Allpar Forums banner

Low Buck Slant Six Race Car

53249 Views 48 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Charrlie_S
I am building a "Low Buck" slant six powered race car. The idea is to see how quick it can go, for the least amount of money, and be something that anyone could basicly copy. Not to be copied exactly, copy the idea, and adjust according to the bargains they find. I started this December 2004


66 Valiant 225 engine, automatic $100.00 Salvage yard
set of V-8 headers in the trunk sold - $50.00
Rings 9.95 E-bay
Main bearings 25.00 E-bay
Rod bearings set 4.25 E-bay
Cam bearings set 5.50 Ebay
Timing set Blue Racer 9.95 E-bay
Gasket Set 24.95
New Crane cam 460 lift 290* dur no cost, traded for a used head, from an engine that was free
Lifters 18.00 E-bay
Oil pump 9.95 E-bay
Headers clifford shorty with pipes 100.00 Parts for sale on a mopar site
Offie intake 65.00 e-Bay
Edelbrock 500 50.00 Private purchase
Nitrous system 100.00 Swap meet
New recon head 99.95 E-bay
Total so far $572.50

Mopar performance dual springs and retainers $134.64 Koller dodge
Spring seat cutter $64.68 Comp Cams
Push rods $12.00 Discontinued stock from a Massey Fergusson tractor dealer on e-bay
PST front end kit $100 Parts for sale section of slantsix.com
NEW TOTAL $883.32


The engine parts were all cleaned with "purple power". All the special tools to build the engine, such as ridge reamer, cyl hone, ring groove cleaner, etc. were "borrowed" from auto zone, with a refundable deposit, except for the cam bearing installer. I have one of my own, but for someone else, that is the only thing, that would have to be farmed out.

Got the cam degreed in. It fell in at 1* advanced at 106 degrees, without haveing to adjust it. Measured my deck hight and cc'ed the head. have to run the numbers, and see what my compression ratio is. Set the head on the block, with checking valve springs, to check valve to piston clearence, and see if I have to cut down the guides, for retainer clearance. Will do that over the weekend. Still need to cut the spring seats for dual springs.

Compression ratio is 8.2 to 8.5
The deck hight is .170-.173 and the head cc's range from 53-56, with a gasket thickness of .021

Well, it looks like the $800 budget is going to take a hit. I completed the cylinder head, but ran into a glitch. This is something novice engine builders most times over look. It has been awhile since I built an engine from scratch, rather then a refresh, and I fell victim, also. A cam needs a matching valve train. My freebe Crane cam, needed dual valve springs. I had planned on using 340 springs and retainers, but they were nowhere near enough tension. I wound up using Mopar performance springs, #P3412068, and retainers #P4529823. Had them in stock, but cost was $134.64.That brings the total to $707.14. Along with this, I had to machine the spring seats for the dual springs. I had the tool on hand, but otherwise this would require the purchase of the tool from Comp cams for $64.68, cutter and arbor, or have a machine shop do the job. I did not cut the valve guides, as there was no interferance, with the retainers at max lift, and I used stock seals, cut down with a sissors, to fit inside the spring. The cutter to cut the guides is $45.99.
The engine is now assembled, on the stand with the intake and headers on for a trial fit.



I have started cleaning surface rust fom the inside of the car, prior to painting.
That is where it is at today 1-11-06 Hope to have it running in time for the memorial day race at South Georgia Motorsports Park
21 - 40 of 49 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Couple of reasons. I run "race" converters, and found it is more difficult to have a converter built with the small splines. By having the converter built with the small crank pilot, and the large splines, gives me more options, since race converter prices start about $400, and go up from there.
1) early engine, early trans with the later front parts.
2) early engine, late trans
3) late engine, with pilot adapter ring, and early trans, with the late front parts.
4) late engine , with the pilot adapter ring, and a late trans.

PS the larger splines are stronger, but should not be an issue with a slant
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Ospho, is a rust converter. I understand it is similar to POR15. It can be purchased in almost any hardware store. Less expensive then POR 15. I have never used POR 15, or Ospho, before, so I can't comment on results.
FYI - POR15 itself is not considered to be a rust converter. The company sells many products - I've used a few of them - and one of these is Metal-Ready, which is a rust neutralizer and metal etcher. However the specific product POR15 is considered to be a Rust Preventative Coating (according to their web-site) ... http://www.por15.com/HOME/tabid/36/Default.aspx

I have used Metal-Ready, POR-15 and Por Patch, and I have found that they work well. But proper application procedure - as with all paint and paint type applications - is very important. You'll see on their site that they have a 4 step system for application.

