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Discussion Starter #21
Does it crank but not fire, or does it just click when you turn the key?

This reads like the bulkhead connector on your firewall may have come loose. You might first make sure the battery terminals and posts are clean.
There is No power to the ignition system. No power to the fuel pump, no cranking, nothing. Battery is good and clean.
 

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Try pushing in your bulkhead connector and see if that helps. This seemed to be a problem on many '80's vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Do you have power at the ignition switch heavy guage Rd and Pk wires?
Always diagnose first.
I guess I would have to drop the steering column again to access the switch, but my guess is no since no power is getting to the fuel pump or starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Try pushing in your bulkhead connector and see if that helps. This seemed to be a problem on many '80's vehicles.
I'm not familiar with the bulkhead connector but I looked at the parts catalog. Still don't know what or where it is.
 

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A group of wires going into a small plastic, or maybe taped, connector on your firewall. Usually on the driver's side. I had an '86 C10 with a similar problem, and had to push in the bulkhead connector every 6 months or so.
 

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If you were working on the speedometer, something could have loosened from the connector on the interior side. You mentioned fuses; does your car have an under-hood fuse box? If so, this should be where you find the fuel pump relay, which should be the same as the other relays, if you want to swap. But given everything else that's won't work (radio, turn signals, wipers), I doubt that's the problem. Someone here might try to find you a wiring diagram so you can diagnose where you're not getting current.

You already mentioned the PCM. When I had a problem with the one on my Dakota, it was the connector that sometimes loosened, not the PCM itself, and when it did, several items wouldn't work. The metal part where the screw inserted came loose, and I had to JB Weld it back in. And the plastic snap on one side broke, so I occasionally had to push that side in.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Do you have power at the ignition switch heavy guage Rd and Pk wires?
Always diagnose first.
I tested the ign switch with no power and found no shorts in the switch (resistance). I reconnected the wires and tested a combo of power on (22) and then off (20). However the ign cylinder was quirky. I could play with the key and show power or no power in any position including the Accessory position. And at times the current was erratic.

The radio still doesn't work regardless.

Not sure if I was testing correctly. If not let me know how.
 

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Last year, I had to return a faulty ignition cylinder to AutoZone. Its replacement worked, but their quality is sometimes suspect. I think you reported buying a switch from them, but not a cylinder. You might go elsewhere for the cylinder, if it needs replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Last year, I had to return a faulty ignition cylinder to AutoZone. Its replacement worked, but their quality is sometimes suspect. I think you reported buying a switch from them, but not a cylinder. You might go elsewhere for the cylinder, if it needs replacing.
Well, I think I'm narrowing it down. From the pics earlier I think it shows there is power to the ignition switch. The problem with he instrument cluster (engine temp gauge specifically) moving whenever the car light switch was turned on was just a faulty gauge. I'll know in 30 minutes when I reinstall the cluster for sure after trying a different CBoard and fuel/temp/battery cluster.

I have already bought a cylinder and had the wheel off but I couldn't go any further since I don't have the specific steps to remove everything in the way. I wasn't sure how to remove the metal wheel and then the plastic turn stuff and did not want to guess.

If anyone can point me to a set of instructions that would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I actually watched that one last night along with several others. Unfortunately mine looks a bit more complicated and without easy access to screws or any other secret fasteners for disassembly.

Well I have tried everything the past two days and still no joy. Only things left to do is change the cylinder and starter although I'm fairly certain it isn't the starter.

Clean battery- didn't need but did it
changed ignition switch
tried a different PMC
tried a different EEC
Checked all fuses
checked coil for any short
changed out bad engine temp gauge
tried a different instrument mother board (so to speak)
tried a different light switch
banged the starter a few times
banged my head a few times
watched videos on how to change cylinder
changed the battery negative cable connector
unplugged and reset the neutral safety switch
 

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Much of what you tried would not affect the starting system. It might keep the car from starting if it cranked, but won't keep it from cranking.
Have you tried jumping the neutral safety switch connection to ground? Usually this can be done on the relay under hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Much of what you tried would not affect the starting system. It might keep the car from starting if it cranked, but won't keep it from cranking.
Have you tried jumping the neutral safety switch connection to ground? Usually this can be done on the relay under hood.
tell me how.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
It just seems odd that nothing comes on, as far as starting, when nothing really changed.

no oil light, engine light, nothing. Other than a few lights, windows, door locks, etc.. nothing else comes about the engine seems to work.
 

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Have you tried jumping the neutral safety switch connection to ground? Usually this can be done on the relay under hood.
tell me how.
In '60's vehicles, it was done by putting a screwdriver between the relay's electrical connections on the firewall (or maybe fender), and touching them briefly. If the starter starts to crank, then the starter is ok. I had a '68 Charger that occasionally wouldn't crank until I touched those connections, then it would crank fine for several days.
 

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Are you certain that no fusible links are melted? They are typically on the driver's side of the car, a little behind the battery.
 
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The starter relay should have one terminal marked G.
If you've got a test wire with alligator clips, just pull the wire off the G terminal and connect the jumper between the G terminal and a good ground.

Note that once you do this, the car can start in any gear. So if this works, don't use it as a permanent solution.
 

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In case you missed it, there's a small connector coming off the positive battery cable.

Its a quick disconnect so cars on the showroom can have the battery disconnected without tools.

Thanks
Randy
 
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