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Hi, its been a while since I've had a Chrysler product, but you were all very helpful last time, so i'm back.
Just bought a 98 Chrysler Sebring convertible with 2.5L Mitsubishi v6 and I'm racking my brain trying to figure out best coolant for it.
It currently has "green", which could either be silicate-phosphate IAT, or non-silicate like Peak. I plan on having coolant exchange machine run 10 gal of distilled water throught it til clear; then change water pump fill with full strength _____ coolant and test freeze point/adjust mix.
Owners manual says "ethylene-glycol with silicate inhibitors" (IAT?), but I'm not sure I trust manual. It doesn't seem to differentiate between an American i4 & Japanese v6. It completely neglects to mention timing belt interval for v6, lol.
I checked my friends Mitsu, also filled with unk green & vague manual states "ethylene glycol" only.
I know I don't want OAT; already have an S-10 with erroded intake manifold gasket headache. Also unsure if Chrysler used dissolveable gaskets, or brass/copper radiator or thermostat, etc. So without a very great reason, please leave OATs off the table.
So IAT vs HOAT, and best brand i can find anywhere, not just dealership please. I want to understand why I'm choosing 1, adds peace of mind.
Priorities:
1. Does not eat Japanese water pumps! I don't like fwd timing belt work nor cost since don't wanna do it more than needed.
2. Protects aluminum engines great. Anything to keep head gaskets alive as long as possible & not eat engine long term.
I don't care about change interval, I stay on top of maintenance. Coolant price doesn't matter in long run, but easy availability helps a lot.
Mitsubishi dealer recommended "Blue". I'm guessing Zerex Asian blue, but haven't found specs on it yet for what it actually chemically is.
I saw 2.5L overcooling thread here state HOAT a few times, but no details why exactly.
I'm not in a rush. I wanna take time to take good care of this car so it lasts until I'm bored with it, not gone by an expensive death.
Please give details on why 1 coolant type protects difficult to repair parts better than the other, and what brand you recommend.
Thanks, J
Just bought a 98 Chrysler Sebring convertible with 2.5L Mitsubishi v6 and I'm racking my brain trying to figure out best coolant for it.
It currently has "green", which could either be silicate-phosphate IAT, or non-silicate like Peak. I plan on having coolant exchange machine run 10 gal of distilled water throught it til clear; then change water pump fill with full strength _____ coolant and test freeze point/adjust mix.
Owners manual says "ethylene-glycol with silicate inhibitors" (IAT?), but I'm not sure I trust manual. It doesn't seem to differentiate between an American i4 & Japanese v6. It completely neglects to mention timing belt interval for v6, lol.
I checked my friends Mitsu, also filled with unk green & vague manual states "ethylene glycol" only.
I know I don't want OAT; already have an S-10 with erroded intake manifold gasket headache. Also unsure if Chrysler used dissolveable gaskets, or brass/copper radiator or thermostat, etc. So without a very great reason, please leave OATs off the table.
So IAT vs HOAT, and best brand i can find anywhere, not just dealership please. I want to understand why I'm choosing 1, adds peace of mind.
Priorities:
1. Does not eat Japanese water pumps! I don't like fwd timing belt work nor cost since don't wanna do it more than needed.
2. Protects aluminum engines great. Anything to keep head gaskets alive as long as possible & not eat engine long term.
I don't care about change interval, I stay on top of maintenance. Coolant price doesn't matter in long run, but easy availability helps a lot.
Mitsubishi dealer recommended "Blue". I'm guessing Zerex Asian blue, but haven't found specs on it yet for what it actually chemically is.
I saw 2.5L overcooling thread here state HOAT a few times, but no details why exactly.
I'm not in a rush. I wanna take time to take good care of this car so it lasts until I'm bored with it, not gone by an expensive death.
Please give details on why 1 coolant type protects difficult to repair parts better than the other, and what brand you recommend.
Thanks, J