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Mod to reduce engine bay heat for PT Cruiser Turbo's

17K views 56 replies 14 participants last post by  rockdoc 
#1 ·
Check out this great link:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msFMU8Kw_v8


This very smart man shows you how to modify the engine bay sealing surface to let the hot air escape from the engine bay. I did the mod and checked it with a digital thermometer gun and it does help, you can feel the hot air escaping. If Chrysler did this when building the car maybe the computer would last longer. What a stupid place to put the PCM 6" away from the turbo.

I'm having problems with my 2004 PT Cruiser Turbo Touring. First got P0032 and P0038 and car stall out on the highway. Pretty scary when your car dies on the highway, thought it was going to be my last day on earth. Waited about 10 minutes and it started back up and drove home.

Changed both upstream and downstream O2 sensors with NTK (NGK) sensors. Check and cleaned all grounds, by battery box on fender well, and both sides of grounds from struts to under fender well. Outside my garage the engine just died while idling. Showed the same codes again. I just ordered a reman PCM from AllComputer and hope that it cures the problem.

The car was previously owned by my 90 year old father and only has 47K miles on it. I love the style of the car, and always thought Chrysler were quality cars...now I know better.
 
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#3 ·
Check out this great link:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msFMU8Kw_v8


This very smart man shows you how to modify the engine bay sealing surface to let the hot air escape from the engine bay. I did the mod and checked it with a digital thermometer gun and it does help, you can feel the hot air escaping. If Chrysler did this when building the car maybe the computer would last longer. What a stupid place to put the PCM 6" away from the turbo.

I'm having problems with my 2004 PT Cruiser Turbo Touring. First got P0032 and P0038 and car stall out on the highway. Pretty scary when your car dies on the highway, thought it was going to be my last day on earth. Waited about 10 minutes and it started back up and drove home.

Changed both upstream and downstream O2 sensors with NTK (NGK) sensors. Check and cleaned all grounds, by battery box on fender well, and both sides of grounds from struts to under fender well. Outside my garage the engine just died while idling. Showed the same codes again. I just ordered a reman PCM from AllComputer and hope that it cures the problem.

The car was previously owned by my 90 year old father and only has 47K miles on it. I love the style of the car, and always thought Chrysler were quality cars...now I know better.
A couple of years ago I got a reman PCM for my PT from the same source.

It was truly plug-n-play and I've had no issues with it. :cool:
 
#5 ·
This mod sounds like a great idea. I'll modify mine asap as I've already replaced the computer once because of those codes and I'm sure it failed from the under hood heat. I've already baked several sets of windshield washer nozzles to a crisp ( literally ! ) Following the same process would it make sense to make the same mod directly above the computer ?
I got two reman computers from a place in Florida (this was about two years ago) and they were worse than my original which was throwing the codes. I ended up having a brand new computer installed at the dealer and having them flash it. Haven't had a problem since. Odd thing though, even though the bad computer was throwing the codes the car still ran perfectly. So what do you think about opening up another section of that seal area ?
 
#6 ·
Aloha George,

After checking the BBB Complaints for CarComputerExchange, I canceled my order with them and sent my computer to SIA Electronics. They just received it today, so time will tell. Now I have my fingers crossed that CCE refunds all my money, from complaints read they like to keep as much as they can.

As far as creating a vent above the computer, thinking about it, I wouldn't do it as the chimney effect will cause the hot air to go by the computer. The way the guy in the video does it makes sense, venting away from the computer.
 
#9 ·
This is all based on the assumption that the computer is at fault and that a failure is heat-related, and that that heat is delivered from the engine compartment. Too many assumptions and not enough proper diagnostic work.
 
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#14 ·
Don't be surprised if you get a report back that your old PCM cannot be repaired. ;)

I have heard of several people that have sent PCM's in to these "repair service" places only to be told later that the PCM could not be repaired and they would need a different one.

Aloha 06PTElectricBlue,

Just got a call from SIA Electronics today. They said my PCM checkout okay and were shipping it out today. I also asked them to disable the SKIM and the guy on the phone said they did. They charged me $89 for the checkout and return shipment. Hopefully, it will be okay, as I removed the immobilizer unit today. Just want to remove as many possible potential problems. I will report back when I get the pcm installed.
 
#19 ·
I finally bought a pcm from Myckeee and my problem was solved. I had him disable the SKIM, so now I just use a regular key and keep a spare in the wallet just in case. The only drawback is with the SKIM disabled you get a tiny red light glowing in the center of the L gauge cluster witch doesn't bother me at all.

