Allpar Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, its been a long time since I haven't been on the forum, but the reason why I had since parted ways with my old 89 Daytona well over 8 years ago.

However Now I'm back since I have a new EEK car, I have a 93 Plymouth Acclaim with a 2.5L auto.

I bought it a year ago, at first I had a blown head gasket, it was a easy repair since I've worked on 2.2/2.5's in the past, and the little car did great. However about 3 months ago she started getting a tick in the valve train, i thought it was something simple like a lifter. As time progressed the tick turned into a knock that got louder as she drove, at that point I knew something wasn't right.

So to make a long story short, pulled the engine out and found rod bearing #4 had spun to a point that the crankshaft is no longer salvageable.

So been looking for a 2.5 engine and strangely these engines are much harder to find now than they were several years ago.

Anywho, I found a used 2.5 engine for a good price, but found a 2.2 engine with a good price and very low miles on it.

My question though will the 2.5 ECM work with a 2.2?

My gut tells me it should since ECM is only looking for a ignition/fuel injector timing from the Distributor and I know the 2.2/2.5 distributors are pretty much all the same.

Has anyone else done a 2.5 to 2.2 swap and kept the same ECM?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,703 Posts
Same years? With or without EGR? It should start OK and run, but not to optimum. The torque curves are slightly different between the 2.2L and the longer-stroke 2.5L. You may not notice this difference.
I briefly installed a '94 PCM on a '92 Shadow and it always had the 'ck eng' light and EGR fault code because there wasn't an EGR on the '92.
 
  • Like
Reactions: valiant67

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,174 Posts
I know of a few examples where 2.5 TBI engines were replaced with 2.2 versions out of desperation and they ran O.K. As the 2.5 is larger the injector pulse width is larger and supplies more fuel than required. Some have no problem adapting so it is possible

I don't believe any Acclaims ever had 2.2 TBI engines so if you weren't satisfied with the outcome you would need a SBEC from a 1993 Shadow/Sundance originally equipped with a 2.2 TBI and same trans as your Acclaim.

Off the line performance will suffer with a 2.2 Automatic in the larger car.

1989-1995 2.5 TBI engines are interchangeable, some accessories and brackets changed but you have your originals.

Good Luck!!

Thanks
Randy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was gonna keep the same intake and exhaust w/egr from the 2.5 engine into the 2.2, I can see the computer having different timing advance between the 2.2 and 2.5 now that you mention it.

Yes, the acclaims never came with any 2.2, only with a 2.5 or 3.0, would be neat to swap it out for a 3.0 but i would have to find a donor car to swap everything, wire, trans, cross member.

This isn't a performance car, just a basic daily diver for work so I'm not looking for crazy performance.

The 2.5 engine i found is cheaper than the 2.2 but I was leaning to the 2.2 just because of the low miles it had for the price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Big update
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
About 2 months ago they had a 1/2 off sale at Pick n Pull (Roosevelt U-Pullit) luckily I found a wrecked Chrysler Labaron convertible with 95K miles on it. Easy pull since it was wrecked in the front and the engine was only held on by 2 motor mounts (3rd trans mount broke off on impact)

Took the time to tear down the engine, inspected and replaced the rod/main bearings, all of them looked very good and all stock dimensions. Honed the glaze out of the cylinder walls and put new rings in the pistons. Pretty much did a top to bottom rebuild except for the head, head I only had it checked for leaks; the head did have cracks on it but not in vital areas. Cleaned up and lapped the valves, new seals all around.

All that being said, engine runs beautifully smooth.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bob Lincoln

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Little issues though, in gear she seems to idle surge lightly, found some vac lines that had been cracked or broken. Replaced and Repaired, idle surge is still there from time to time. Possible idle valve failure?

Now approaching about 1k miles since rebuild and she still apparently loosing oil from somewhere; No external oil leaks, and no blue smoke at start up or driving. Spark plugs look great with no signs of burning oil. Maybe needs more time for rings to break-in?

No matter what people say, I love this little engine and car. It reminds me of my 89 Daytona that had a 2.2 almost 10 years ago, so easy to work on and very nimble little car.

Would be nice to find a turbo 2.5 but thats little bit to ambitious for this daily diver car, haha!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry for breaking this up into sections, the forum kept giving me messages about an script error when I tried to post the entire thing whole.

