyard. The factory used several variations of "firmness' on the torsion bars. You'll probably only find the V8 spec ones available new. That would improve handling some, or find a set of used slant 6 bars for a slightly better ride.
30 years ago; I swapped in the Torsion bars from a 1974 Dart 318 car into a 1965 Barracuda 273 car, it didn't hurt the ride at all but, the older car def handled better.
 

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Side note here: IF that 1975 Valiant has front disc brakes; that'll up the value significantly IMHO between much better stopping ability and the much more common 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern wheels. The front drum brake A body Darts/Valiants all had the oddball 5 x 4" bolt circle with thinner wheel studs to boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
It does have the disc brakes; that is part of why I am interested in the vehicle. As a newb to Chrysler vehicles, this might seem like a dumb question, but the torsion bars are underneath the car, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
That makes sense, doesn't look like a bad piece of work to do; what size torsion bars will work? Do they need to be the .810" ones or can I use the more common larger ones?
 

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That makes sense, doesn't look like a bad piece of work to do; what size torsion bars will work? Do they need to be the .810" ones or can I use the more common larger ones?
Any torsion bar that is the proper A body length will work. In general, the larger the diameter the firmer the ride.
 

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Another newbie question: is a torsion bar the same as a sway bar?
No. The torsion bar absorbs the energy of one wheel (or one side of the suspension) moving up and down. A torsion bar is basically an unwound coil spring.
The sway bar connects to both sides of the suspension to reduce body lean (and help keep both tires on that end of the car firmly planted) in turns.
 

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This is ironic. I bought my 63 Valiant Signet with rust in the trunk and at least 113,000 miles [I think it rightfully was 213,000 given the condition of certain things, appetite for oil, etc.] for $600. But that was back in 1980.

I had the trunk repaired, did the lower rear fenders [one with a patch panel at the same time the trunk was done], new weather stripping and trunk floor mat, etc. It may have been merely months away from the junkyard when I bought it. I still have it.

Lots of aftermarket/reproduction support for 67-76 A Bodies and I've found plenty for 2nd Gen over the years.

Atlas Obsolete is another good source.

That seems like a lot of car for $600 in present day money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Part of the problem for me isn't finding one to work on, as there are plenty of those down here. It's finding one I can afford AND can complete before I leave for college. Talk about excluding necessities.
 

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Part of the problem for me isn't finding one to work on, as there are plenty of those down here. It's finding one I can afford AND can complete before I leave for college. Talk about excluding necessities.
Then I would think this isn't the car for you. You'll still be using your money for "necessities" trying to bring this car up to the level of a reliable [and safe] daily driver and taking away money from your college costs.

You didn't mention your timeline or leaving for college, that changes things quite a bit.

I drove my 63 for several years, just as it was [some suspension repairs]. The object was to find the simplest car that I could work on myself, out of necessity, having little money at the time as well.

The repairs I did over time as money allowed.

Is it really necessary to have a car @ college? Can you live without it and dedicate your money elsewhere, or is that not possible where you're going.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I could live without one, but repairing older machines is something that I do for mental health reasons. I used to do work on older toy trains, but those just don't cut it anymore. I would be heading to college in the fall of 2018.
 

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[QUOTE="valiant67, post: 1084811514, member: 2414"
The sway bar connects to both sides of the suspension to reduce body lean (and help keep both tires on that end of the car firmly planted) in turns.[/QUOTE]

Pretty good definition of an anti-roll bar!!!!

Thanks
Randy
 
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