CarComputer Exchange is trying to rip me for $508, still haven't received my refund on my canceled order. SIA Electronics also is another loser, said my computer tested ok, but in fact the computer is bad and replacing it with MycKeee's pcm proved it. I would definitely stay away from both of these companies.

I don't think any of these Internet PCM companies actually repair computers. I think they just grab another used one and send it out and hope for the best.
 
#18 ·
That's cool, Don. His wife works at the local hospital and he pretty much sits on his butt or goes to the beach. He's gotten so fat and lazy, that he doesn't even go hiking in the mountains with his ONLY child. A son who loves hiking.
 
#23 ·
This is all based on the assumption that the computer is at fault and that a failure is heat-related, and that that heat is delivered from the engine compartment. Too many assumptions and not enough proper diagnostic work.
I'd say it's a fairly safe bet that it's the under hood heat on these turbo cars that's causing these computer issues.
Various "false" 0032,0035 codes being set seem to be the norm yet there's no degradation whatsoever of the performance of the engine. It get's super hot back there including the PCM which is only a few inches away from the turbo housing. These failures seem to occur when the mileage gets in the 100K range.
The crystalization of the washer nozzles is another indicator of high heat. I'm on my third set of nozzles. These things snap like dry pasta !
Just thinking that maybe simply removing the entire rear piece of engine compartment weatherstrip would also promote airflow out of the engine compartment.
 
#24 ·
I'd say it's a fairly safe bet that it's the under hood heat on these turbo cars that's causing these computer issues.
Various "false" 0032,0035 codes being set seem to be the norm yet there's no degradation whatsoever of the performance of the engine. It get's super hot back there including the PCM which is only a few inches away from the turbo housing. These failures seem to occur when the mileage gets in the 100K range.
The crystalization of the washer nozzles is another indicator of high heat. I'm on my third set of nozzles. These things snap like dry pasta !
Just thinking that maybe simply removing the entire rear piece of engine compartment weatherstrip would also promote airflow out of the engine compartment.
Aloha George,

You got a good idea. The way I did it was to create a "chimney effect", but maybe your way is better as you can always just put the weather stripping back in without any breaks. The whole idea is getting excess heat out of the engine compartment and anything is better than nothing. You can shoot a digital heat thermometer against the windshield to see what the difference in temperature is which gives you an idea on how much heat is escaping.

To me PCM's should not be in the engine compartment. My daughter had a honda civic and the computer was in the footwell on the passenger's side, far cooler place for it.
 
#26 ·
The location of the PCM in the PT Cruiser is positioned in such a way that it's a heat sink for the turbo. No way it gets any ventilation in that location. There's so little room in the PT engine compartment. They should have mounted it behind the grille ! Oh, and have used metal washer nozzles !
 
#28 ·
The location of the PCM in the PT Cruiser is positioned in such a way that it's a heat sink for the turbo. No way it gets any ventilation in that location. There's so little room in the PT engine compartment. They should have mounted it behind the grille ! Oh, and have used metal washer nozzles !
This is a mod that Handy_Cruiser did to his PT when he put a custom hood on his, but this is where the washer nozzles should have been mounted, on the cowl panels, the hood would look much sleeker and smoother and they wouldn't be cooked from the engine bay heat :cool:



 
#27 ·
It's too bad these cars are worth so little now. Between the difficulty and expense of replacing the timing belt and the related components as well as the failure rate and the cost of the PCMs it doesn't make economic sense for the average owner to fix these terrific little cars. The recommended timing belt change interval of 102K miles and the cost involved in changing it dooms these cars to simply be driven until they stop.
Unless you're a competent DIY person where you have the ability and patience to fix it yourself, having a good shop do a timing belt job at 102K is just not worth it.
It seems that as you pass around 120K miles all sorts of repairs will be imminent if they haven't been done already. Timing belt, water pump, motor mounts, suspension components, radiator, PCM on turbos, etc. simply add up to make expensive repairs like a timing belt change at 102K a bad idea as there will be additional repair expenses lurking not all that far down the road. Too many systems and components that won't make it to 200K miles.

Now if there was a kit to convert a PT to an electric car that would be the ticket !
 
#29 ·
On the washer nozzles:

Had to replace them on our '10 Journey due to cracking from engine heat. On my '06 Ram 1500 it still has the original nozzles, but they are located on the cowl, not the hood like the Journey and PT.
 