Just thought this info might be helpful.

~Bill
 
G

·
I second the turbo comment. :) I remember seeing a few websites a while back and recall a twin turbo 225 getting somewhere around 475hp at the rear wheels. I beleive plymouth put em on some of the smaller cars stock back in the late 50's and early 60's. You can get turbo units fairly cheap sometimes at pick-n-pulls and other yards. I had a few other websites about it that told you wich ones to use. I'll do some digging and see if I can find them again.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I second the turbo comment. :) . I beleive plymouth put em on some of the smaller cars stock back in the late 50's and early 60's.
As far as I know, Mopar never used a turbo, untill about 1987, in the 2.2 liter "K" cars. Gm used a turbo on the Corvair, and the Buick "special", and Olds "F-85", in the '60's. My 65 Valiant 170, has a turbo from a Corvair.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,750 Posts
As far as I know, Mopar never used a turbo, untill about 1987, in the 2.2 liter "K" cars. Gm used a turbo on the Corvair, and the Buick "special", and Olds "F-85", in the '60's. My 65 Valiant 170, has a turbo from a Corvair.
Along with the Buick Grand National, some 1984+ Ford Mustang/T'bird 4 cylinder coupes, the 1980 Pontiac Trans Am 301 V8 and a few other RWD Detroit vehicles prior to 1990
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Along with the Buick Grand National, some 1984+ Ford Mustang/T'bird 4 cylinder coupes, the 1980 Pontiac Trans Am 301 V8 and a few other RWD Detroit vehicles prior to 1990
I agree, but I was just refering to the 1960's, in particular, Mopars.

Got a little more work done on the 66 Valiant this week. Painted the 3.91 sure grip 7 1/4 rear, springs, spring plates and installed everthing with all new spring/shackle bushings. I previously had a welder friend come over and repair some rust thru on the left rear frame rail, in exchange for the labor on a rear brake job on his Dodge PU.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Charlie,

How much boost are you wanting to run on the slant? If you have a decent forged piston can you run 10:1 pistons with a turbo or will it burn holes in the tops of the pistons?

I had thought of a hyper pak homemade turbo set up....There have even been homemade manifolds to accept turbo units...I think they are trying to sell them at slant six.org



The turbo off the SVO mustang and the later daytona's had an intercooler on it...I always thought to run a car with turbo and run it wil AC so that the feedback could cool the intercooler... Ideas?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Charlie,

How much boost are you wanting to run on the slant? If you have a decent forged piston can you run 10:1 pistons with a turbo or will it burn holes in the tops of the pistons?

I had thought of a hyper pak homemade turbo set up....There have even been homemade manifolds to accept turbo units...I think they are trying to sell them at slant six.org
The turbo off the SVO mustang and the later daytona's had an intercooler on it...I always thought to run a car with turbo and run it wil AC so that the feedback could cool the intercooler... Ideas?
With my setup I would not run over 9:1, and had been running about 8:1. Some have run 10:1, but it takes a lot more special parts. I have been running TRW forged stock replacement pistons, but just bought a set of Venolia pistons off e-bay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...9835&rd=1,1
Hopefully I can increase my boost from about 10-12 lbs to about 20.

Not very good Pics of my turbo setup, http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/schmid.html
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Finally fired the engine. Ran it to break in the cam, set the timing, adj valves, adj carb. Can't believe how good this engine idles. Don't have the tach hookled up yet, but idles about 700-800 rpm, with a 460 lift Crane cam. My other cam (434 lift) will not idle below about 1,000 rpm. Not sure yet, but may have a problem with the trans. Car is still up on jack stands, and I cannot "feel" a 1st to 2nd shift. I can feel the shift to high, or at least a shift to a higher gear, when I move the shifter the high. Tommorow nite I will install a pressure gauge to the kickdown servo pressure port, and see if I have pressure. Still have to install the battery hold down, tach, seat, seat belts, mount the shifter, and some wireing.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Had a OOOPPS, today. Running the engine some more, and varying the rpm, and the fan belt came off. Then I hear a wirring/ringing sound. The next thing I know the outer ring of the crank damper, runs over both my feet, and heads out the door. :wub: . So had the remove the radiator, and install a new damper. Looking at the bright side, nothing else got damaged, and better for it to happen now, then at the races.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AC TC

