[dc8flyer]

Are you certain that no fusible links are melted? They are typically on the driver's side of the car, a little behind the battery.

I looked but didn't see anything unusual with any of the wires. I could have missed one, not sure.

Anyway, I called the truck of shame and had the car carried to Dodge. Amazing how the car draws attention. One guy came up and wanted to know what was wrong with. I told them and then he told me he wanted to work on it. He even called the service agent to let her know he wanted it. He actually promised he'd have it fix for me and added a promise. He mentioned how he started off working on those cars.

One of the first thigs the tech did was to look at the fusible links for a second so at least we seems knowledgeable.

 

[dc8flyer]

Update:

Car is still at the dealership awaiting help from the expert. I'm still leaning toward the ignition cylinder and HOPE that is all it will be. I was told yesterday that there are only two mechanics left qualified to work on the car so it could be up to a week before anyone actually looks at the car.

I wish I had the knowledge to replace the cylinder myself but I did not want to start tearing down something only to realize that particular screw was holding something else together. But the suspense is killing me. The thought that after all the work and time to get this car running perfect and the possibility of losing this car in the end is like saying good bye to an old friend. I just hope that doesn't happen. At least the mech seemed as determined as I am to get it running. I think a nice bonus is headed his way regardless.

As far as the fusible plugs go, about how many are on the car? When I looked only a couple were obvious and they did not appear distorted. Can you actually tell by the appearance or feel? Or do you have to actually test that particular wire?

Thanks

 

[Bob Lincoln]

There are about 7-8 fusible links on my 84 Daytona.

 

[ImperialCrown]

See post # 3 for fusible link checks.

 

[dc8flyer]

See post # 3 for fusible link checks.

I looked at post 3 but that is one that has been pulled apart I suspect. Just looking at my wires I did not see anything to indicate a problem to that extent or feel any oddities with the link.

I also only found two near the battery area. Maybe its a good thing to know there are a few others hiding somewhere.

 

[dc8flyer]

I found this:

Question is are the seven or so FLinks all independent or in line? If in line all would fail or if independent individual failures?


Description
The page describes how to diagnose and repair fusible links. Fusible links are the electrical system's last line of defense against electrical fires. They distribute power to the main parts of the electrical system and carry loads far greater than any automotive fuse can handle.


Diagnosis
If your vehicle is an 1989 or earlier model, then you probably have hypalon wire fusible links. These look just like regular wires, except the insulation is made out of a special, flame-proof material. The easiest way to test them is to tug on them. A blown link will stretch like a rubber band. The diagram below shows a typical A1 distribution (using hypalon wires, based off of 1987 configuration).

 

[Bob Lincoln]

My 84 has the fusible links fanning out as shown above, from what has been dubbed an "octopus" type of connection.

 

[dc8flyer]

My car is back in the garage and working.

There were two fusible plugs that went bad. I have no idea how, when, or where that happened but what a relief.

There are a few anomalies that I'm keeping an eye on. The starter was intermittent at first but I haven't had any issues for half a day now. I reset the computer and tightened the battery cables (a little loose). A couple of bulbs were out for some reason. Left front door and back window brake light. All replaced and working now.

The instrument center cluster has one light I thought would/was working before but isn't now. The top light OIL doesn't seem to light up now. I thought it use to when starting the car. To the right is another OIL light as well. Not exactly sure of the difference between the two now thatI'm paying attention to them. I changed out the one light in the center but it made no difference.

The fuel gauge is now sloppy. It keeps track of the fuel but a turn, acceleration, etc., makes the needle slosh back and forth. Didn't do that before so maybe it was damaged.

The Power Loss Light came on after the mechanic was checking the starter. Of course it did not act up when he was looking at it bt after I left the PL light came on. It was a 24 TPS-low or high. I tried resetting the computer again but it would not go away so I tried something I use to do with this car years ago when weird things would happen The PL light was affecting the drivability so as I was driving I turned off and then on the ignition key quickly. And as it has in the past cleared the PL light and code 24. So far it is working and no return 24 code.

Don't know why this works for weird issues like this but it does.