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Discussion Starter #1
Am thinking part of the problem I am having trying to get my 84 Reliant (2.2) to idle properly. I have installed a filter between the canister and the inlet to prevent charcoal debris from entering the carb bowl. Carb is rebuilt; done by professional builder. Previous carbs have operated beautifully.

Would welcome advice and help from someone who has experienced problems or suggestions.

Much Appreciated!!
 

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. . . Carb is rebuilt; done by professional builder. Previous carbs have operated beautifully. . . . Would welcome advice and help from someone who has experienced problems or suggestions. . . .
You are assuming a lot that the carburetor is set properly because it was done "professionally". Hopefully all the passageways are clean. Attached document lists troubleshooting tips for 1984 FWD Chrysler vehicles with carburetors.

Driveability Issue Carburetor Vehicles 1984.gif


You need to check that the internal mechanical parts such as valves and pistons are still in good condition. I would suggest running a compression test and determine if all cylinders have the potential to contribute equally for a smooth running engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the list. I'll check it out.
 

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Many add a fuel filter between the canister and carb but that doesn't cause issues.

Your problem lies elsewhere.

Thanks
Randy
 

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The Mixture control solenoid has nothing to do with the idle fuel metering.
It comes into use at closed loop, part-throttle operation.
 

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These were problematic when new. The swap to TBI in later years was a blessing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Many add a fuel filter between the canister and carb but that doesn't cause issues.

Your problem lies elsewhere.

Thanks
Randy
Randy: Give me some ideas on how to proceed. Two rebuilt carbs, same issue. Some has said the mounting plate is warped, or bottom of carb is warped. Problem just suddenly developed. Car ran like a dream, then would not idle correctly and no power under a load. Appreciate your knowledge and insight.
 

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Slowly close choke when idling warm to see if it smooths out any.

Then perform any vacuum leak tests you can in any way you can.

Try propane, starting fluid, WD40, brake clean, oil squirt can etc.

Check every vacuum hose from carb/manifold vacuum source.

Then, perform the secret Milwaukee carb test procedure.

Rev Engine over 3,000 RPM and hold choke plate closed.

Open choke just before Engine stalls, let idle, free rev, repeat.

Increased Engine vacuum might pull crud from carb circuits.

Sudden problem is often a vacuum leak.

Loss of power is often internal.

Or retarded cam/ign timing.

Thanks
Randy
 

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WOW !!!

That's a big help, so gallant of you to share your wisdom.

I'm not sure anyone else even knows this well hidden secret.

ATTENTION ALL: TBI WAS A BLESSING

Thanks
Randy




These were problematic when new. The swap to TBI in later years was a blessing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Slowly close choke when idling warm to see if it smooths out any.

Then perform any vacuum leak tests you can in any way you can.

Try propane, starting fluid, WD40, brake clean, oil squirt can etc.

Check every vacuum hose from carb/manifold vacuum source.

Then, perform the secret Milwaukee carb test procedure.

Rev Engine over 3,000 RPM and hold choke plate closed.

Open choke just before Engine stalls, let idle, free rev, repeat.

Increased Engine vacuum might pull crud from carb circuits.

Sudden problem is often a vacuum leak.

Loss of power is often internal.

Or retarded cam/ign timing.

Thanks
Randy

Randy: Great suggestions!! You Rock!!!
 
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