Photos of build: Lil-Blue Engine Rebuild | Facebook
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
32,332 Posts
I found that from new, oil consumption took 3K miles to drop. At that point it was about 3K miles per quart. My latest Daytona with 257K miles leaks a quart every 1700 miles from the front main seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll have to check the actual milage since the time I've rebuilt the engine. Upon inspection I did notice the PCV valve was saturated with oil, but again, no exhaust smoke to confirm if it was burning it and no external oil leakage too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
That is strange, every time I've rebuilt a 2.2/2.5 they would sip a little bit of oil for around 500 miles but then seal themselves up nice in tight afterwards. Even the turbo ones.
To check your idle surge issue, disconnect the AIS(Idle air control valve) while the engine is running. If the engine dies, it's working, if not, then it's stuck, replace.
As for the oil issue, since it's a rebuild, I would question oil rings.
EBAY is great for parts. I was still able to find FREAKIN fog lights for my shadows which is really hard to find NEW.
I was also able to completly rebuild my entire suspension with EBAY.
Ebay is the way to go lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Since my last post, the car has been eating about 1qt of oil every week. However I went ahead and changed not just the grade but also the type of oil. Initially I started with 10W30 Havoline Synthetic since the rebuild. Every time the car needed oil went ahead and put Valvoline conventional 10w40.

It took about 3 weeks (3qts) but now its drastically stopped eating the oil. Perhaps it needed thicker oil or conventional oil? The engine seems to have little more power so I'm also assuming the rings have finally broken in.

Also, I wanted to ask. How is everyone's gas milage for 2.5's? City i'm getting about 20mpg, but highway I made a trip to Austin and I was shocked that I only got 21mpg?? That don't seem right. I only have a 3-speed trans and I was going about 65-70. Not sure what is the sweet spot for good highway mpg since it still have the stock 14in wheels and 3-speed trans.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,828 Posts
Depends on the car. My Spirit never liked city driving on winter gas and would only give me about 18-19mpg. Highway should be better, north of 25 if you're careful. Even AC on shouldn't bring you down too much below 25.

10W40 is too thick, you should be running a 10W30. Going up 10 on that second number is actually a big change, think of how thick an 80 or 90 (i.e. gear lube) is.

I always liked to cruise at 72 1/2 indicated because my speedo read about three mph low. It's been the same in every Spirit I've driven. Still should return about 25mpg. If you've got the wrong engine controller in there, I would start looking there first. The computers in these cars are pretty robust, so as long as you're in the right year range, it's a fairly safe bet to get one from a JY. Maybe the car that your engine came out of still exists, I would start here.
 

·
Virginia Gentleman
Joined
·
15,021 Posts
Also, I wanted to ask. How is everyone's gas milage for 2.5's? City i'm getting about 20mpg, but highway I made a trip to Austin and I was shocked that I only got 21mpg?? That don't seem right. I only have a 3-speed trans and I was going about 65-70. Not sure what is the sweet spot for good highway mpg since it still have the stock 14in wheels and 3-speed trans.
I use to have two Acclaims ('90 and '92). Both had the 2.5L/3 speed auto. My average fuel economy was 23 mpg. On the highway, lightly loaded and on relatively flat stretches, I could get close to 30 mpg. Once I did average 31 mg. Took the '92 on a cross country road trip, heavily loaded
with wife, 3 kids, luggage, car top carrier and bike rack, and averaged 26 mpg over 4,000 miles. That included flat stretches of I-70 and getting over the Appalachian Mountains through Pennsylvania.

Since the 3 speed only has lockup and not true overdrive, I found 60-65 mph to the sweet spot for fuel mileage and making decent time. 55 mph would yield even better fuel mileage. The real sweet spot would be about 40 mph but you would get run over around here if you went that slow.

Kind of miss those cars. The '92 died with 302K on the clock (heater core) and I sold the '90 a few years ago (windshield had a crack). I could have fixed the windshield, but we didn't need three vehicles. In addition to the Acclaim we had my '06 Ram 1500 and a '10 Journey SXT.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,291 Posts
Ultra, I'd use 10w30 [conventional] all year long. I had good luck doing this. You should get 30 mpg highway. About 26 rural. City is hard to judge, especially with the AC on. City mileage was better than my PT. Note that I set my timing about 2 degrees more advanced than the book said. No ping. 65-68 mph seemed to be a happy spot for the car.

They are very good cars [but for the head gaskets]. And roooomy inside.
 

·
Virginia Gentleman
Joined
·
15,021 Posts
I should add, if you put the 2.2L in instead of the 2.5L, the 2.2L will have to work harder at times (that means using more fuel) than a 2.5L would have to, to do the same "work". It may only be a 7 hp difference, but it's still a difference. As I recall, the 2.2L had a 93 hp rating while the 2.5L had a 100 hp rating.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top