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Discussion Starter #1
My car is a 1985 CHrysler Laser 2.2 TBI. I was idling at the cleaners when the car just shut off, like I killed the key
It would not restart. Tried the simple tests for spark and fuel (ether screwdriver etc) and still got nothing.
Tried to obtain fault codes with the ignition key and the power loss light did nothing. It used to work but now zilch
I know the fuel and spark are controlled by the ECM so Im wondering if the remanned computer the presious owner installed died.
ANy suggestions would be greatly appreciated
 

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Welcome to Allpar. You need to first make sure that Battery and Ignition powers as well as good grounds are being supplied to the Power and Logic (if equipped) module connectors before condemning the module. Check fuses.
If you don't have a wiring diagram or service manual with the wire colors and connector pinouts, a large local public library might, or you may find images and information on Google.
 

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That's a likely suspect. When the key is turned to ON, do you hear the fuel pump run for a second or two? Do the gauges respond, and do the other dash warning lights come on (oil pressure, brake)? Does the car crank normally in the START position? Does it start to catch and then die as you release the key?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The car turns over just fine, cranks like it always had. The gauges all respond when the key is flipped on. Warning lights and all. I do hear the pump prime when I turn the key to on before starting.
 

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The Power Loss lamp (as the Check Engine Light was labeled then) may or may not light, as it was attached to a flex circuit and sometimes did not make good contact. The ignition switch may be OK. Remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when the engine is cranked. If not, it's probably a broken or jumped timing belt.
 

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I'm tempted to say that it probably isn't the timing belt. The car would crank erratically (at least one cylinder would be stuck on the compression stroke, causing a "lumpy" cranking as the piston in that cylinder loaded the crankshaft by compressing the air trapped inside). I'm leaning toward a bad HEP, that would kill the ignition and the injector. It can't hurt to take the two minutes to check to make sure the belt is still intact though.
 

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When my timing belt teeth sheared on the last 2.2 I owned, cranking just resulted in the bottom end spinning, with no feel or sound of compression at all.
 

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I'm of the shared opinions of either a bad Hall Effect Switch or busted timing belt too.
 
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