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Good-looking truck. I agree with those who say keep the engine stock. You can still find parts for the 360, though they're not as common in the junkyards these days. You probably have the Rochester 4-bbl carb. If you can find ethanol-free gas, you're better off using that to keep from rebuilding the carb every year or so. Don't know the octane requirements; you might want to add a booster (xylene works) if you can't find E0 any higher than 87 octane.

According to this, "The 12th-17th numbers are a unique, nonsequential code":

Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth VIN Decoder 1959-2005 (at https://www.allpar.com/mopar/vin-decoder.html )
 

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There's no need to use Ethanol free gas in a carb. vehicle that is driven regularly. I never had issues unless the cars sat with this gas in them.
The biggest downfall of the current power train is low power and high fuel use.
The 1986 360 is rated for 155 horse, 270 torque, and rated for 9/11/10 MPG (city/highway/average).
When they added MPFI and made the Magnum 5.9, 230 horse and 330 torque and gas mileage went up to 10/14/12.

Chrysler was hurting. They had scrapped the big block tooling so the 360 was the best they could offer. The Cummins was still a few years away. This wasn't a great time to be a Dodge truck salesperson.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yep Adverturer55 I guess Dana/spicer built the Dana/Spicer 44 with 4.11s and then the Dana 60 for the rear. It just all makes sense now. So finished everything on the front passenger suspension Now on to the driver side and I have it all apart. The steering gear box is pucking fluid. So rebuild that then bearings and brakes and shocks saving the ball joints and control arm for later?? I feel like I should just do it all while I am here? Right?

Thanks Chris
 

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Yep Adverturer55 I guess Dana/spicer built the Dana/Spicer 44 with 4.11s and then the Dana 60 for the rear. It just all makes sense now. So finished everything on the front passenger suspension Now on to the driver side and I have it all apart. The steering gear box is pucking fluid. So rebuild that then bearings and brakes and shocks saving the ball joints and control arm for later?? I feel like I should just do it all while I am here? Right?

Thanks Chris
Where is the steering box leaking at? The bottom or where the steering column shaft attaches? You also can pop the caps off the front axle spindles and install lock out hubs if they haven't already. It doesn't hurt a thing and saves anything in the front end from turning. If you encounter winter or other slippery times just engage the hubs then the shift on the fly will function normally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well I have all the parts for the driver side now. Can't Seem to find the very most inner seals but they don't look to bad? Everything new on the Passenger front ....Ball Joints,bearings and seals and the Center drive control bar and brakes. The drivers side is all apart now and I did video of every move but never have posted anything before. I did it for me so I could refer back if I had to. Doing the same to the drivers side all new bushings and bearings and brakes and all rubber in the front will be done. I have to rebuild the steering gear box. Looking for videos on how it comes out. Its leaking right where the shaft goes in the top so it all over puking bad. It will be nice to stop the leak and fill it up and clean all of it up. I did paint and clean up a few things on the passenger side so I guess I will take my time and do the same on the drivers side. So next step will be to take the gear box out and start the rebuild kit and see how it goes?? Any input for me guys?

Thanks Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Oh it shifts into 4 Wheel drive on the fly right now. I can go into 4H on the fly under 55 mph but I stop for 4L
IMG_1497.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Here are some pics .... I guess its ok to post these just for questions and stuff? By the way see that steering bar...They are telling me its the same for both axle weights Dana/Spicer 44 (3500 lbs) and the Dana 60 (4500 lbs) But its bigger than the one I have although looks like it might fit? I will pull the old on out and put them side by each and get a pic. Thanks Chris

IMG_1498.jpg
IMG_1499.jpg
IMG_1500.jpg
 

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It appears your steering box is leaking mostly where the steering wheel shaft attaches. There's a seal there that needs replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
It appears your steering box is leaking mostly where the steering wheel shaft attaches. There's a seal there that needs replaced.
I agree with you. I’m trying to find that part but it’s rather difficult I might not even touch the steering box if I could change that Cupler
 

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I agree with you. I’m trying to find that part but it’s rather difficult I might not even touch the steering box if I could change that Cupler
It's a Saginaw steering gear. GM trucks used these as well. The last time I changed one I had to go to Napa and get a seal for a Chevy truck. It fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Yeah from some of the videos I am seeing people just replace with a different u-joint style. I may do that? But I could save money just replacing the seal??
 

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This thing is crying for an RB motor. Low compression runing 440s can he had for a couple hundred bucks these days and with low compression will take small amounts of boost all day. You can walk all over anything on the road for a couple grand. Not to mention run regular gas and haul the family camper (at 6mpg).

I'm currently searching for a first gen ram or older to do a swap with.

Nice truck but it is definitely not a Ramcharger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Need to do a motor swap. I really want to but the one I have 360 is in great shape??? lol
oil about every 4th tank?? I guess I just want something more modern.
 

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Your easiest bet is the find a 1993 5.9 powered Magnum as a donor for engine and transmission. Could probably adapt all the computer controls to your truck, gaining power and economy both.
 
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