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Pulled the radiator, and installed a NOS damper. Fired the motor back up, and brought the revs up in gear, with the brakes applied. Ran through the gears, and could feel the shifts in all gears. I guess it is ok, just couldn't feel the shift with a 3,000 converter and no load. Corrected a few small leaks, and did a little wireing. Lowered it from the jack stands and backed it out of the garage, under it's own power. She saw daylite for the first time in over a year. Still have a lot to do, will keep posting.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Trailered the car to town, today, Got a front end alignment, and put it on the scale. 2,740 with me in it. Will probably be between 50 and 100 lbs heavier, when done. Real lightweight compared to my Cuda.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Didn't have time to add any posts. Trying to get the car ready for the Mopar Southern Nationals, at Valdosta, Ga. on Memorial Day weekend. Took some more weight out. Removed the bench seat, and front bumper. Added a aluminum "race" seat. Should be under 2700 lbs, with driver. Took it to the track (Gainesville, Fl) just to get it thru tech (not ready to race yet) Had a trans pan leak. Installed a Mopar deep pan kit, with the new style reusable gasket. No more leak. Had to order a new lap belt. My old RCI 3 inch is out dated by 1 year. I could use a stock 1966 OEM belt and be legal (someting doesn't make sense, here). Had to do a few other minor things the tech inspector wanted, but no big deal. Went to Gainesville on Wed night, for a test. Got there late after waiting till after 6:00 pm for UPS to deliver my new belt. Only got 1 run. I was hoping to get into the 15's on motor the first time out, so a 15.663 at 81.58 right out of the box was very satisfying. The MPH was down a little for the ET, but should be able to help that with tuning.

Went to the Georgia race, Wth some tuning the best run on motor only, was:
60 ft....1.935
1/8 mile.. 9.349
mph.. 70.79
1/4 mile..15.007
mph.. 85.36

Made 1 nitrous pass. Little disapointed, thought it should have been quicker. I did miss second gear, went from 1st to 3rd.

60 ft....1.854
1/8 mile...8.706
mph... 77.26
1/4 mile... 13.928
mph....91.91
 
G

·
I wish I would have went to SGMP to see your car run. I'm in Tallahassee, just about to start working on my Valiant. You should check out www.tallahasseemusclecar.com, lots of guys from here go up to SGMP all the time. I used to have the owners rent the track out to our two big car clubs in Tallahassee for private track days.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Haven't had time to do much racing. Just a quick update, on performance. Dec 8, 2007 Gainesville, Fl.
60 ft time 1.797
1/8 mile 8.457 at 77.74 mph
1/4 mile 13.648 at 92.05 mph
Had the car weighed at a certified truck scale on the way home. 2500 lbs with about 5 gal gas. Add 190 lbs for driver and safety clothing, puts the total at 2690 lbs.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I going to try a "taller" tire on the car. It has a 3.91 SG 7 1/4 rear, with a 9x22-13 slick. Engine doesn't want to pull much past 6,000 rpm. So, installed long wheel studs, in the axles, and put on a set of 6x26x15 slick on slotted mags. I got the wheels with new 8x28x15 slicks, for $50 each, but the tires were too wide to clear the fenders. So I "borrowed the tires from my Cuda. Hope to try it out on Wed nite.

I

PS: had the car to the paint shop last week. Just a quick, cheap spray, to get it all one color. Just a "50 foot job", to make it more presentable.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Very nice setup! I'm putting together a slant six Duster, but I'm looking to make it more of a road beast, not a drag. Still a low budget project, though.
Wow, it's a pleasure to meet 'the guy with that turbo'. I stumbled across your turbo setup on www.1962to1965mopar.com a while ago and was really impressed. What sort of turbo is that? What turbos would you suggest for a slant six? Is a 225 a good candidate for a turbo?

On POR 15... I'm painting my floor pan with it, and it's true that application is key. I've had the interior out with one coat of it for the entire winter, because I want to do the second coat right. I don't have access to an indoor shop. :(

Best of luck with your project, I'll be reading eagerly.
-xander
 

· Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Wow, it's a pleasure to meet 'the guy with that turbo'. I stumbled across your turbo setup on www.1962to1965mopar.com a while ago and was really impressed. What sort of turbo is that? What turbos would you suggest for a slant six? Is a 225 a good candidate for a turbo?


-xander
That turbo, is a modified Corvair turbo, built by Rajay. As you read, I did that turbo setup, back in the late 70's, and there are a lot better turbos available, today. I am not up to date on what the best ones are, for a slant. Yes a 225 is a good turbo motor. I still don't have the turbo car running, but I am working on it. It is a mater of time and money. Hopefully later this summer. If you haven't been there, yet, go over to www.slantsix.org, there are some others over there with turbos.
 
21 - 40 of 49 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top