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have you made this repair?

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My 01 developed a interesting clunk I assumed was that PP designed rear, forward lower control arm bushing. So I replaced it.

What I found here in South Florida was that it's cheaper to buy the whole arm (on internet) than to see a $40+ labor bill + $part, at the Machine Shop. That's the crazy reality now.

Clunk is still there but somewhat muted.

I suspect the hidden bolt (installed at factory in frame?) that receives this long bushing bolt is loose and is moving with the big weight transmitted by this part when suspension is stressed. Not alot of movement, but it can be heard as a metal to metal sound.

This is my 3rd lower arm repair, in my 2 cars, in the last few years.
 

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If you purchase the entire LCA and have it replaced, that long bolt for the rear bushing that goes into the floorboard MIGHT be the issue. IIRC, the torque on that thing 180 ft.lb.
 

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You were lucky to get the thing off. The joy of living somewhere warm and relatively dry!

On my 07, on both sides, the rear nut for the LCA (we call it wishbone) bolt broke free of it's cage and the car's floor had to be cut away to weld the nuts down for bolt removal.

It had been an advisory fault on the last 5 years MOTs (roadworthy test here). I guess nobody fancied the job. Several garages here refused the work.

It's much quieter now and feels more precise.
 

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1966 Crown Coupe, 2016 200 S AWD, 1962 Lark Daytona V8.
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Yes, the bushing cushion doesn't seem to separate in warm, dry and salt-free environments.
The bolt that goes into the blind nut in the floor structure has a threadlock on it. It is plated, so it doesn't rust badly.
Don't try to remove it cold. An impact wrench is better than hand tools.
Warming the bolt (not enough to burn the carpet) will soften the threadlock and the bolt should spin out easily.
Once the nut cage breaks and the nut spins free, you are in for trouble.
The floor and surrounding structure is double-walled, high-strength steel panels. If you cut into it, you compromise the crash integrity of the frame structure and open yourself to possible liability.
I instead have drilled a hole near where the nut would be and wedged a punch tip in to try and hold the nut still. I pull the carpet back and use more heat and solvent.
After doing these a few times and getting procedure, they aren't so bad.
Check toe-in when done.
 

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What I have found, with the new premium Moog control arms with the new "problem solver" rear spherical bushing, is that they are junk. It may be that I got three bad sets of them, but I don't think I want to waste any more time on a fourth. With two sets, the rear bushing clunked almost out of the box. It wasn't quiet for long. Virtually immediately they were clunking. The third set got me to about 10K km before they too clunked. You can't tell or feel the play when they are on the car. The movement is so slight you really cannot see it or feel it when prying on them in the car. But removed from the car and manipulating that rear bushing, in your fingers, you can feel the small bit of play. I had replaced everything on the car from entire struts to sway bar bushings, to completely eliminating the front sway bar to try to get rid of the clunk. I didn't think the new arms could be the cause. Well, for me, they were.

They do have a lifetime warranty and I could keep buying them and returning the defective ones to Rock Auto, at their cost, but, a few months ago, and maybe still, Rock Auto had a wholesale clearout of factory style rear bushings of some brand; I think Mevotech. I think they were $1 or $2 each. I bought several and so far on one PT I have removed the arms and replaced the problem solver maker spherical bushings and finally have the joy of a non clunking front end. The second PT will get done soon too, now that the weather has cooled off a bit.
 
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