[Donnie 3.0]

As we've recently been relegated to the "Product Review" section, maybe we can get our own section back if we post more, so here goes....

1) Recently, I was in an auto parts store and saw a roll of "carbon fiber" decal for $10. The roll was 6" x 6'. Imagine how long that would last using it for trim on plastic or die cast models.

2) Pin Striping! Yeah, saw it at the auto parts store...

3) A buddy gave me 10 or 12 blank VIN plates, that are easy to cut and shape, but still stiff enough to use for lip spoilers, wings, etc. Any thin, stiff metal would work.

Please feel free to add any tips you might have... NEXT!

 

[pug-man]

It is amazing some of the work that can be done on models. On some of the 'more active' diecast forums, the guys on there can do phenomenal stuff with some everyday objects. Not including myself. The most modifications that I do involve paint.

Then there's the whole wiring/lighting of the models, too......but you said you were looking for tips.....










My biggest tip, is EBAY.!!!!!

 

[Donnie 3.0]

It is amazing some of the work that can be done on models. On some of the 'more active' diecast forums, the guys on there can do phenomenal stuff with some everyday objects. Not including myself. The most modifications that I do involve paint.

Then there's the whole wiring/lighting of the models, too......but you said you were looking for tips.....

My biggest tip, is EBAY.!!!!!

I like your Biggest Tip! *laughs*

Paint can be a good modifier. I did a 1:18 Karmen Ghia from stock green paint to flat black and modified the interior, wheels and engine bay. It came out really well, I thought.
More recently, I did a 1:24 Cobra from stock blue to gloss black and de-chromed the body.
Currently, I'm doing a 1:24 2006 Mustang GT, but haven't decide which way I want to take it.
All the above are die cast.

 

[Donnie 3.0]

I've been buying these 1:24 2006 Mustang GT DIY die cast kits at a local craft store for about $11 (discounted) and building them different ways. For my latest, I used a dremel cut off wheel to make a targa top out of the coupe. The roof cut came out really well and, while I'm still in the painting phase (after stripping the original paint and priming the body), I expect the completed model to come out well, too. Just another way to modify models....

 

[Donnie 3.0]

KICKS THE FORUM!

Another way to modify your models is to color highlight the gauges. If you get "Turn Signal Amber" or "Stop Light Red" transparent type paint, you can drop some paint into the gauge face and when it drys, it looks like your gauges are back-lit yellow or red. You can probably find other colors in transparent type paint, but these were the two that I had and I kinda like the red look.

 

[Donnie 3.0]

The model that I made into a targa top came out really well. I ended up painting it orange, but the seats are still red, which was the stock color. I'll probably re-paint the seats to match the exterior. I also bought two 1967 Mustang models and did a before and after build on them. On the "before" car, I roughed up the paint with sandpaper, pulled off some of the chrome, painted on rust, (purposefully) broke the trunk lid mounts, dirtied up the interior and engine and generally made it a barn find-type car. On the "after" car, I built it stock, but tried to enhance what I could over the stock DIY build kit. Both came out well.

I guess I need to take pictures, but I don't know how to post 'em... or where for that matter.

Any tips on posting pics??

 

[Harey]

Thought I'd jump in on here, I modified a plastic model of a 98 Ford Explorer 1:24 scale. Wheels from a BMW Z8, rear bumper from an NSX model (fit perfectly I might add), and put a trunk spoiler from a Saleen Mustang. Theres other various parts from various cars, repainted it a metallic flake dark green, not quite happy with it though, just haven't been able to touch it in a while.

 

[Donnie 3.0]

Hey Benny. Nice to see someone post here besides me I think what you did is called "kit bashing", at least from the modeling magazines I've read. Did you plan to modify the Explorer or did it just happen? What aren't you happy with? The paint job or the model? That's a good mix of parts for one model. Ya got any other models??

Thanks for jumping in!

 

[Harey]

it was kinda planned, but not too heavily, I did it a number of years ago, I'm not really happy with the grill, and the paint on some spots has bubbles, and runs., and I put in a sunroof that goes back to the 2nd row of seats, and used too thin of plexiglass on it. and some pictures just to give you an idea.

 

[Donnie 3.0]

I dig the spoiler on the back, the quad exhaust and what I can see of the wheels. I like your base, too. Thanks for the pictures.

 

[Donnie 3.0]

New Tip:

I'm doing a plastic model that had chrome wheels, but I wanted flat black wheels. Since the "chrome" doesn't take too well to paint, I was looking for a way to remove the chrome. I used some MEAN GREEN cleaner (NOT Simple Green) in a bucket and it took the chrome off in about an hour. I put enough Mean Green into a small bucket to cover the wheels and let them "soak" for an hour and used an old toothbrush to brush the chrome off. Then I rinsed the Mean Green off and let air dry. I haven't painted the wheels yet, but the Mean Green sure worked well.

 

[Donnie 3.0]

Another New Tip: (although this isn't actual model building)

I was in Toys-R-Us and saw some accessories for Tech Deck skateboarding models/toys. Some of the accessories are usable for model dioramas, such as mailboxes/newspaper racks, park benches and those concrete barriers you see in construction areas. They'd probably be better sized for 1:18 scale, but might work on 1:24 scale models.

Another New Tip #2:

I bought some rub-on transfers for pine car racers for one of my built-it-yourself die cast cars and they really turned out well. I especially liked the transfers on the barn find race car. You can rub only half the transfer on if you want to give the car a weathered or old car look.

Have a good weekend!

 

[Donnie 3.0]

Dry Brushing! - You can use a technique called "dry brushing" to highlight your models with rust, dirt, oily residue or weathering. Just let the paint almost dry or paint enough paint off the brush and before you dip the brush back into the bottle. Then dab, spot or brush the paint on the model. It can be used on the underside of the model to show road dirt, rust, etc. or on the body to show weathering. The more you do it, the better it looks, but don't go overboard on it.

I really need to take some pictures.

What's the easiest way to post pictures on here??

 

[UN4GTBL]

I use photobucket, but there are many services available.

 

[Donnie 3.0]

Thanks! I'll check 'em out.

 

[Donnie 3.0]

Recently, we bought one of those pre-fabricated sheds and we ran electricity to it, insulated it and put up dry wall.
What does this have to do with modeling, you ask?

After stripping and cutting the wiring to fit, the cut offs make great exhaust pipes, roll bars 'n' cages, brush guards, shock springs, all kinda things!
I've got both aluminum and copper wiring. If you leave the rubber sleeve on the wire, you have red, black and white for your roll cage or whatever.

 

[Donnie 3.0]

Washers! - No, not the washer/dryer type washer, but the nut and bolt washers.
On some of the die-cast models I build, I'll use a washer to keep the rear wheels from going all the way on to give it a wider stance in the rear.
As an added benefit, the washers look like brake discs.

 

[dartman1965]

A cut up soda or beer can makes a good easy metal for model modifications.

 

[Donnie 3.0]

Never thought of that, dartman. Guess I'll have to drink more beer! - Thanks