#35 ·
It's funny, at least on my PT GT, the original PCM "failure" appeared to only be the fact that the CEL was lit and there were false codes being set. The car ran perfectly, but would not pass state inspection with the CEL lit. A lot of time and expense replacing O2 sensors and such that weren't bad only to find that the PCM was at fault.
 
#37 ·
I'm sure the under hood heat is responsible for the PCM Failure. Since the false codes being set are rather commonplace it would indicate to me that a certain component or group of components within the PCM are the most vulnerable. No surprise though that other related problems pop up as well. The two remanufactured PCMs I had received not only had the usual bad codes but had other problems as well. They were unusable.

The PCM should have been located way up front ahead of the radiator and the car should have been made with a timing chain and a long life water pump !
 
#38 ·
Aloha George,

Funny thing is my PCM failed @ 47k, maybe the age had something to do with it. After canceling my pcm order from CarComputersExchange when I found out they're a big rip off and then sending my PCM to SIA Electronics and they sent it back saying it checked out ok (when It wasn't), I have little faith in these car computer guys. Before buying from any of these internet ripoff's check these BBB ratings first and then contact Mckyeee and get one that works. I'm going to buy another one from him as a backup as time goes along they will get harder and harder to find good ones.

Doing my timing belt, water pump, tensioner, idler right now and it's a bear to do on a turbo. I will never do it again that's for sure and hope I get it running again as I spent a lot of money on changing suspension, brakes, electronic engine modules, pcm, etc.
 
#39 ·
The later 2.4 as found in the Sebring would have fit right in... timing chain and all! No need to wrap the intake manifold over the head. Plug changes are a breeze. My daughter had this engine in her 07 Sebring. I liked it better than the engine in my 01 PT. Both fuel economy and power were much better too.
 
#41 ·
The later 2.4 as found in the Sebring would have fit right in... timing chain and all! No need to wrap the intake manifold over the head. Plug changes are a breeze. My daughter had this engine in her 07 Sebring. I liked it better than the engine in my 01 PT. Both fuel economy and power were much better too.
Yes the world engine 2.4 is alot better but,,,swapping engines on newer cars are a real bear. The WE 2.4 is totally differant engine, god only know what kind of customzation would be needed.
 
#42 ·
It's too bad these cars are worth so little now. Between the difficulty and expense of replacing the timing belt and the related components as well as the failure rate and the cost of the PCMs it doesn't make economic sense for the average owner to fix these terrific little cars. The recommended timing belt change interval of 102K miles and the cost involved in changing it dooms these cars to simply be driven until they stop.
Unless you're a competent DIY person where you have the ability and patience to fix it yourself, having a good shop do a timing belt job at 102K is just not worth it.
It seems that as you pass around 120K miles all sorts of repairs will be imminent if they haven't been done already. Timing belt, water pump, motor mounts, suspension components, radiator, PCM on turbos, etc. simply add up to make expensive repairs like a timing belt change at 102K a bad idea as there will be additional repair expenses lurking not all that far down the road. Too many systems and components that won't make it to 200K miles.

Now if there was a kit to convert a PT to an electric car that would be the ticket !

Actually there were working electric PTs made and they functioned fine.

They made the cover of THE CRUISER QUARTERLY magazine back in our PTs heyday.








Jerry
 
#43 ·
You have to replace the entire hood to get that look.

He found a hood on a PT in Chicago, drove up there from Arkansas to pick it up, brought it back, had it painted and put it on his PT, it's a real good look :cool:



He also added a Chrysler rear spoiler to his 'vert


There have been many attempts made to release engine heat via the hood over the years. They all worked to one degree (degree --- get it --- that's a joke son) or another. Some worked very well, like the louvered hoods below. Of course on rainy days there was an obvious drawback in this configuration. You've got to admit though, this looks really cool.:cool:






Jerry
 

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#44 ·
The hood that Handy has on his vert is the highly valued SUNCOST CREATIONS hood. It looked great and if you had the optional "AIR EXTRACTOR' kit, it actually did release some of the engine compartment heat.

This is SAKI's PT from over at THE CREW




It released the heat out of the rear of the hood out onto the bottom of the windshield.
Jerry
 
#49 ·
These are the two extractors I installed on my PT.

Can you guess what car they came from?

By the way they do work. I ought to know, I drilled around two hundred 9/64th inch holes in each of the two pieces.









Jerry

In answer to my question above, my hood extractors are from the hood of a Saturn Sky.



I always liked the Sky and the Pontiac Slostice.

Jerry
 
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